I know it would work with the dimmer as I played with that setting, of off and then full on with high beams... Not sure how to hard wire...
Well, on my bike, the white wire going to the headlight is the high beam, so the dimmer has the high beam override hooked to it. High beam comes on, leds come on. Considering the low draw of the leds you could just wire an on/off switch between the white wire and the leds, however I am unsure about the ramifications. This is what a relay does...removes uncertainty. If you have the highbeam wired in as the signal in a relay, it would then provide ample power to the on/off switch and then the leds. Not difficult to do, especially if you get a relay plug and wire, then plug into the relay.
can someone post some pics (or better yet a video) simulating what an approaching cager sees if you are coming at them? ie.. have someone with a camera in the driver seat of a car while the bike is approaching in the other lane. One with the oem lights only and one with these and the oem lights.
My pics a couple pages back might give you an idea... A friend who I passed the other day with them on full (knew it was him and did it on purpose) said it was like driving into the sun...
LOL, driving into the sun . That and all the other comments about causing small animals to burst into flame make me anxious to get this puppy on the road and causing grassfires :)
I received my pair of 44s in two days (thanks for the prompt service!), and they light up the terrrain downrange very nicely . . . . However, the aftermarket volmeter (Kuryakn) on my 07 Tiger registers higher than normal voltage when I turn on the lights (plain old swtiched off and on) . . . . I guessed that the black wire is ground, the white wire is hot, and I don't THINK there's an alternate ground path running through the light mounts . . . . anyone got any ideas?
Please be more specific "higher than normal" ? What is normal on your bike? What does it read when lights on? Where do you have the vm wired? Is this a led bar graph type vm or an actual number display?
Bomber, assuming you are watching your voltage while the engine is running, what does it show with lights off, and then with lights on? Figuring it should show about 13.5-14.5 with engine running? You are correct, white is hot, black is ground. Oops, what Sanjoh said, lol.
Sanjoh, You should have gone to the RDV again, man, it was a great time. I did meet one of your lovely technicians, although (and I'm embarrassed to admit it) I've forgotten her name. I'll blame the hooch (good lord I drank a lot on Friday night).
If your bike has a built in relay for the headlights, it's easy. If not, you'll need to use a relay. if it's canbus... Assuming BMW uses a relay for the headlights: Wire the black wire to ground on the bike. Wire the white wire to the wire going to the high beam. Between either one, place a switch. Google for a wiring diagram so you know what color the high beam wire is. On my DL650, it was the yellow one, so I spliced in and ran that to the relay trigger. Suzuki runs headlight power through the switch, so I didn't take power directly from the high beam - and used a relay.
I wanted to go, but someone has to work! Next year RDV is on the list. Doesn't take much of the springwater to get you loopy Her name is Sharon.
I ordered a set of lights early Saturday morning and they showed up, to the west coast, on Monday morning !!!! Thanks Sanjoh !!
K, I wanted to do some more research before I cluttered up the thread, or gave anyone the impression that the lights are making the electrical system act wonky . . . . . Measurements taken at the battery with a DVM reveal all is acting as it should -- low-12/high-11 volts with the engine off, LED lights off, but ignition and stock lights on. voltage drops when LED lights are activated (less than one volt) Same same when the engine's running -- low 14 volts drops a couple of tenths then the LEDs are activated. The Voltmeter I have, however, is waving it's hands in the air -- it is a series of small LEDs, that read 14 volts with the engine running, LED driving light off, but it reads 16/18 volts (maxed out) with the engine running, and the LED driving lights on. The voltmeter is connected across the power leads to the small marker light that's on the front the the 07 tiger -- the meter reading matches DVM readings at the battery in all other circumstances. Now that I know the electrical system is acting normally (I suspected it was, but was pleased to prove it), I'll take a look at alternate connections for the volt meter . . . . ..
Sounds normal with the exception of the led vm behavior. Perhaps you should hold off and install one of my vm. Available on the website this week Glass of water not included 40mm(1.6") wide x 22mm(,9") tall x 19mm(.75") deep LCD (no back light required) Waterproof
Son of a biscuit eater!!! Just bought another one, then realized it probably wasn't waterproof, lol. How much, Sanjoh?
I have read this entire thread from start to finish with interest, particularly the teardown done on the first generation 27watt flood model. The application that I am considering is the Model-30 Spot beam to replace the 35-watt H3 PIAA lamps currently installed in my Hannigan sidecar. The question/issue for me is one of heat dissipation. As you can see from this photo, the lamps are set inside of non-vented molded wells in the body of the sidecar. Of course, I am not worried about heat when running in the winter, but I also have been known to ride across Nevada in June/July... ----- The light wells are 3.0" in diameter, so there would be some free space around the LED lamps, but I just wonder if it would be enough. (I have no illusions about the Model-44 lamps working in that space, and I think the spot beam might be better for full-time use anyway.) The outer lamp is wired to be ON full-time with the motorcycle's low beam, and the inner lamp is wired to come on with the high beam. ----- Thoughts? Observations? Data??? TIA!
