Tatvan is my ancestors native country, strange town beside the van lake. Don't forget to visit nemrut, the second biggest crater lake in the world. Actually three lakes (one salty, one regular and one hot lake) on the mountain top. You may also visit Ahlat there, you may see the ancient stone cemetary from the Selcuk Empire and ancient stone houses built from ahlat stone. Also buryan is the traditional meat dish. You may like it if you taste it.
Sorry, no. It is a switch-mode regulator, not a shunt regulator. See the tech information on the EME website. My experience is similar to Malindi's ... except mine is mostly commuting miles *grumble grumble sulk*. Regulator barely gets warm, battery sits on 14.2. -----sharks
spelling intentional well, i can say with personal knowledge that california is damn hot! 530 mile weekend, 320 yesterday, still not on reserve on the dakar tank, either. damn i like that. over a hundred almost the whole way, and the rectifier was cooler than i. nice bright light, no dimming instruments at idle, never did get a chance to run the heated vest or grips, sorry. engine off, 12.5 volts at idle, it was 12.8 volts. anything above 1500, 13.5v running, and mind you i live where straights are hard to find, rpms are all over the place, it went from 13.5 to 14.2. some of you are saying 14.1 all the time and i wonder a bit about that. not too much. but holding 70mph for hours this weekend the voltage on my 276c readout did vary in that range. seems to me a hot setup should be stable? yes i have a ground wire, yes i checked it. i do tech support, hit me with your best shot! the old beeyatch ran fine. there is a definite whine, but not annoying. thanks for the help http://nt-1.mcn.org/gs80/thestable.jpg david
You won't know the real voltage until you hook up a meter. I find the Garmin units to be about .4 to .5 low on the readout. See my site for some pics of the Datel meter I had on the RT and which now lives on the G/S. http://tinyurl.com/bncde
15,000 miles of abuse so far (www.nohorizons.net). Still charging as if new. The battery is getting abused (overnight charging of computer etc.) but seems to be holding up. Glad I got this setup, as the other day it took 2 days to cover 40 miles over a pass, at walking pace. Strange to not get out of first gear for 2 days ... The RPM's were low, thankfully there was cool air to cool the bike. Not sure how you would do it with a stock setup ... I don't think I got over 3k rpm...
Woohoo! Go Kevin! I've quoted you on my generator page, hope you don't mind. Keep on trucking! -----sharks
Just a note to say thanks to John at Euromotoelectrics (Enduralast). I had an issue with my regulator (probably my fault) and John was a perfect gentleman..walked me through the diagnosis process, determined the problem, and sent me a new regulator that same day. Once again, I think I screwed the install, that's probably why the regulator didn't work correctly. John still took the time to make things right and I am happy as ever with the product...Tony
Hey all... 3500 miles on my enduralast install, I had the rectifier under the tank, but now it is up in the wind where the stock horn would be...much better. I didn't have space behind the battery like others did. Runs great! Heated grips, heated liner, massive headlight, all fine, 14 volts at idle. Thanks, John!
So all enduralast customers are still happy? My stock system still works, but I'm visiting US, so tempting to bring with me an enduralast or omega. " The voltage regulator controls the energy supply from the stator / rotor according to the system demand, monitoring the voltage. The current Modern Common Practice for use in the transportation industry (with 2-phase stator and permanent magnet rotor) is to perform the function of regulation thru the use ofa Silicone-Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or thyristor." This technology works well? Madman1 Norway
I've heard only good things on the enduralast except for one....something breaks....you need to replace the entire system. The Omega system has more components.....but they are all individually replaceable. The proprietor of Motorrad Elektrik, Rick Jones is a hell of a guy and stands behind his product. For that reason, I would go with the Omega again.
:huh Not sure where you heard that. There's only one part that can really fail. That's the regulator/rectifier box. I suppose the stator could fail, but that's not a common failure item on any chargine system. The rotor basically CANNOT fail as it's just a magnet. I don't see why you'd have to replace the whole system if the box went. It costs $100 and is a readily available OEM part on ducatis and moto guzzis.
Gotta agree with A-Dub. Troubleshooting the Omega rotor requires an Ohm meter. Troubleshooting the Enduralast requires a chunk of steel. 60k miles on mine and I've never touched it. I ran heated grips this winter with no problems. I've also got 2 extra fog lights that I run sometimes. I've still got the 6 year old Odyssey battery that the PO gave me. I'd say it's the points-in-a-can of alternators
From what i read last time that was the consensus. Great..as long as it doesn't go south. The stator cannot be purchased separately, and if the box does go, how do you diagnose it? It's output is limited per snowbums eval. I would not shy away from one though as overall it's a good system. I do wonder why if it is such a great product, Rick does not offer it. Generally it seems he supports the good stuff.