Owners Chat (with pics!): Honda NC700X

I will say.

I was noticing that you can potentially literally lock yourself out of your motorcycle. Open the storage compartment, remove the key, rummage around in the compartment, lose your key in there, close the lid, and WTF.

I was thinking that the other day...but hasn't that always been the case with any storage on bikes? Most only require the key to open the compartment, and once you've unlocked it, they key can come out w/ the compartment still open, like underseat storage. It's definitely possible...each of us just has to be mindful to leave the key in while the compartment is open.

The flipside of that is also true...if you leave the key in while digging through the compartment, you could forget to remove the key after you walk away from your bike. Did that my 2nd day at my new job...went to leave at the end of the day, and thought I had lost my keys. Talked to security desk, and someone saw my keys still stuck in the scooter underseat storage lock, pulled them out, and turned them in. So luckily no stolen scooter...just hurt pride.

That's why I like dduelin's solution. If that key gets dropped into the compartment...no biggie cause it's not your ignition key. Also, if you walked away while that was still in, it doesn't really call attention to itself to a passerby.

I had a test ride on the NC700X yesterday. Nice bike, but I was dismayed to learn how cramped the rider's area is on a bike with such a long wheelbase. At 6'3" and 215lbs. I expect to make some mods on any bike I own, but the seat design on this bike seems like a potentially impossible challenge for the after maket guys. The rear portion covers the fuel tank access and essentially is a fixed butt-stop for the rider. Tall riders will need that space if they're gonna ride any distance on the bike. Pity, as I'm in the market for a bike in the niche that this one occupies. That seat feels like a deal breaker for me.

It was nearly a deal breaker for me too, but I went ahead with the purchase and plan to whip that puppy into submission. I bet Russell will take the challenge on. Till then I have an Airhawk cover stuffed with a temperfoam seat pad. It helps, but as you have deduced, the shape is wrong.

Maybe I just don't have enough miles on my bike yet, but I think it's a pretty good fit for my frame: 6'1", 240lbs, 34" inseam. But then again...I'm coming from a scooter seat which doesn't have much padding either...

Beemerphile, thanks for all the pics and info on your project 700x! Enjoy following along on this thread.

The fenda extenda looks good & functional, one of the 1st things I had put on my FJR.

Has anyone installed a radiator guard/screen for the 700x? Think that it would be another good accessory.
Found one here: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/7454/

I hope to stop by the local Honda dealers in the next few days to check out one of these 700's in person.

It's not my original idea just to be clear. They are popular on bikes like the ST1300 that require a key to lock or unlock/remove panniers.

I have one ordered from Twisted Throttle. I got word that it has shipped. I will get a picture up after the install.

Just like on every single scooter.
Never happened to me once though in 5+ years and 50k miles+.

Yeah, it is still wrong and I still can't correct it online. I sent them an email about the problem. I will probably call them again later today.

Mr. Moose,

I got my service manual on the 700x today and I did a little digging on your check engine light. I am assuming that you have the manual transmission model. There is no OBD2 type of hookup to the computer. The DTC's are read like older Hondas by interpreting the flash code. If there is no flash code, but the MIL is on steady, there are a couple of troubleshooting checks between the ECM connector and ground. After that, it says to replace the ECU with a known good one.

ETA 8-18-2012: See post #104 for corrections and more info

i have ridden this baby from istanbul to kazbeq 1600kms no problem at all.Just seat nees some gel my ass still hurts

How do I get the flash codes to come up? Of course as luck would have it, the light hasn't come on all week while riding...go figure.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

The first one to solve the seat riddle should get some kind of prize. It is the one glaring flaw in the bike. Congrats on the bike. It looks nicely equipped and you have a beautiful place to ride.

We had some ergonomics discussions earlier. I saw this link on a different ADV thread and thought I'd repost it here in case anyone wanted to have a look.

http://cycle-ergo.com

If you enter NC700 and CUSTOMIZE you can get the data for the bike with you on it and a number of common modifications. The knee bend on the bike is quite good as a starting point compared to any sport bike and most naked bikes. Since I am 6'-2" I am likely taller than the average Joe or Josie the bike was designed to fit and my ergos were improved with 1" up and 1" back on the bars and 2" up on the seat. I like a 5-6" forward lean for long distance comfort. I plan to make the 2" up on the seat by lowering the pegs one inch and raising the seat one inch with a Russell conversion. Whether I do the rise and setback with Rox style risers or with a replacement handlebar depends on where the numbers end up when I measure radial and ulnar deviation of the wrists. Click on the descriptions in this link to understand the topic of wrist deviation...

http://davisplus.fadavis.com/starkey/Animations/animations.cfm?exercise=rom_31_12&title=Wrist%20(Condyloid%20Joint):%20Radial%20Deviation%20and%20Ulnar%20Deviation

My first reading wasn't exactly correct last night. It looks to be as follows:

1) There is a tester called an "HDS Pocket Tester that can read the codes. It connects to a small DLC connector next to the positive battery terminal under the maintenance lid.

2) There is a jumper you can connect to the DLC connector that connects the brown and green wires (SCS Service Connector part number 070PZ-ZY30100). After connecting the jumper, you can read the first part of the code from the MIL light blink counts. The first part of the code gives the major area only. To get the second part of the code (the detail) you need the HDS pocket tester.

3) If the HDS is not available, the MIL will blink the current DTC (if one exists) when the ignition switch is on, the kill switch is set to run, and the sidestand is down. The MIL light will stay on if the engine speed is over 1,850 RPM or the sidestand is up. There are two type of blinks - long and short. For counting the MIL code, a long blink is (1.3 seconds) is equal to ten short (0.3 second) blinks. So a code of two longs and a short would be MIL code 21.

So, if there is a current problem, the DTC can be read by lowering the side stand with the engine idling in neutral. This will not show a stored but non-current DTC. That can only be done by the first two options. So, next time the MIL light comes on, pull over safely to the side of the road, hit neutral, and drop the sidestand. Read the code count.

BTW, if you can come up with a code, I can look it up for you and give you the major problem designation.

You'd think if you ordered a set of factory heated grips that everything you need would be in the box. Well, no. You have to order the installation kit. Okay, so now you think that you have everything you need because Honda says to install their HO08T71-MGS-A30 heated grips you need their HO8T710-MGS-A30 Grip Install Kit. Then, to make sure you don't break the hidden plastic tabs that hold the Tupperware (tm) on during the install, you spring for the HO61MGS00 NC700X/XD Service Manual. OK, done, you order the three items and go home with a lightened wallet. The parts come in and you journey down to the dealer and pick up your three items and off you go to install them.

And the instructions say...

1) "Connect the sub-harness (sold separately)"
2) "Install the relay and fuse (sold separately)"
3) "Install the left handlegrip using Pro Honda 08712-0001 cement (sold separately)

Project on hold, back to the dealer. Someone ought to be hung from the belltower.

Great thread. Man I want one of these.

Seat comfort is very personal. I rode my 700 440 miles to the mountains yesterday and 360 in the mountains today. I don't have a problem with the seat after the initial ride three weeks ago. Not everyone has my butt though. :)

This bike continues to surprise me. Ridden briskly cross country yesterday I averaged 69 mpg with stuff for a weekend. Today I was able to buy ethanol free premium and got 74 mpg riding mountain roads.

When I installed an aftermarket 12v socket into my storage tub this passed week, I saw a capped off connector that's taped off under the plastic on the left side. I also noticed an empty, but pre-wired "OP" fuse slot, and "OP" relay spot. I wasn't sure if they were for the OEM accessory outlet option, or the heated grips. Apparently it's for the grips.

i am a cyclist and runner so i dont have any fat on my ass :) that means longer rides hit me hard.After 2 hours of riding my ass feels like ronjerem pounded all night long :)
Bye the way my bike with 2 up riding and full lagguage gets 3.5 litre per 100 km and my average speed is 90 kms