New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Interesting! I'm just having a hard time believing that the clutch is burned. Call me crazy, but I believe the first clutch should outlast the first tire :huh

Someone did a nice write-up but I think it was lost in the megathread blow-up. It's an easy procedure, some notes from memory:

--Obviously you'll be changing the oil too, so plan for that
--Go ahead and soak the clutch discs when you get them. I think the kit says they need to soak for at least 2 hours?
--You'll have to pull the footpeg mount (3 bolts) and the cover (9 bolts)
--The outermost section of the pack has a convex-shaped ring and a half-size friction disk. Pay attention to which side of the ring is facing out. The remaining stuff is just alternating friction/steel disks.
--Before disassembly note the arrow on the pressure plate (see pic below--it's pointing straight up) that lines up with a notch in the clutch pack. (I think it's a notch--i'll have to consult the service manual)
--The service manual recommends using a factory tool (screws with a shoulder on them) to hold everything together during assembly. It's not necessary but it was a bit fussy getting everything lined up during reassembly. Not a big deal
--Finally the bolts on the cover are 3 different sizes. There's 1 long, 2 medium, and then the rest are short. See the pic below.

Thanks. Doesn't seem too hard. I think I'll contact the dealer in the morning. Too bad he's 3 hours away. But I just feel this is a warranty issue. I'm both old and slow, and there's no way it should have gone this quickly.

I think that anything that fits the stock lever will work (may want to wait for confirmation). The CSE pedal uses the 2 bolts from the top to install the tip. I used the stock tip since I still had it. Looks like the Touratech folding tip MAY work (give em a call to make sure): http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/...ing-brake-lever-attachment-kit-KTM-690-Enduro

Cheers,

MrHix

You have some cheaper options then the touratech part... probably stronger also.
http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-690-rally-replica-oversized-brake-tip
http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-690-950-990-black-brake-lever-step-plate

Sorry guys, I didn't mean to start a fight on the pedals, just to provide another opinion, which apparently some others here share.

Anyway, in france the stock pedal is ~3x cheaper than the stronger pedals (incl delivery and taxes). I have protected the engine case with the glue-on side protector from G-it (I busted a hole there falling on a rock, costly repair, learnt the lesson and added the protection, and it now also protects the engine case from the twisting brake pedal). I also guess that KTM has made the pedals weak for a reason, not just to sell lots of them every year. I also understand that for some riders it is too weak, and a stronger unit is better.

If the stronger brake pedal was only slightly more expensive than the stock unit, and if it was designed to bend or break BEFORE twisting the footpeg bracket or frame, then I would buy it. Has anyone bent or broken the RR or CS pedals?

Just back from the Hellas rally. Bike performed flawlessly, no maintenance needed. Replaced air filter once (was not really dirty) and mounted my spare wheel because the rocks ate my rear tire for lunch. Became 3rd in my class (a lot of 690's).

There is 32 Gb of video footage awaiting editing.....

Once is enough

Aftermarket was cheaper than stock piece for me :huh. I had not considered the brake pedal being designed to fail to spare other more expensive bits so it's good to hear both sides of the discussion on whether stronger is better. I ended up going with stronger part in this case, but also added the adv-spec covers to protect the cases.

I'd be interested to hear if anyone has had a problem with the aftermarket piece causing damaged to the mounting point.

Is there anybody on this forum who has had frame damage or at least damaged the brake pedal mount while using the Rally Raid or Cleanspeed brake pedals on their 690?

I believe I speak for myself when i say no.

The hit would have to be significant...and such a hit is likely to destroy a lot of other pieces...including the rider...in the process.

The mounting point is not part of the steel frame but part of a bolt on aluminum piece that is mounted with 3 bolts to the frame. Though I am sure its possible to hit the brake pedal in such a way that frame damage would occur...but I suspect its such a rare scenario you are unlikely to see it.

Lukas,

I had a minor spill on that bent the touratech folding tip but didn't do damage to either the pedal or frame.

Jeff

08 690

4 long and one short code.... already chged the fuel pump... w/ ca cycle pump...

failed last fall no codes, I'm sure someone has the video for that..:huh failed in my drive way a month or more ago setting the 4L1S code, chged the fuel pump... had a grnd failure a week ago, fixed that easily, then failed again yesterday 4L1S code again.... wtf........................:huh

no sound from the fuel pump to be heard..........

Lukas,

In 3 years of selling our Billet Rear Brake Pedal,I have never heard of one causing damage to the alloy footrest hanger.We have never had a pedal break,only a couple of the pressed steel tips flatten,and we sell those as a spare part.

As with all things,its a personal decision,but we sell as many Billet Front Sprocket Protecters/Clutch cylinder protector,and you could argue that if a stone went through it and wedged between the sprocket,then it could break the screws into the crankcases,whereas the OEM plastic one might break/deform......as I said,it's the riders choice.

Personally,I want something fitted to the bike that is not going to break easily on a long trip,and let me down.

ktmmitch:

When are you guys gonna put out some decals/graphics for the Evo-2 Tanks Only (No Fairing)?

Thanks, Dan

PS Loving the kit. Top notch.

We should have them next week.....

Teaser?

Two questions:

1. Back in the dark ages on this thread, there was a discussion on what to do about fairing screws spinning the nuts in the gas tank. I've looked in my notes and I can't find what the consensus solution was. Mine are spinning and there doesn't look to be any room in the nut well to get any JB Weld (or similar) in there to lock them down. Should I put the screw back in without the fairing as far as I can and then lever them out, fill the cavity with JB and then set them back in to cure? What's the websitewisdom say?

2. Also, I can't find anything that screws into the smaller, middle screw hole in the picture. Was that something that was removed when my dealer did the canisterectomy, or something? Any idea what was there or what it is that I'm missing?



Thanks,



Lee...

That hole is empty on my 2013, and I think I found a picture in the owners manual also showing it empty.