KLR 650 Headlight guard/shield / stone guard 08+

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by salty_monk, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    454
    Location:
    Redondo Beach, California
    08+ KLR650 Headlight Guard / Shield / Stoneguard

    All mail to:

    adventureshield(at)mail(dot)com please. Please mention ADV in the subject so I can record the donation & make sure it goes to the right forum!

    This email address also works for Paypal, contact me if you want to send a Check.

    Please read the full story below before ordering one of these. I did not do this as a commercial venture more a "bulk buy" because nothing existed on the market. Please go easy on me! I will do my best to keep everyone happy.

    Price (including Well nuts, brass insert type) & stainless hardware $4, $6 Site donation) $50. (The net price of the guard is $40)
    USPS flat rate Shipping incl insurance is $14 priority. I can get two in a box so if you want two, do the maths & send the right amount).
    I did a Parcel Post to NY & it came back with $9 plus insurance brings it to about $11.50. If you want check parcel post to your address then it’s shipping from 90277.

    For most people this means you'll need to send me $64.

    Canada - Shipping is $24 priority 6-10 days. I can get two in a flat rate box at $28 if you have a mate close by. There is a first class snail service but I am yet to see if they will let me ship these on it. I should know more next year :rofl

    If you're out of the US or Canada let me know, we'll figure it out. For the English you'll have to pay me danger money to deal with Royal Mail or should that be Insignia oh no wait...... (I'm from London originally).

    No fees (personal Paypal or Check preferred) but if we have to give Paypal their cut then so be it.

    A lot of people have been waiting for this since seeing some initial pictures I posted, thanks for your patience.

    Having these manufactured has been an interesting experience. I had a lot of problems finding someone to take it on due to the complex bends involved.

    I now have a decent quantity of them available.

    Due to aforementioned complex bends and manufacturing tolerances (both at my manufacturer & the "mesh" or "wire grid" supplier) these are not perfect. Most of them show some irregularities in the mesh.
    Due to the line up of the mesh access to the bolt holes was restricted. My manufacturer has solved this problem by providing access holes but it again has led to some visual irregularities.

    I have been in (somewhat heated) discussion with my manufacturer this last couple of days & we got to the point where we can be sure that this exact design will not be made ever again. If another run does become a possibility there will be some changes which will change the look a little (although not the fit, they would still use the same holes). It will also add some additional cost.
    THIS IS THE CHEAPEST RUN. IF THERE ARE ANY FUTURE RUNS COSTS WILL INCREASE.

    To help soothe me on this run I did get a small discount which I will be passing straight through to you guys. These should have been in the region of $75-80 incl site donation, hardware, shipping etc.

    Some irregularities might be more acceptable to some than others so if necessary I can send detailed pictures of the actual guard I will post to you for approval before anyone is out of pocket but they are all much the same.

    In short mesh irregularities are not a reason to send these back to me. Any other issues found we can deal with case by case but apart from this they appear very good. The ones I have fitted as a test to my bike fit very well. (Note that they can also be tweaked quite easily to fit exactly how you want them to fit- useful if the drill slips a bit on start or something).

    I want this to be as simple as possible for everyone.

    I have posted pictures below that show about the worst of what I have. The differences cannot really be noticed once on the bike. The irregularities you will see are:

    1. Cut-outs to allow bolt head access – these are not always cut the same on both sides.
    2. The mesh isn’t always lined up 100% central to the centre of the frame.

    There are a couple with minor scratched powdercoat that I will let go $10 cheaper if anyone is interested (Fedex can be blamed for that!)

    I hope everyone has had a great Christmas & I wish everyone all the best for the new year. :cheers:


    This is as good as they get: (I am sending out the best ones on a first come first served basis)

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    These are about as bad as they get:

    Note access holes on the right that are not there on the left. Mesh slightly off centre.

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    This last set shows similar to the above, just cut a slightly different way:

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    These last 2 pics are again similar, cut outs are slightly different:

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    #1
  2. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    454
    Location:
    Redondo Beach, California
    Pics on the bike:

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    #2
  3. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Fitting instructions:


    1. Apply masking tape down the sides of the fairing (On the black part where it joins the coloured part). This makes it easier to mark & helps to stop the drill from slipping.
    2. Hold the guard in place by hand & mark the bolt holes with a pencil/pen.
    3. Drill the holes. Start SMALL! Max 1/8" drill to start & take it very slowly with light pressure. You are drilling through 3mm of plastic not steel. Make sure the drill does not penetrate deeper than 15mm (Just over 1/2"). At 20mm penetration you'll be drilling the edge of your light unit! You can do this easily with 1/4" of drill penetration or less if careful so there is room there. One trick is to apply a big lump of tape on your drill so it physically can't penetrate more than 1/4".
    4. Move up drill sizes in stages until you get to 3/8". Moving in stages helps allow you to use light pressure & avoid allowing the drill to penetrate too far.
    5. Push the Well nuts into the holes. They should be pretty tight. Twisting as you push sometimes helps.
    6. Hold the guard in place, insert the bolts & tighten. You do not need much torque on these, you are only deforming the rubber & you do not want the bolt to reach a "stop". They are the same as your windshield fixings so treat them the same.
    Because the deformed rubber is acting like a spring in this instance you do not need threadlock on these bolts (In fact that would make them almost impossible to remove intact in the future).

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    #3
  4. subybaja

    subybaja Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
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    Location:
    Anchorage (Spenard)
    Bump for a great idea!

    Do you actually need the boltholes in the screen? I'd think you could worm the bolts through the mesh without them...but then I don't have one in my hand. Or you could use smaller-head Allen bolts with washers...
    #4
  5. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    In a perfect world... no you don't but the first prototype they did for me was almost impossible to tighten the bolts on.

    If I were to get another run made there would be a few design changes to solve that issue & the issue of lining up the mesh but it will also increase costs. :norton

    Thanks for the bump :clap
    #5
  6. torgo

    torgo Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    94
    Bump


    Emailed you

    Nice work, gotta farkle,, gotta farkle:clap
    #6
  7. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2007
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    3,426
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    Eastern WA State
    Looks great!

    Hodakaguy
    #7
  8. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    Thanks! Still have a few left if anyone is in need. :D
    #8
  9. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    Just bumping this up to the top :ear

    Some nice new pics as well :)

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    #9
  10. J.L. Poe

    J.L. Poe Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    Colorado Springs,CO
    I noticed a price, plus a contribution on the klr650 board

    Is that true here too!

    I'm in Colorado springs Salty
    #10
  11. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    Yes, I'll donate some $$ to the board for each one sold from here. It wasnt requested but I feel it's the right thing to do. :)
    #11
  12. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    Bumping this back to the top, still have a few of these left if anyone wants one.

    I will not be getting any more made so once they're gone they're gone. :freaky
    #12
  13. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    A Valentines week Bump... :D
    #13
  14. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    Bumping this back to the top. I have some with a small powdercoat chip on the mesh that can go for $45 shipped.

    :clap
    #14
  15. Hammerspur

    Hammerspur Long timer

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    Location:
    Cranston, RI
    Salty... Do you or anyone else here know where I might find a stone guard like this for my DR350?
    Been searching the net for days, can't find any that would fit, Dammit! :becca
    If I could locate mesh like this, steel or stainless, I'd make my own:

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    #15
  16. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    #16
  17. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    Just bumping this up for the weekend. :)
    #17
  18. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    Still have a few of the better ones, now going for $56 Shipped.

    Some with a small 1/8" powdercoat scratch on the mesh (thanks Fedex) going for $45 shipped.

    :ear
    #18
  19. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    BTTT! :1drink

    Still have a few of the better ones, now going for $55 Shipped.

    Some with a small 1/8" powdercoat scratch on the mesh (thanks Fedex) going for $45 shipped.

    This is to the US 48 or Canada. (First class to Canada - no tracking).
    #19
  20. salty_monk

    salty_monk Been here awhile

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    Aug 16, 2009
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    Redondo Beach, California
    Bump :freaky :clap
    #20