Owners Manual a full toolkit - check Front vibration is most likely the tires. Mine (after 500km) hums noticably around 40mph + I haven't done the valve check on the CRF yet, but its easy to do once you get to it on the CBR. I suspect the CRF will be quite a bit easier.
What up Homeboy, I am not from jersey, but I work in Mahwah, from Orange county NY. The owners manual should be under your seat. you can take off the seat with the allen key provided in the tool kit wich is in the locked compartment on the left side of your bike. it's the two luggage rack bolts that go into the seat. -Dirt
I'm in the Philly burbs. Grew up in jersey. Answers to your ?'s -manual is under seat -mine has no vibes. Check plastics bolts -hard to tell not knowing your aptitude but it's not rocket science. Definitely buy the service manual. Enjoy the bike.
I grew up in Mahwah. Still have some friends there. Great place. Pops still lives there. I have find memories of riding all over stagg mountain as a kid. Some awesome trails up that way just watch out for the locals. They don't like "outsiders" or at least that's how it was 20 yrs ago.
Thanks All - Got my manual :) I checked the front, may be the fins over the radiator thats making the noise or the tires as dirt699 mentioned. As other have mentioned it needs a pipe, it runs as quite as the Honda eu2000 generators I have for camping.
Yeah I like Mahwah it's a good place and Jersey boys has really good pizza! I work for Hydroqual not sure if you heard of it. on MacArthur Blvd. now HDR. Know any good trails in the area?
Had my first servicing done today, total of 728km now. Not entirely sure what they did, couldn't stick around as I had just gotten off noght shift. work order says they checked valve clearances, adjusted chain(which I had done already), brake adjustments, and changed all fluids. Grand total of $87.00. Free oil filter and drain plucg gasket as well as labour for the oil change, all covered by then extended warranty which is probably a waste of money but it gives me a little extra coverage as well. Biek is working good, wish it had a little more torque to pop the front end when hitting the big puddles, but seems to be running like a champ,
An aftermarket exhaust and power commander programmer (both available soon) will uncork this bike nicely and make popping the front up easy... Although mine already does without the aforementioned parts. Another thing you might want to look into is a 13 sprocket up front.
I talked to fmf again today. They said to expect all the exhaust models for this bike to be ready within the month! Problem is I don't know if the bazzaz or pcV programmers will be available by then. Can't do the exhaust with out the programmer.
TCI - Turbo City http://tciproductsusa.com/ http://www.facebook.com/pages/TCI-Products/229415333760313 like all their systems, the top will be available by itself. You can use a Giant Loop Coyote bag sitting on the rear of the seat strapped to the front edge of this rack and use a Wolfman dry duffel on the rear rack and bam you're ready to ADV tour. http://www.giantloopmoto.com/products/coyote-saddlebag http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/Expedition/expd_dry_duffels.html
I don't think that will be an issue - the FI should be able to compensate, maybe not as much as a remap via programmer, but it should be able to handle it. It was a fundamental reason why I chose this bike - the FI - no re jetting..
Question - Anybody besides ramz change the rear sprocket yet on the bike? I got a 42 tooth one and was wondering if anyone experienced the same difficulty that he did (as detailed on his site) replacing it..
I haven't got a rea sprocket yet but I have tried to take the existing sprocket off with no success just ended up rounding two off the Allen head bolts they are now going to need drilling out maybe a good idea to buy a new sprocket nut and bolt kit at the same time you buy sprocket let us know how you get on when you try to change it
It seems the CRF250L employs the same sprocket and sprocket bolts as my Honda XR650L. XR650L owners don't tighten or loosen the sprocket bolts with an Allen key. We use an Allen key to hold the bolt head, and tighten or loosen the lock nut with a wrench. If you try to tighten or loosen the bolts with an Allen key, you will certainly strip many of the bolt heads. Spud
I think I'm going to get one of these bikes. Putting a couple guns up for sale to kick off the new bike fund.
I'll have to look into the 13 tooths sprocket. The bike has enough torque to pop wheelies to be sure, but when bombing down a fire road at 50-60km/h in third in about the middle of the rev range it just doesn;t have that snap to pop the fron t up when hitting a big water hole. As far as the breaks go I find them pretty good, can definitely lok up the rear and it's pretty progressive and the front has enough bite to pull endos easily enough. Maybe I'm just too used to old bikes and crap brakes. any word when TCI will hae those racks available?
I wonder if first applying heat to the sprocket nuts would help...probably not a good idea Final Update I installed the 13T front with no difficulty. In the rear 5 of the 6 nuts came loose without difficulty, of course there's always that one - heated it up didn't help - rounded the hex side even after trying to heat it - Took it to the local shop and they had it out for me pretty quick. Picked up a replacement sprocket bolt and just waiting for the replacement rear sprocket from sprocket center. (put it back together so I could ride it in the meantime.) - Sprocket Center was true to their word - got it Saturday!
True. Some assemblers at the factory often go nuts with the threadlocker on their nuts. A little heat carefully applied to some of these locations usually works. Some areas aren't conducive to this method, as they're too close to o-rings and other sensitive components. The sprocket bolt location looks plenty far enough away to be safe for the application of a little propane torch heat, though for total insurance I'd slip the chain off the sprocket and lay it over to the side.
