Super Sherpa thread

I appreciate any suggestions.

I'm just sitting here going through the manual & I believe before anyone does any work they should probably read the service manual!

For instance : I drilled out the plug to get to the mixture screw "the manual says it's a pilot screw" & the manual says: turn in the pilot screw fully but not tightly, and then back it out the same number of turns counted during disassembly. "It also says to install a new plug in the pilot screw hole & apply a small amount of bonding agent to fix it in place again. I wonder if this would effect performance at all ?

What fuel valve ?

I think I might try putting the original main back in #127.5 with the #30 pilot & see what I get.

No.

Fuel tank valves on this bike, and its bigger brother the KLR are known to have issues with vacuum. Most are replaced, or a block off plate is installed to remove the vacuum function.

Both bikes have the same pos fuel vent in the cap. Both my wife's Sherpa, and the KLR I owned had problems with the flapper valves not always venting. They generate a symptom similar to running out of gas-a lean type miss-that is improved when the choke is pulled.

I replaced the petcock with a different one that is not vacuum operated, & that wasn't the problem, I've also rode it with the gas cap open & that wasn't the problem.

Sorry, I hadn't read far enough back in your posts to catch that you had run with the cap open.

I may have missed this, but what happens if when it starts missing, you open throttle?

Yes if I open the throttle or drive faster it doesn't happen. It seems to happen though after it warms up, & it feels like a power loss at times. Other times it will be kind of a jerking, or hesitation thing shutting nearly all the way off & if you're not ready it could throw you.

I'm not sure if changing the pilot jet improved the condition yet it's too early to tell. I think I'll go ahead & go back to the original main though & see what happens.

Well I put the stock 127.5 main jet back in & test rode. It has noticeably less power but seems smoother through the gears. I still have the same issue it seems but not at lower speeds around 35 or so like before I put the 30 pilot in. It might be a little premature to say but I think the issue is now between 45 & 60 give or take a few mph.

I left the mixture screw where it was at two full turns out, & it seems like it might be a little harder to start.

Based upon my continued symptoms and the luck people were reporting with the rejeting, I bought a #35 pilot jet, pulled the carb, did a very thorough carb cleaning, spraying all orifices, soaking the bowl and the original jets, installed the 35 pilot and (the original) 127.5 main, turned the mixture screw to 2 turns out, put it all back together.... And ...

It is fixed!

No choke needed on this 80 degree day. No bogging when I open the throttle after starting. No missing while idling. No hiccups. No surging or faltering. No afterfire. No hanging revs while shifting. I open the throttle, and it responds smoothly and with more power than I could have expected. The bike runs wonderfully.

Thanks to everyone who has posted with suggestions, Rx4 (Ken) for researching the larger jets, and the rest of you who tried the various combinations.

Brian

There is one other thing that I didn't think would be a problem but I'll mention it & see what you guys think.

I took the choke cable apart at the dash & a tiny spring came out & I couldn't get it back in. The choke still works but it did feel a bit funny afterwards.

When turning the mixture screw which way leans ?
which way rich ?

If you were looking right at the screw, clockwise brings it in and leans out the mixture. Standing beside the bike on the left side, using a right angle ratcheting screwdriver, pushing towards the rear tire tighten/leans it out. That upside down thing always forces me to think about it.

ignition and carb problems can mimic each other, if the bike is over 10 years old,replace the plug cap and lead.

Well I put the 130 main back in, & turned it in about a 1/4 turn or so. going to take it out & see how it does. Report Later.

Is there supposed to be a cap on the spark plug or not ? I'm talking about the thing that screws on to the threaded stud. It doesn't show one in the service manual & there doesn't appear to be room for it either in the sparkplug boot.

The cap is the L-shaped boot that fits onto the spark plug. There isn't room for the little metal fitting that comes on some spark plugs.

I couldn't remember if the original spark plug had one on it & I forgot to put it on the new one but I don't think there is supposed to be one on it.

After the test ride the power is back, & the stumbling is still there too.

I rode up town to a car show tonight, and my surging, stumbling, stuttering, what ever you want to call it is pretty minor, and I just tried different speeds to find the worst spot.

when I got home a got a can of carb cleaner and sprayed around on the boots, vacuum cap, and throttle shaft, I could get it to kill the bike, I have a .35 jet coming, when it gets here I will also do a carb disassembly and clean while installing it.