Super Ténéré 1200 OFF ROAD preparations and experiences thread

It weighs 6 lbs.

If we can gather this info maybe it can be linked in the "Tenere links" thread.

Yeah good idea, here it is http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18975182&posted=1#post18975182

WHEIGT

Force: 6lbs = 2,7kg
Touratech: 7,8lbs = 3,57kg
Hepco&Becker: 14lbs = 6,3kg
ACD: 9,8lbs = 4,5kgs
Alt Rider: ??
Rideonav: ??

ALUMINIUM THICKNESS:

Force: ??
Touratech: 3mm
Hepco&Becker: ??
ACD: 4mm
Alt Rider: ??
Rideonav: ??

While I’m waiting this lazy guys finish the dual exhaust, the skid plate, the suspension, etc. I’m sill doing little things.
I install this fork seals. I had it in the DRZ and work fine. Easy install with the Velcro.



It also needs a new air filter. The OEM is not cheap so I bought a K&N who last a lot.





Finally I install the famous clutch switch that it seems improve the bike response in the three first gears. Hope to have time to have a good test.
I’m going to need a instructions manual to ride with all this switches.

Nice, you even have a properly labeled switch with "rain" and "sunshine" mode

Yeah...but the rain is upside down...

Inverted gravity

Finally I went to a short but intense “magic button” test.
The problem is I tried the bike with the switch and the new K&N filter, so the bike also “breath” better (the old filter was quite dirty), that means they where two combined factors.

I didn’t have much time so the test was only off road, I couldn’t say is a huge difference but it is. In low revs the bike seems to be more powerful, instant response, really exiting….GREAT!
I must try it better, with this switch on I don’t know if there is any difference between the T and S mode. Also it seems that it only works in the three first gears, I didn’t experienced that in this short test.
I’m very happy but really concerned about how little the rear tires are going to last, this is going to be very expensive … but what a fun

Hi guys I’ve just pick my bike to the Dynojet to test the clutch magic switch. I'm happy, the feeling I had yesterday in the test where right.

Unfortunately I have the graphics in a PDF and don’t know hot to show it in the web, if anybody know how to convert it in a JPG….

We measured the power only in 3rd and 4th gear.

These are the answers to the most common questions:

1. What is the difference between the S and T mode in the standard bike?
I’ve read in several magazines that in a standard Super Tenere the power in S and T modes are the same but different response: WRONG.
I was surprised the big difference between them: the graphic since 5000 rpm are nearly the same but in 4th gear the S mode reach 16 HP more than the T mode and in 3rd the difference is 20 HP.

2. Is the switch working in all gears?
No. In 4th (and probably in 5th and 6th) gear there is no difference between the switch on and off but in 3rd (and assume in 1st and 2nd) in low revs there is about 5 HP difference with the standard bike and increase to 10HP in a middle range. So the bike response is much immediate in low and medium revs but only in the 3 first gears.

3. Is the switch increasing the bike power?
No difference in maximum power. Once you increase the revs the power become the same than in S mode in a standard bike.

4. Is still working the S & T mode?
No. S and T mode became the same with the switch on

So, there is a very good improve for a low price.
I did a test on road, accelerating in 2nd with the switch on the traction control became mad. With the switch off in the same road the traction control doesn’t work.
In off road the bike is a beast, really really fun. I recommend you.

Thanks for doing these tests.

One issue that has been discussed already is that with an inertia dyno, the throttle damping that Yamaha has in the T mode may masquerade as a loss of steady-state power. This would be consistent with the T mode power deficit becoming less and less in higher gears.

- Mark

Could be...

Another question I have is the difference between my graphic and the german one. I assume when they measured the bike in 2nd gear and the switch off they did it in T mode.
Is the only answer I have to the big power difference they have in top revs. In mine there is no difference but in S mode.

This is the graphic in the german forum

Thanks to Trevor here are the graphics

4th gear:



3rd gear:



EDITING:

This graphic in 3rd is better. Is in RPM and not in speed

Hrnnnnngggggg

uh...


I need a tissue.

This last set of dyno graphs are great and jive with most of the butt dyno reports. Thanks for posting.

My summary of what the "switch" does based on the good dyno info we're now getting:

1. In all gears, turns T mode into S mode.
2. In 4th-6th, does nothing else.
3. In 1st-3rd, eliminates the low- to mid-RPM-range ~20% power dip programmed into the ECU.

I did some back-of-the-envelope calculations to determine the RPM where the "dip" is the worst in 3rd and it appears to be mostly a low-RPM issue, with the deficit being worst at about 3200 RPM and essentially returning to full power by 4300. This would indicate that if you rev the bike above 4500 RPM or so, the switch probably does very little, even in the lower gears. And this jives with my experience where the bike seems to have a low-RPM flat spot that you sometimes notice pulling away from a stop. And it also explains how some think this mod is the greatest thing since sliced-bread and others don't think it does much - it all depends on how you use the engine.

I'm starting to think that this "power dip" is there for emissions reasons. While you occasionally see these sorts of restrictions on ultra-powerful fly-by-wire bikes for control-ability reasons (e.g., liter sportbikes), the modest power of the S10 doesn't really need it and I can't see how making the engine peakier in the lower gears enhances control-ability anyway.

- Mark

Thanks for doing this!

Now if we can just get a US spec bike on a dyno. If I knew of a shop that had one around here, I'd do it .

In fact, I may make some phone calls...

So, to add to this;

4. if you want to keep T mode, you need a handlebar switch. Otherwise, just insert the fuse in the clutch switch and leave it like that...

I don't know if Yamaha do this restrictions for emissions or security reasons... the power could be modest but the torque is big. With the switch on the torque is huge and could gives you some problems in wet road or painted zebra crossing. :eek1

You're right, also with the excellent TC the ST has you can ride it safe. But I like the T mode in slippery off road tracks.

Thanks a lot for doing that jaumev,

Since the power dip is in the same rev range as the DL1000 "Wheeze zone" I would guess that emissions have something to do with it. Maybe it doesn't have to be as aggressive, and I still don't know whether it is feeding in the throttle gently to eliminate the need for enrichment in that area to get past the drive by tests. (Could be noise OR gas reduction)

Many bikes these days seem to have a funny spot around 4K.

I did my clutch mod (with switch, relay and LED) about 3 weeks ago and LOVE it - can't wait for situations where I need to go down to 2nd and 3rd gear! I'm enjoying my bike again and have decided against getting the Triumph Explorer...

I spoke to one of the Yamaha Technical guys here in SA and he tested the mod on his S10 as well and was astounded by the positive change to the bikes character - he has emailed Japan to enquire about the mod.... not holding my breath...

:eek1:eek1