Should work like this. Make sure C is out like your instructions say. If you can say what year make and model of motorcycle it is you can search Alternator removal for xyz and you may find videos or instructions.
in my experience, once the inner bolt is quite snug, striking its head smartly with a soft hammer will pop the flywheel loose. sometimes it must be tightened and struck again.
Hold sleeve with wrench. Tighten bolt with another wrench. That will press into the crank and pull or press off the rotor. If it's really tough. strike the bolt with a dead blow hammer. The shock usually convinces the rotor to break free and come off. You're striking the bolt not the rotor.
Yes keep tightening the inner bolt - the whole point of that tool is to use the bolt to push against the crank - the outer piece is threaded into the rotor and pulls the rotor off. Don't lose the woodruff key when you pull off the rotor. Never had to hit one with a hammer to take off the rotor on any of the 6 bikes I have done it on in my garage, but I use an impact driver on the inner bolt
This is likley fine for many bikes, but not so fine for those with magnets glued in place . . . . you KNOW how I know
impact wrench is a bull shit in this application. i've turned wrenches for many years but feel it is a waste of time to post in the garage because children must learn the expensive way.
Grease the threads on the puller bolt. It'll protect the threads and make it easier to tighten. With tapers, some will come easily, and others will require a shock. Use a brass faced hammer. It won't booger up the puller. Watch for the key so it doesn't fall into the engine. I like to turn the crank so the key is at the top. When you re-assemble it, if the key is loose, use a center punch on the side of the key to raise up the metal so the key fits tightly in the keyway and doesn't slide out of place as the rotor is installed.
Yep....I did not think they'd put that warning there for no reasons. I tend to listen to any warnings nowadays,gets expensive fast if they are true. They usually are....! Still like to know the why....Google is good for that. http://www.physlink.com/education/askexperts/ae472.cfm Maybe I'll go whack a magnet in the shop.
Well, sh#t on me. There is some good heat in there too, probably up to 250 deg F from the oil. High enough to demagentize? Nope, need around 750 deg F and above. Don't hammer the rotor magnets! Hammering or jarring: the mechanical disturbance tends to randomize the magnetic domains. This will leave some residual magnetization.
Well some magnets sure are brittle. One little tap randomized it all right! Not a clue yet on measuring magnetism accurately and if banging can reduce it ever just so slightly to f....up an alternator but I know where there are a few rotors. I may just bang one this week and put some weights to it before and after. I miss banging on things....too many warnings "not to" nowadays.
