For a stainless M6 bolt into stainless threaded insert in a nylon housing, what would be the best bet for a part that's not really under a lot of load? I've seen some of the inserts twist/pull out the plastic housing during disassembly when the screws were (stupidly) put in with a red, high strength compound (the inserts themselves are melted into the plastic I believe). 243 would seem the obvious answer but I'm tempted to go with 222 just to avoid the chance of any more issues. For a bunch of M6 bolts holding a plastic housing together is 222 going to be strong enough to avoid any loosening due to vibration?
Sound thinking on addressing the problem. That's the cool thing with having and being familiar with the various strength threadlockers. If the low strength purple 222 doesn't do the trick at 53 inch/lb breakloose and 30 inch/lb's prevailing loosening torque, we go to the next higher strength product which would be the 249 Quicktape at 74 breakloose and 47 prevailing loosening torque. If that doesn't work, the blue 248 Quickstick at 110/43, then 243 Blue Medium Threadlocker (replaced the old 242 we're all used to using) at 230/40 in/lbs. I've seen guys through the years get themselves into 9 kinds of trouble by putting a red permenant threadlocker on their bikes and in the workplace so many times it would make your head spin-so beware. Dirty
Brilliant! Thanks for the confidence boost and I'll keep those other options in mind if the 222 gives us any issues.
Dirty, This is a coolant leak on my recently assembled RMX250 The cylinder is new and I think I unintentionally caused this by running a tap through the threads (which removed some metal) because the studs were very tight to thread in and I did not want to risk cracking the thread boss. I used some 3-Bond (Suzuki Bond) per the manual and tightened the studs to spec. Then I discovered the leak, swore lots, pulled the head and found the leaking studs were loose. The 3-Bond was opened about 18 months ago, but was re-sealed and stored in the fridge. It's age may have something to do with it. Anyway, would 577 be the stuff to use here (retain and seal up to 150°C) or use something else? Also, I zinc plated the studs myself, in case that has some affect on the product's ability to retain. Cheers, David.
Looks to me like it is leaking up through the stud itself. Could it be traveling up/behind/in the zinc plating? I have never seen a coolant leak quite like that. I am assuming nothing is above that could drip down on the stud.
Quick question...and hopefully a quick answer! I'm using a thread repair kit on the headlight aim adjustment (640 Adventure). There's a thin aluminium alloy frame that the M5 adjustment screw threads right through. The female thread has stripped in the frame. The repair kit has the correct sized drill and tap, and coil thread inserts. All went well until I tried to fit the screw again, at which point it pushed the coil insert out through the back. There's a handful of ways I could stop this from happening when assembling it, but I wonder if it will dislodge itself later? So my question is: should I Loctite the coil? I'm thinking some 641 super bearing mount, or some stud lock (Loctite red), both are sitting there in the shed. Also have some 648 laying about. Thanks.
I'd get the threaded piece positioned correctly and squarely in the tab, get one of those epoxy sticks, knead it up and mash it in place on the back of the tab and let cure. It sounds sorta like a riv-nut type setup, and those things have been known to loosen in their hole. Then use a low strength purple 222 or blue medium strength threadlocker to hold the adjustment screw in place. You'll still be able to adjust the aiming screw with either strength threadlocker. Good application though! Dirty
I was just going to suggest actually using a Riv-Nut or equivalent. Threads that small directly in aluminum is kinda hokey. It would be PITA if your fix let go in the middle of a long ride.
Thanks gents... had to google riv-nut! Loctiting the adjustment screw sounds like a good way to stop it happening again - or at least reduce it. The adjustment screw goes through the frame and sticks out the back, so I'd have to use a doughnut of epoxy stuff to leave clearance. If it fails, it's not a showstopper. The light will just jiggle around, annoying oncoming drivers. It's done that for a long time before I realised something was wrong.
dirty_sanchez, I have few bottles of 648 so wondering if that is OK to use for my job: On my bike I have an earlier version on clutch cover, which has a hole for the push shaft simply cast into alloy so it gets worn out as the shaft slides in it and can cause a catasprophic jamming. Solution is to enlarge the bore and use a steel insert. I have bought a split bushing like this - http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Be...acked+Plain+Bush+12x14x25mm/product_info.html The OD, I think, is covered with a layer of tin - could that cause problem with too fast or incomplete curing? This bushing will be pressed into my bike's clutch cover (aluminum-magnesium alloy), same as this: Another pic with bushing installed on a German bike. See how it will need a hole in the side for the bearing to be pressed in later and the toothed shaft to engage through. My worries are that my bushing will additionally have a split down entire length as well as having a bored out hole, that it is zinc plated and that it will be subjected up to around 80-100 deg. C and engine oil. What do you think, is 648 going to deal with that? Any tips or something to watch out for? Thanks lots!
Bli55-I think 648 would be a great choice for this application. I've pressed in these sleeves/collars into clutch covers before. Clean all of the surfaces real good, apply a continuous bead on the leading part of the mating surface and press that bugger in. With a Q-Tip or a wadded up piece of paper towel, soak up any squeezeout of the 648 once the bushing is in place. Let it sit overnight undisturbed once it's in place. Good question! Dirty
I have to disassemble a Guzzi rear drive I just built a coupla months ago. I used red loctite for the first time in my life on the drive flange bolts per advice I got. So I know I have to heat the bolts up to remove them, but I don't really know how to tell that I have hit each bolt with enough heat. I do have an IR thermometer, but I dunno how wide its angle is... roy
The book says to heat up the assy to 450F for 5 minutes. Threadlockers are a thermoset plastic. Locally applied heat will soften them. You might consider heating the parts until you see that first wisp of smoke coming out from around the threaded assy....or until it gets to 450 for 5 minutes. Please beware though, if you don't heat it enough you very well might strip the metal threads in the assy OR break the threaded fastener. More reasons I'm real skiddish of using red threadlockers on bikes where the mfg. doesn't spec in red threadlockers. Dirty
I'll make sure it sees some pretty good heat. At least thru first wisps of smoke. I'll probably put it back together with blue loctite. Red makes me nervous. roy
I don't plan to take it back apart til I have the replacement part in my hand, but I'll post a picture when I get it to the bolts I'm worried about. roy
These red loctited 8 bolts are what I need to remove. I'm actually thinking about putting the assy on my grill for 30 min or so. Other ideas? Thanks, roy
Yep! Great idea-or even better still, in the oven....while Msflem is out for the day. I think more even/uniform heating in the oven to 450 to 500F for an hour, just wrap it up in some foil to contain the fumes. Then hit the bolts with an impact and they'll zip right out. Are there any oil seals or rubber bits? They'll likely need replacement once the assy gets heated up, so I'd address that potential issue as well. You'll be fine with either of the above ideas. Dirty
I wouldn't go over 400f as you can start to affect the tempering of the hardened gear teeth above that temp. 400f should be lots to release the Loctite and still do no harm to the gear. Best Regards....justjeff
