Big Bend NP- the Now'r Nev'r trip

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Phattyre-Phready2, Feb 24, 2012.

  1. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    Kinda' costly to make dirtbikes street legal just so they can ride 4wd backroads? Any singletrack out there, SKINNY?

    Wierd... I just got an email notification that Cannonshot replied to this string and explained the DOT requirements. I refreshed and it's still not here yet. Thanks in advance, Cannonshot!

    I'd elaborate, but Cannonshot explains it well... should show up here soon? I received the email notification at 8:47...
  2. MizzouRider

    MizzouRider Long timer Supporter

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    We just got back from BB a week ago.
    This is the third year in a row I've gone down there, I absolutely love it.
    We were on dual sports, so we mostly road the gravel roads. The state park is a blast, we all went up king kong hill to a camp site on a canyon edge, great views. I will post a pic, if you don't mind a hijack..
    In regards to the strange folks at Terlingua Ranch.. We had a guy that had a pretty bad get off in there.. On Marathon Rd. We had to wait for a ambulance for a bit. (3 cracked ribs, a broken collar bone, and shoulder blade). He went over the bars.. While we were waiting, a guy I believe living in a very small trailer drove up to lecture us about leaving empty beer cans etc on his property.. Really? After that I was trying to find some trash to leave there..
    When you go back with your DRZ, don't miss, Black Gap, and Old Ore, they are great.
    I love all the pics you took. We hardly ever stopped..:evil
    Luckily we didn't run into Barney down there either.. 45 mph, I thought was suggested, ha
    Great RR, I like the way you tell the story..

    Jeff
  3. Cannonshot

    Cannonshot Having a Nice Time Administrator Super Moderator

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    Texas regs. State Parks require a DOT license in Texas. This is why DS motorcycles and 4WD can run the primitive roads in BBRSP but ATVs and unlicensed OHM cannot.
  4. GhostRiderFC

    GhostRiderFC Just a guy who rides

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    Yeah, thanks for including it. It's entirely possible that my big mouth would get me into trouble. :evil

    Lots of great pics and info. Really enjoying it.
  5. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    If you've been following from the start, you should know I'm agreeable to small hijacks... besides, I'd get flamed now if I said no! We ALL want to see King Kong's Lair! And surely you took a picture of your friend's crash bike while you're uploading? You kind of left us hanging on how ya'll got his bike out since he was in an ambulance. Not a hijack... curious minds want to know and it's right on target as far as the subject matter!

    Sorry to hear about your buddy's spill... sounds like a high speed get off? I don't envy that ambulance wait, either. Anybody have any ibuprofen or such? Those kinda' waiting minutes feel like hours... then some dipstick falsely accuses you of littering... bet that was hard to take! Shoulda' told him you thought he might need some house patches!

    It sounds like the locals like their privacy... probably why they chose there to live?

    And many thanks for the tips and kind words... from one Jeff to another! Seriously, I'm Jeff when I'm driving a cage.
  6. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    to tell us Texans the Texas rules... go figure? You must be one of the lobbyists SKINNY referred to?

    Thanks, again, again, Cannonshot!
  7. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    or something like that? Perhaps the old Boy Scout motto fits better... Be Prepared.

    Just knowing they're there and realizing their insecurities make them want... NEED... for people to respect their authority. I call it the Barney Fife Syndrome. First time I've explained that... probably should've from the start with all the 'Barney' references?

    If you know that going in and treat them accordingly, you should have no problems? Realize if you even get close to smartass with em, they may sic their worst one on you!!????!!

    Whatever you do, don't not go because of my ramblings! You and your Buell would love FM170 from Lajitas to Redford... map it! It follows the Rio Grande much of the way and many of the straight sections that appear boring on the map would rival any roller coaster for G-outs! (not counting inverted ones) :huh
  8. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    , Just wanted to let you know - today I received my 2012 Social Security Stimulus Package.

    It contained two tomato seeds, a cornbread mix, a prayer rug, a machine to blow smoke up your ass, 10 coupons to KFC and an "Obama Hope" bumper sticker.

    The directions were in Spanish.

    Hope you get yours soon.
    Phread

    As I'm leaving the Telingua Abajo primitive campground, the strata turns drab army green...

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    The Terlingua Abajo road drops about 200' in elevation in 5 or so miles and goes through about a gazillion years geologically! A geologist could probably make a good estimate on that last number with this picture alone?

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    In fact, this looks suspiciously man made... perhaps some sort of geology study group on a field trip ? Surely not in the NP! Even in the picture. you can see how the green layer looks blasted out to the sides... like someone dashed a 5 thousand gallon bucket of water on it! Or used a power blaster. I'm tempted to park and check it out more closely, but after the chill I'd just given myself with 'what ifs', I am, quite honestly, afraid to leave the roadway.

    And while I'm being honest, I had a nightmare about getting shot in a Big Bend ruin last night. I was checking out an old Willys Jeep behind the ruin, when someone shouted... we had a heated argument, he pulls a gun... I woke up sweaty and didn't get back to sleep for an hour! I think I'll delve a little less deeply in the report today. Ain't it funny how everything gets all scrambled in dreams? My son will understand the Willys reference. For those following who don't... there's a rusty old Willys hardtop like the ones in old Tarzan movies that's on the property my son just bought in Arkansas. It's at the base of a hill below an old, burned out homestead. It apparently washed there in a flood years ago and lodged in some trees. A huge old oak that must've been at least 200 years old had fallen beside it... the fallen oak is so big, it's even visible on google earth! We've named it Willys Junction... a sweet, level spot where I've already winter camped... BEFORE it was ours... and worried about getting shot over it... some of that must've stuck! Everything got jumbled together with the 'what ifs' last night!

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    The Willys above and the old, fallen oak, below. I couldn't find a good pic of the fallen oak that showed it's size, but here's one that's still alive and well... and it's on our land! This one is about the same size as the fallen one. That's my son, PinItToWadIt. He rides a Wee, also.

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    The road curls right around the powerblasted hillside... this is the other side.


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    I turn back onto Old Maverick... in a cage, this would rattle the dashboard! Smooth as silk on Jessie... if you pick the correct line.

    Dick had sad he'd been to Santa Elena Canyon too many times to count. It was, without a doubt, his favorite spot in the Park. He said at daybreak or from 4 to dusk is the best time for pics in the canyon.


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    I stop for a pic that explains my differences with Cowtown Patty about Alamo Creek.

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    This is the confluence of Alamo Creek and Terlingua Creek and they're about to join the Rio Grande.

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    I'll have to run it by the landlords, but I have a good feeling they won't mind if I put it on Tent Space. ADV riders needing a place to spend the night can choose where to pitch their tent, either in the 'barndoyard' or at Willys Junction, take your pick! You might ask how I can be so sure they won't mind if I haven't even mentioned it? They're inmates... PinItToWadIt and k8E, my son and his beautiful wife.

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    Man, this spot is almost as cool as Willys Junction... which is about 1/4 mile from where my future 'Barndominium' will be! ;) Just off Honey Locust Drive to k8E Lane. We get to name all the trails we've already begun... I'll begin my lobbying here!


    While snapping these rolling shots, I realize I'm probably wasting camera battery since it's into the sun, but Intelligent mode does some pretty cool stuff with it sometimes.

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    Sometimes... NOT.

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    Sometimes it doesn't matter that much....

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    Sometimes it feels like it might just turn out to be the best photo op you've EVER faced! Kinda' gettin' that feelin' right here in that now!

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    I think this is the spot RoadDamage mentioned... if you could see the river flowing from right to left, it would probably make you feel dizzy and disoriented... it would look like it's running uphill!

    Where I'm standing for the shot would be a swirling, muddy whirlpool after a flash flood... the confuenuce of Terlingua and Alamo creeks with the Rio Grande. This year, I could probablly jump the river without getting wet. :(

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    But then... I'd be in Old Mexico! The baby boomin' rebel ridin' pillion on my left shoulder screams, "Is It In You" and "Just Do It!" and a bunch more baby boomer bacon earning slogans, that are, for the most part risky, if not down right dangerous in almost any situation! The frugal, old out of work carpenter on the right shoulder almost falls off trying to get to him to stifle him! He screams, "That crazy little psycho had a gun, genius... so StFU!!!"

    The main trail climbs a ways before going into the canyon. Since the water's low, I stay at river level as far as I can. I love to beachcomb. Never beachcombed an International Boundary before...

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    And the dwindling collective agree in unison by their ride report passitivity... not sure what to think, much less post here! In a cartoon, the collective's thought balloon would read:
    "This dude needs to talk to his out of work shrink buddy some more!"

    Gotta' go now... I have so many pics in the canyon, it'll take a while to figure which ones to post. With scenery such as is within the canyon, it's almost impossible to take a bad picture!




  9. SKINNY

    SKINNY Been here awhile Supporter

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    That is some funny shit!...:rofl

    Nice narrative too...I must have 50 photos of 5 different motorcycles in front of Santa Elena...it's my favorite place in the park , also...
    If we don't get some rain, you'll soon be able to walk to Mexico without getting wet...
  10. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    Thanks, SKINNY... it's my favorite spot in the Park, too!

    I get the feeling we'd get along great if we ever met up!?
  11. sandsman

    sandsman Shut up and ride!!!!

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    Now that is a hoot........just made that my status on FB.......

    Did you get to explore Terlingua, and Terlingua Cemetery? It's an awesome place to take pics.
    That is if you are into that kind of pics.

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  12. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    We're still waiting on that photo of King Kong's Lair...



    That joke was in my email this morning... made me grin, so I thought I'd share it here. It'll be all over the net soon.

    I planned to Saturday on the way back from Presidio and had a mishap at Controbando Creek... was in no mood for cemeteries or ghost towns when I past it on the way back to camp.
  13. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    At the end of the last entry, I joked about the 'dwindling collective'.

    The lack of activity doesn't bother me... the only reason I even mention it is I received another PM from pentUp, who's diggin' the dwindling interest. Here's how the latest PM read:

    "Ha... nobody wants to read about your bathroom activities much less your daydreams... sounds like YOU found the 'shrooms' you mentioned!"

    My main reason for doing this is for a handful of family members... and as it turns out, I'm having almost as much fun doing the report as I had on the trip!

    In fact... I've laughed 'til I cryed writing some of the bodily function puns... and you know what they say about laughter! And according to the latest studies, good preventative maintenance against alzheimers. 'Exercise the brain to prevent alzheimer drain'. Mine's done a marathon since I got home... and it's been a blast.

    Now... back to Santa Elena Canyon!


    As I mentioned, I dig beachcombing, especially under a pathway with lots of NP visitors. I used to scuba dive and found lots of junk under places with people traffic, but this comb is short and fruitless in that regard. As for the scenery... now that's another story!

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    The actual trail switchbacks to a natural ledge and follows that into the canyon.

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    There are guided overnight raft tours you can book to see the canyon in it's entirety. I'd love to do that, but not when the river's this low.

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    Another example of the illusion RoadDamage Rob referred to... with no flow to complete the illusion.

    Speaking of the devil...:wink: I certainly hope I din't piss RDR off with the 'poser pink' spraypaint remark WAAY back when in the Cadillac Ranch post?!!?

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    The flagging interest doesn't matter, but losing RoadDamage could damage the future possible wittiness of the report. I've seen his replies on many ride reports and they're usually hilarious... double entendres, stuff that makes you think... ya' know... good for ride reports and alzheimers!:D
    No lost human trinkets found while beachcombing, but I did find a healthy example of the fried looking cactus I showed on day 3. See it... bottom left center, growing out of rock, no less! They look almost hairy when healthy, in a burr haircut kinda' way.

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    Just a big heap of leftover stony materials... I like the Indian legend explanation... even moreso after finally meeting the lovely Elena and seeing her with my own eyes, instead of someone else's pictures! And we've only just begun... I plan to explore her depths and beauty until I just can't stand anymore! Or until I run out of camera battery... dang it.

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  14. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    I detest most tv ads... cancelled cable because of 'em! Even antennae tv seems like 50% ads... wouldn't be so bad if they didn't increase the volume level near double. You have to keep the remote handy to turn the sound up and down! Know what I mean!? Because of this, my TV stays on PBS most of the time.

    It was on in the background while I worked on the report this morning and Texas Country Reporter's opening segment was from Terlingua! It centered on a lady from Nome, Alaska who visited a couple years ago, bought a delapidated building and turned it into a bed & breakfast. She gushed about the friendly people, which was good to hear! I probably wouldn't mention this here on the forum, but decided the Big Bend locals might appreciate the heads up. You can still watch it online with a high speed connection.

    Still probalby wouldn't have put this up, if not for the final segment of the show. Near San Antonio, they've created a place for disabled vets to learn how to scuba dive. Once neutral bouyancy is achieved with a bcd (bouyancy control device), there's a weightless feeling that's like new found freedom for double amputees! I was moved to tears watching them give the war hardened soldiers 'piggyback' rides out of the water, seeing the obvious happiness the experience gave them... hearing them 'gush' about it afterwards! What a great way to say WELCOME HOME!

    This may not be the place for such things, but if one person who felt indifference toward Disabled Vets alters their viewpoint just a little from reading this...

    Please help support our wounded warriors!
  15. ROAD DAMAGE

    ROAD DAMAGE Long timer Supporter

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    Hey Phread, :clap

    Been out of touch for a little while. Been gettin' some throttle therapy myself now that it is warming up. :D But I'm now all caught up, and still along for the ride until the end. And thanks for the kind words a few pages back. As usual, I'm just trying to have a little fun .........

    Speaking of which, where the heck are you? Back home yet? Already making sawdust?

    Between you and Cannonshot and the other BB ride reports, it would seem that it's been busy with traffic down there. I really didn't bump into too many other bikes when I was down there last April. Do you think that BBNP & BBRSP are slowly getting more popular with the dual sport and ADV crowd? Seems so to me, but I don't get down there often enough to be a good judge of such things.

    Curious to see the remainder of your report. It's been an awfully entertaining RR for me so far. Really enjoying it.

    Gracias Amigo!

    Rob
  16. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    in Steamboat Springs in March?!

    Glad to have you back... feared I'd painted you the wrong color at the Ranch!?

    Yea... I could only stay a week... Jessie now wants to move there! I finally start cutting tomorrow... the house has been coming along slowly. It's hard to put on a roof in 60 mph winds... 'tis the season. (Bing Crosby crooning, "I'm dreaming of a brown... springtime...") Should be able to move into the 2nd one as soon as the first is finished... the best way to make good money in this business!

    That was my first time there, so I'm not a good judge, either. I did meet several ADVers in Study Butte and saw several groups in the park Saturday and Sunday. SKINNY has the skinny on the region (appropriately named ADVer) appears to be the man to talk to about the BB area.

    I haven't added any new installments the last 2 days... been editing and re-wording... even added some bodily function stuff for pentUp! The collective may want to re-read from p. 6... I'll try to put up some more Santa Elena in the morning. I've discovered it's best to proof read the stuff I write at night the next morning before uploading.
  17. sandsman

    sandsman Shut up and ride!!!!

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    I'm feeling a yearning for a road trip in my near future........BBNP weather forcaste looks super for this week......It's 600 miles from my front door to the middle of the park. Now that the bike is together......Man, 2 bikes just came by my house.....and it's 1:15 am here...... Back to my thought....BBNP for some R and R......yeah.
    :ricky
  18. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]

    When I went to Guadalupe NP last year, I'd never done much hiking. Can't cover enough ground for my tastes. But the only way to get to the top of Texas is by foot. I started the 9 mile roundtrip early to beat the wind and heat. Nearing the top of the first long, switchback section, I was overtaken by an Aggie who was practically running. I decide to keep his pace and zipped right through the Madrone zone without even seeing them! I finally stopped for some jaw dropping pictures and lost the race to the top.

    That's what hiking meant to me... pick a destination and doggedly long stride there and back, hardly pausing to take in the scenery!

    Gary Clark has a segment in his BB book about this called Butterfly Hiking. My hiking style was much like his!

    BUTTERFLY HIKING

    For most of my life, my style of hiking was to make a beeline to a destination. If I was headed up to Boot Canyon in the high Chisos Mountains, I went straight up the Pinnacles Trail as fast as possible because it was the shortest route. If I wanted to hike to the Window Trail, my idea was to get to the pour-off at the base of the Window as quickly as my feet would take me. No dawdling, no stopping to look at a flower or tree, not even a bird unless it was one I had never seen before. Hiking was like a race to a finish line, and I was a fabulously fast hiker. Sightseeing for me was at the destination-a canyon, a mountaintop, a mountain rim, a peculiar rock formation in the middle of the desert, or a waterfall tucked in a mountainside. Nothing along the trail was worth stopping to see. The trail was a means to an end, and the end was what mattered.

    My wife, Kathy, had a wholly different style of hiking, one I dubbed "butterfly hiking." She would zigzag languidly like a butterfly all over the trail, stopping here and there to look at a bug, smell a flower, examine a rock, or feel the texture of a tree leaf between her fingers. As a professional nature photographer, she would also snap a picture of... well... everything. Drove me nuts. But I would always wait patiently- okay, impatiently- for her to catch up with me at the end of the trail.

    One day on a hike down the Window Trail, I indulged her by strolling beside her in the "butterfly hiking" technique. Or maybe she indulged me. Anyway, what I came to realize was that I had been a numbskull hiker for years, passing up exquisite beauties of nature in senseless haste down a trail. Kathy had been the smarter hiker all along. She would study the oblong leaf shape of a Gray's oak and rub her hand over the leaf's sandpaper-like surface. She would examine tracks in the mud along the trail, often discerning paw prints of a mountain lion. No butterfly escaped her glance, and she would take stunning pictures of butterflies like California sisters and empress leilias. She would bend over to cup her fingers around a flower like an Apache plume, a showy white flower that produces a feathery fruit. Rock outcrops that were obstacles to me would rivet her attention. While I whizzed past a common bird, like a cactus wren, she would stop to find its nest, a ball of grass and twigs stuck snuggly in the middle of a cholla cactus or yucca tree. By the time Kathy reached the end of a trail, she had already enjoyed a glorious adventure by opening her senses to Big Bend's spectacular array of natural treasures. While I hiked like a marathon runner, she hiked like an archeologist, relishing every scrap of life and every shard of rock along the trail. I've been a "butterfly hiker" ever since that day I deigned to walk at my wife's pace. I learned a lesson not only about hiking in Big Bend but also about living life: most of us spend too much energy rushing to the end of the trail, rarely pausing to savor what is on it.
     
    Gary Clark. Enjoying Big Bend National Park: A Friendly Guide to Adventures for Everyone (W.L. Moody, Jr., Natural History) (Kindle Locations 185-188). Kindle Edition.


    As I head into Santa Elena Canyon, I remind myself to try out my new style of hiking... butterfly hiking. I quickly reach the top of the switchbacks to the natural ledge into the canyon, and have to remind myself to slow down. I stop and scan the rocks beside the trail... and am rewarded! A canyon wren, I think!

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    I do a slow circle in one spot, opening all my senses wide... not just my eyes.

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    I've whined about toilet paper a couple times in this report... I'd wipe with ocotillo branches if it would guarantee the river would come back up to normal levels!

    Even the plants with signage about them are dying in the drought! And within sight of water, no less!!

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    Hey, this butterfly style is working... and I begin to see the exquisite beauty of nature all around me! How I long to do it just like Kathy Clark! Feel the sinuous curves... breathe deeply the delicate fragrances, eagerly delve deeper to seek out hidden treasures! But I can't this time... I think she's married! :eek1

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    Yep... it's past time for Phread to engage in some intimate feminine contact!

    It's also time to get to work... it's been so long, I'm actually looking forward to it!?!?

    Much more Santa Elena in the next installment.


  19. Phattyre-Phready2

    Phattyre-Phready2 Been here awhile

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    It's spring break... the busiest week of the year in Big Bend! Thought you were going to Beaver Bend SP? I stayed there once on my way to Arkansas and it's beautiful there in the southwest corner of the Ouachita National Forest!

    Hope the hack runs true!

    Phread
  20. MizzouRider

    MizzouRider Long timer Supporter

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    Sorry for the delay. Everything went alright on my buddies ambulance ride etc.. There were enough of us on the ride that three guys went back for a pickup to haul out his bike. He was on a DR 650, I think. Lost his windshield, I think he took it out as he went over the bars. The rest of the damage seemed minor. His wife and daughter had to drive down and take his truck and bikes back home. He was in the hospital up in Alpine for a few nights.
    We all got back together over in the park and had a spirited run down old ore road.
    That wasn't our only crash.. I dropped mine on the last 100 yards of gravel at the end of day four. We had run the river road, then black gap, then back down to the river road the other way. As I was looking at the end of the trip, lost my concentration and went into the last turn way to hot.. Low sided it..:cry
    Ended up with two fractures in my fibula.. Not a bad get off. I was up and walking, and back on the bike before anyone could get a pic.. Ha (be back on a bike in a few weeks, no cast just a boot/brace thing..)
    Here's my pic of a buddy coming up KK Hill.. Of course, it does not look that steep. Not sure it is all that steep, unless you are walking up it in 90+ degree temps in full ATGATT.
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    Thanks again for taking the time to post your RR.. :clap