The BMW HP2 Megamoto thread.

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Joe Bar, Sep 27, 2008.

  1. hankgs

    hankgs Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,916
    Location:
    Near Santa Babylon, CA
    Damn, that is a nice headlight/cowl set up! The only thing I hate about the MM is the "parts bin" headlight- it is FUGLY!
  2. bikecat

    bikecat Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,246
    Location:
    Tropical Far East
    At the risk of being lynched, I tend to agree. The HP2E has a nicer headlight than the MM, although the MM has more goodies like tacho, counter-balancer etc.

    On cooling, how many notches are you guys hitting when fully warmed up? Mine is only 2 or 1 notch from the mark and that worries me.
  3. bikecat

    bikecat Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,246
    Location:
    Tropical Far East
    I have been playing with my suspension, and I do not understand this.

    1. In the MM manual, page 44, it is stated that if one wants to reduce rebound on the rear suspension, to turn it in the direction of "a" i.e. clockwise (when viewed from the top). At page 45, it is stated for Rebound setting, basic setting, rear "turn setting screw as far as it go in the counterclockwise direction, as viewed from above, then turn it 19 clicks in the clockwise direction".

    This is opposite from what seems to be the usual rebound adjustment for Ohlins usually - see http://www.ohlins.com/Checkpoint-Ohlins/Setting-Up-Your-Bike/Setting-up-your-Motocross-bike/How-to-adjust/Compression--Rebound-Damping/ i.e. clockwise for close, anti-clockwise for open. For the HP2 shock the Ohlins site is also different from the MM manual - see http://www.ohlins.com/Our-products-new/Motorcycle/Products/Dual-sport/BM-688/

    If the MM manual is right, then what the manual stipulates is to fully open the rebound then close 19 clicks, which is a departure from the usual practice of closing it fully, then open it X number of clicks.

    Any view?
  4. GSMarc

    GSMarc Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,074
    Location:
    Belgium
    All is right.
    In fact, due to the position of the nut :

    Turn adjusting screw as far as it will go in the counterclockwise


    direction, as viewed from above, then turn it 1
    9 clicks in the clockwise direction.

    means in fact to tighten the nut and minus 19 after.
    You must imagine being under the lovely bike before setting this parameter. :rofl

  5. schlim66

    schlim66 Lone Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    730
    Location:
    Somewhere in SoCal
    You've heard the expression "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder", well I think that twin eyeball thing is about as Fugly as you can get! I don't mind the stock HP2e light and I really like the look of the MM's fairing and headlight especially with the carbon surround.
    To each his own!

    Schlim66
  6. bikecat

    bikecat Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,246
    Location:
    Tropical Far East
    Need some help here ...

    Can someone measure the remaining travel left on the stock front forks? i.e. distance from of the travel to the lowest point the forks seals had been from riding. I think a cable tie on the shiny bit will help.

    I am not using all the travel, and want to investigate why.

    Cheers
  7. GSMarc

    GSMarc Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,074
    Location:
    Belgium
    I never use all the travel, I think going to the lowest point isn't necessary or even good.

    If I remember well, I use only 2/3 of the remaining travel when I'm on the bike.

    I'm about 240 lbs with full equipment.
  8. bikecat

    bikecat Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,246
    Location:
    Tropical Far East
    Have decided to try set it up properly.

    Here's the extent of the travel that I am now using. I will tinker with the weight of the oil and the air gap and hope to achieve a smoother ride. As of now it is fine at high speeds but at low speeds I feel every bump. Anyone out there has similar problems?

    Also, does anyone know the weight of the rider that the stock springs are for?

    [​IMG]

    Keep you guys posted.
  9. GSMarc

    GSMarc Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,074
    Location:
    Belgium
    Yesterday I did a little ride of 55 miles with the MM.

    Here, roads are very bad and the front of the MM is hard.
    When I came back, I had the cable tie at half, like yours.

    The MM needs perfect road, it's the reason why I bought a HP2E and set it up with the MM wheels, keeping original HP2E fork.
  10. Macroenie

    Macroenie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    245
    Location:
    Netherlands
    ...with the MM at Rösner und Rose on the 8th & 9th of June.

    to swap the left and right ´teeths´ for some polished ones and to have my cavities replaced by some rebored ones which will be filled with forged wössner pistons and connecting rods :evil

    Stay tuned.
  11. Macroenie

    Macroenie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    245
    Location:
    Netherlands
    [​IMG]



    price without advertising 349 EUR + 26 EUR for clearcoating which is a necessity because of the otherwise bare aluminium cooling ribs.
  12. hawideri

    hawideri Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    020

    Are you going mod crazy Macroenie? Looks like your on a serious hunt for upgrades :gun1

    What about the mods on page 123? (page 123 of this thread) Now that is an interesting mod project (1, 2 or more...)
    In case you happen to come across a nice rear-end remake (carbon preverably), please share :ear.
  13. hillbillypolack

    hillbillypolack Grumpy Old Goat

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2005
    Oddometer:
    16,251
    Location:
    Lidsville
    If you can post details of their rebuild, what they modified and what it cost that would be a great help. Be sure to run a 'before' dyno chart so we all can see what was altered and how much it was improved.
  14. ViperJustin

    ViperJustin Retired HH60G Gunner

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,245
    Location:
    Las Vegas, NV
    Can you link the "page 123" mods? I can't find it. Thanks!
  15. Macroenie

    Macroenie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    245
    Location:
    Netherlands

    a) BigBore cylinders (103mm to bring capacity up from 1170 to 1216ccm) - 1185 EUR
    b) Wössner pistons - 360 EUR
    c) Wössner connecting roads - 660 EUR
    d) Connecting rod bearings - 63 EUR
    e) Reworked cylinder heads - 849 EUR
    f) 4 Light tappets (if that is the correct translation...) - 160 EUR
    g) 8 light valve adjustment screws - 95 EUR
    h) New oilfilter + Motorex oil - 67 EUR
    i) Fitting and tuning. - 624 EUR


    I have a before dyno, see some pages back, but that´s from an other brand of dyno so prone to differ from theirs.
    I´m not sure if they will do a before run but I think so, if not I´ll ask.
  16. Macroenie

    Macroenie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    245
    Location:
    Netherlands
    haha :rofl these will be the final mods, I promise :rolleyes

    I haven´t bought any of those colored valve heads yet but if I would: black. I think they were never shown here so I thought I would share the link for anyone interested.

    Are you talking about the mods on that HP2E? It´s different but I´m not sure I like it, those open K&N filters must make some interesting noise though.

    I have seen carbon replacements once (on ebay) for the to white plastic pieces on the back but I had a go in photoshop to see If I would like the look but I don´t, well yes maybe when I have them sprayed white again as the weight improvement is of course without question :lol3
  17. hawideri

    hawideri Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    020
    Famous "final words" :lol3

    But, for sure the HP2E mods, I think the airfilters fits the bike. Although I do think that having the battery ed cut out just creates a big cap.

    For the rear-end, I like to have a more clean look as the stock one. I found this carbon tail: But are missing pictures that show the line of the motor when fitted.
    http://holan.pl/en/product/24/29/106/110/2017/rear_mudguard_Rally_for_HP2

    I also thought about having the number plate and lights fitted to such a rear mudguard:
    http://shop.ilmberger-carbon.de/car...ritzschutz-hinten-carbon-bmw-r-1200-gs?c=2188
    And then drop the current one in total.

    Anyway still in the planning phase...
  18. ViperJustin

    ViperJustin Retired HH60G Gunner

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,245
    Location:
    Las Vegas, NV

    Bookmarked! Thanks for the web page!
  19. Macroenie

    Macroenie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    245
    Location:
    Netherlands
    This MM is for sale here in the Netherlands

    notice the strange cockpit fairing
    Also some kind of wrapping around the original exhaust :eek1


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  20. bikecat

    bikecat Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,246
    Location:
    Tropical Far East
    hawideri,

    I did my own and saved some money. Some ideas to share:

    I really did not like the stock tail. It's too, well, cumbersome. So I decided to make a simple one. Cardboard mock-up, then aluminium plate. Large holes to save some grams :)

    [​IMG]

    Mock-up fitting to make sure it fits ... keep the stock plate light as I think it is a legal requirement. You will need some holes for the lights.

    [​IMG]

    Paint and reflective tape for safety,

    [​IMG]

    As it is mounted ... the stock signals can be fitted provided that you prepare the holes for the stalks and bolts.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers