2012 690 enduro to smc conversion question

Actually, the opposite is true. The smaller wheel offers the tire LESS leverage against the disk/caliper, so the brake feels stronger/lighter.

I'm about to give up on trying to find a 320mm caliper spacer, and go with the stock 300mm rotor and some Motard wheels.

I have two sets for SX/EXC, both have 320mm front disks. The back wheels won't fit. I'm tempted to spend big on the KTM Twins tubless option, but a little more Reserch into fitting the forged 2013 Duke wheels first.

Anyone got any further info? (from above, seems the Duke disk bolt pattern, and the fact the Duke disks are the wrong size is the first problem. I have seen older SMs/SMCs with older Duke wheels fitted. Not sure how much "engineering" was required.)

I find riding my KTM690 a return to pure riding pleasure (road biased Pirelli MT90s).
I have several great bikes (ok 7), but while away at work I think about my 690 the most.. Oh and my GF!

Any tips on getting the rear wheel to clear the caliper. I'm getting hung up by it not even looking close to clearing. My tire is a 2ct 160/60/17. Any help is much appreciated

Got a voice mail with some tips. Going to try again tomorrow as I'm sick and tired of messing with it today

Here's another question for you SMC'ers.. Stock gearing is 15:45 (says for 2013, not sure of other years?), what rear sprockets are you all running? Somebody responded they use a 40T, are you able to use the stock chain with that without a major adjustment? Thanks in advance.. I am looking to get a SM setup on mine soon, probably will do the KTMtwins setup, or possibly woody's wheel works.

Will someone please list all the necessary parts for a smc conversion?

One front 17" wheel, one rear 17" wheel. Those are the only NECESSARY parts.

"One front 17" wheel, one rear 17" wheel. Those are the only NECESSARY parts."

If you buy the right wheels, this is correct. I am doing research for SM wheels also for my '13 690E, and I plan on buying wheels that will require no spacers or have fitment issues (if possible ).

Be sure the front wheel has the 690E brake rotor setup or you'll have to get a spacer/bracket to move the caliper.
Be sure the rear wheel has a sprocket that you can use with the stock chain - previous posts here say 40T and 42T will work if you flip the axle block adjusters around, which is about as easy as it gets. The stock enduro sprockets are 15:45, so 42T will be taller gearing but you're running a smaller wheel diameter.

The speedo will be off due to the 17" front tire being smaller than the 21", but you can switch the wheel length speedo read (690E default is 2250) to 1850 (i think?) on the computer somewhere, or you have to mess with a wire.. There's a writeup somewhere on either supermotojunkies or an SMC thread here explaining it.

You'll also want the 690SMC kickstand, the 690E stand is wayyyy too tall for the 17" wheels.

This is everything I've learned while researching for my SM wheel setup, hope this helps. Also, anybody correct me if I've missed anything or stated anything incorrectly.

Obviously you have to weigh the price to convenience aspect. Myself I went with convenience so I bought complete wheelsets including a 2nd set of cush rubbers, so all I have to do is pull off the dirt wheels and bolt on the SM wheels, I do use the same spacers for both wheel sets. It takes me about 15 minutes form start to finish.

If you want to do it on the cheap then you'll have to swap things like the sprocket carrier and brake rotors between the wheel sets so all you really need is to buy the wheels, although you will probably want to get a 40 T rear sprocket as well.

I did use the E kickstand for a while but the bike sits almost straight up. I did eventually have a buddy cut it down and re-weld the foot back on for the cost of a beer. It leans a bit more with the dirt wheels on it now but it's no big deal.

You'll want a set of fork guards from on older sx (2006 works I think) or you have to trim a little from the stock ones. The shorter fatter front tire rubs the stock guards.

A properly inflated 120 rubs the guards?!

Yup, 10 seconds with a dremel fixes it though.

Wait till you try to Get the rear on.
I'm still having problems clearing the caliper :). But I had to give up as I'm in study mode for finals!

What is the seat height change when putting the 17's on it?

I mount the wheel with the tire deflated to get past the caliper.

I did that and mounted the tire and caliper on the swing arm at the same time. Made it loads easier, but I ordered the wrong fork guards so I have to wait for the right ones come in

Has anyone done non-spoked wheels - like, actual cast wheels? Friend showed me a pic of a 500 EXC with non-spoked solid wheels, and it looked awesome..

Marchesinis are popular if you want forged wheels:

http://www.marchesiniwheels.com/en/wheels/prodotti-motard/Pages/M10-RR-Kompe-Motard.aspx

http://www.motostrano.com/Marchesini-Supermoto-Wheels-p/kit-sa.htm

Forged rims look great but the benefits of spoked rims outweigh the benefits of forged wheels. It is nearly impossible to true a forged wheel if it ever gets bent and they cost alot more. Spoked rims can be trued easily if bent and cost less. Imo the forged rims look better but with the price difference and unability to re-true if they were to get bent makes me lean more toward spoked rims.

True, but forged wheels = LESS WEIGHT! Now that trumps the miniscule chance of bending a wheel which by the way you can have retrued, just have to send it off to a pro to do it. Even then not that big a deal, I've raced on more then one bent wheel and it never had an affect on my lap times.

Of course the real down side to forged wheels is they're hella expensive! Heck, even cast wheels are more expensive then spoked. Hence the reason I have spoked ones.

If I was only racing/track or street only I'd put on forged. But if you like jumping curbs or doing any kind of rough road/light dirt with 17's Spokes all the way. A street tard with out spokes is a waste ImO.