I might be interested in a pair of these also. They look like they might work out great on my uly. I'll be waiting for more pics.
PM for payment information with email address. Paypal is preferred. I will send a total for payment. Went camping over the weekend and got some night pics. 55w H4 Halogen In a 7" round parabolic projector. The light looks dim but is actually very bright. The trees on the far side of the road are about 100' away. With 55w halogen 1 24w and 1 10w led 1 24w and 1 10w led 10w led 24w led
Hey sanjoh ... I really like the design of your LED Auxiliary Lights In your first post you say ""These lights are extremely bright, you can't look directly at them when on. I don't recommend using them with traffic at night, during the day, people will get out of your way." I would like a set that I could use both night and day - and not have to shut them off with traffic at night. Could you make a set that is maybe 6 watts total each in a 25 or 30 degree pattern ?? I think others could use a set like that also. Thanks ....
Just to be a good guy, I'll check with my buddies to see about only making one order. I'm sold, stand by for PM
With a sticker over the lens it would stop blinding traffic in the opposite direction, but, I don't know how hot the lens gets. --- sanjoh, Nice product indeed, can the LEDs be replaced? Are they by any chance made by Bridgelux (they have single LEDs up to 2200lm / 16.6v). The 24W LED setup you say are 3x3 LEDs, but each unit with a lens holds 3 LEDS?:huh
The 10w lights should meet your needs. The narrow beam pattern means no stray light, angle the lights down a bit to ensure safety.
Anyone know if you could put these on a dimmer?Buy the bigger ones and dim them in traffic and turn up when you can.Thanks Ed
I would be very interested in a pair of 24W, if I could get a digital dimmer to avoid any loss of power and allowing full range of dimming. Would a dimmer cause the LED any problems (higher heat, less life, etc.)? Would it be possible or would it create any problems, to get full power on high beam and then have a dimmer control on low beam?? I saw a question below "Which LED's are you using?", but I did not see an answer. Are the LEDs waterproof with the O-ring mentioned below?? Do you have any more details/specifics on the electrical equipment provided ( switches waterproof, relays??) What is the expected lifetime of the LEDs? Can the LEDs be replaced in the future or would it be a total replacement?? Sorry to ask so many questions.
Q I would be very interested in a pair of 24W, if I could get a digital dimmer to avoid any loss of power and allowing full range of dimming. Would a dimmer cause the LED any problems (higher heat, less life, etc.)? A The dimmer will not cause any issues, it may well increase the life expectancy of the leds. QWould it be possible or would it create any problems, to get full power on high beam and then have a dimmer control on low beam?? APerhaps an electrical expert can better answer this, I don't know. Q I saw a question below "Which LED's are you using?", but I did not see an answer. A Not sure Q Are the LEDs waterproof with the O-ring mentioned below?? A Did you see the pics with the lights in the pool? Yes they are waterproof. I don't recommend them for permanent underwater installations. Q Do you have any more details/specifics on the electrical equipment provided ( switches waterproof, relays??) A I have been using this switch without a relay on a fused circuit. Q What is the expected lifetime of the LEDs? Can the LEDs be replaced in the future or would it be a total replacement?? A 35000 to 50000 hours according to the WikiIf you turned the lights on and left them on continuously they would stay lit for 4 (four) years at the least. You will never need to replace the leds.
Yes, I thought about it and you are right, PWM is the way to go... Should have been awake when I wrote it... my bad. Forget what I wrote down here... That's easy to explain, although it's theoretical: U=Voltage I=Current (Amperes) R=Resistance P=Power (Watts) So, we use two formulas: U=I*R and P=U*I Now fill in the numbers: I=P/U and R=U/I thus R=12/2=6 Ohms To reduce it to, let's say 6V, you have to add a 6 Ohms resistor in front of the LED unit, giving you 6V over the resistor and 6V over the LED unit. If you like to have the light at 75%, you will have to set a 2 Ohm resistor in front of it, to get 1/4 part over the resistor and 3/4 parts over the LED unit. It's really simple but make sure the wattage of the resistor exceeds the wattage of the of the LED units. Now, a 50W resistor cooled in some aluminum housing will cost some 10USD, they are sold in most car electronic shops as a lot of people would switch to LED these days. I'm personally thinking to get a pair of 24W LEDs and set the head unit with a LED H4 light as well just to fill up the gab. Here in Mexico there are not many rules about the lights you use and I'll be using the LEDs to drive at night and during the day, thus I won't be using a switch or what ever and hook them directly to the main headlight wires. Now, set them in series and NOT parallel! You will smoke the resister for sure! You are not using it for your directional lights like in the links below! Plus it will kill the idea of having less load on your generator... I believe that the LEDs that are used in these units are 3W each, so, the 10W is more a 9W (3*3W) light and the 24W a 27W light (9*3W). sanjoh, how much will be shipping to Mexico AND the lights, city Queretaro with postal code 76117 for the set of 24W? Any pictures of the 3x3 24W LED light where we can see the LED area? EDIT: Examples: http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/Turn-Signal-Fix/6-OHM-50W-2-BULB-LED-p4783296.html http://store.ijdmtoy.com/50W-Load-Resistor-Blinkers-License-Plate-Light-Fix-p/led_load_resistor.htm http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...tion=DispPage&Page2Disp=/tail-brake-turn.html http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=12
I really think I want/need a set of these lights for my Strom. I like the dimmer idea, that way could run all the time for that "see me" effect but could turn up the juice for night runs. anybody have thoughts on a source for a dimmer switch?
would something like this work on the 24w set? http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Controller-Incandescent-Aircraft-Interior/dp/B001CM74R2/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_b
A bit expensive but yes, one of the dimmers for each, you just have to make it waterproof or put it in a housing. Looks like those things get hot...
maybe someone with more electrical knowledge than I have can find a decent dimmer switch at a fair price..
If you aren't afraid of a bit of soldering, here is a nice kit for under $10 : http://www.moreleds.com/drivers.htm (half way down the page) PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) is the way to go for dimming, as you won't be wasting a lot energy to heat. You'll probably even find that you can "dim" them quite a ways before you visually can tell they are dimming, yet they will be drawing less power (read about apparent brightness on that link). Update: I like the looks of this dimmer too, search for KICK-KR6 on ebay. Looks like this single unit would control two lights.
