The Africa Twin XRV650 & XRV750 thread

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Don't confuse your Honda AT with a KTM waterpump that can be prone to leaks and failures. Honda built a bulletproof waterpump on the AT and got it right the first time.

On the other hand they never got the fuel pump right...

I'd get a facet if I were you... Speaking of which, I have some issues with this pump above ~150 - 160 kph.. Is it just me?

I have short (millisecond-long) fuel cuts above those speeds. They are noticeable and very frequent when they start, as soon as I ease off the throttle and get below 150, everything goes back to normal.. I am pretty sure it's the fuel pump since this started at my previous @ after installing the pump, which I transfered to the new @ as I had been convinced that the OEM will go bad sooner or later. Lo and behold, The new bike presented the same symptoms.. I haven't tried to fix it as I rarely go beyond those speeds but it's a bit annoying when I do want to get some air under my wings...

Well I pushed my Africa twin a little to hard and need some help. Here is the ride report http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773998

The motor is running great but I have zero drive to the rear wheel. No idea if it is clutch, transmission or output shaft related but wondering what you guys think and where you think I should start looking... Cheers

Nice report. I think I would have turned back after the fork protectors popped off. You had the old girl labouring pretty good trough that sticky mud and going uphill at the same time. It's highly probable your clutch is glazed from the heat and is burnt.
Get a whole kit here. 90-03 Honda XRV750 Africa Twin 750 EBC clutch friction ...
Ask for the heavy duty springs (separate) if you order from those guys. Made by EBC so p/n CSK6 (5 total) for the springs and Friction plate p/n CK1167 (7 total) if you want to buy local. Honda friction discs are a bit more exspensive FYI. Also you will need a new clutch nut (90 ft lbs tq) and side cover gasket. Also I would change the oil shortly after you install the new kit in order to give it a good flush.

I know how to fix that....slow down. I rarely go over 140 kph (87 mph).... You know....it may be the pump...or may not be...but it could be that it is just a bit shy of pressure to keep up. Make any difference when the tank is full or not? Change the fuel filter maybe?

It's item #7 and it's called a clutch cable guide...and mines broke. My illustrated parts book shows it but for some reason won't list it's p/n. It might be because it is part of the Key Set/Switch assy...or does anybody have one lying around? I gotta keep the old girl original ya know...can't be putting haywire in there.

GSPD: 50189-MY1-000 Guide, Cluth Cable

http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/h...ck_01=13MY1P41&block_02=F__0500&block_03=7340

Please note that you might need to adapt the mounting... for your model, this guide is only available with the ignition switch set...

I am wondering if it might be more the transmission...I hope not... I have the chain free now and can push the bike but even when put in gear there is no resistance and I can push it freely. I would have thought if it was the clutch the bike would still engage as if in gear. Is it possible the clutch is preventing this and is acting as if it is always pulled in?

Thanks for that! I also checked Lings for the part # however the OEM # would not come up for my model. :huh
I'll call my honda dealer and see if it's a good number for them. cheers!

I would bet your transmission is just fine....at least you hope so as you don't want to split the cases. For it not to go into gear their must be something amiss with the shifter mechanism to prevent it (my guess)....possibly a bent shifter shaft from kicking it into gear in the mud.

Item #10 is your shifter shaft which goes thru the engine. The hook on the end shifts the cogs #6 on the shifter drum. Something can't be right there...as it should shift for you into gear regardless of the state of the clutch. To get at the hook and the cog you have to remove the clutch and oil pump (easy peasy) and the shaft can be replaced without splitting the cases if it is damaged.

How does your oil look on the dipstick? Burnt? Clutch particles in the oil?

Where would you source the nut and gasket from?

Your local Honda dealer should be able to get it for you as this engine shares many parts with the Honda Shadow....same crank etc...

r/h side cover gasket 11394-MV1-850
clutch nut 90231-MM5-000

The clutch nut could be used over again, however it is staked and is recommended you only use it once.

Or you can order from http://www.servicehonda.com/order-parts/already-have-a-part-number

Punch in your #'s and checkout. I think they are out of Indiana...but your local Honda Dealer should be able to get them.

Got the springs and plates ordered. Will contact a dealer tomorrwo for the other parts. Cheers

Guys does anyone have a nice clear pic of the couter sproket and all the pieces that would go to mouting it up? When I pulled mine off other than the sprocket the washers and keeper look pretty thrashed. Cheers

ok going open a real can of worms here

the older @ had single disks, great nto problem, were they the same diameter as the twin disk models?

curious as whats stopping someone just using 1 disk off the twin disk. i know its small disk but i have seen plenty bikes with similar disk sizes on similar weight bikes.

that or can i get a much much larger disk to fit the @ hub

Hello Reidy...Do you have the Haynes Manual? Their are some good pics on page 6-26 or you can look at the following items #20 and #21. Their are no washers...only the plate and 2 bolts. Your right, the fixing plate can get a bit thrashed so I would just order a new one...and the 2 bolts while your at it. Your dealer should have those...plate p/n 23811-MV1-000 and bolts p/n 90118-958-003. Clean the threads on the sprocket and apply some Loctite on those bolts prior to install.

You sorta need that sprocket on their to hold the crank (in gear and standing on the brake) whilst you remove the clutch nut...but you can't get it into gear can you? If you have'nt got the clutch nut off already then try fiddling hard with the shifter up and down until you find a gear.

Clutch nut is a 30 mm socket...1/2" drive works best with 1/2" drive breaker bar...or better yet an air or electric impact gun and that sucker will whiz right off...of course while you try to hold the crank still. Better yet...rather than standing on the brake in gear is if you have an old front sprocket with some cheater bars attached/welded to it somehow and thereby holding the crank.

Yeah...your clutch was probably close to being worn to limits anyhow ...this is all just routine maintenance on these beasts. Got all that mud off yet?

The RD03s had a single disc that is the same size as the Transalp single.

It's larger than the dual disc on those models. Dunno the measurement off the top. However, the 320 mm disc from the Honda NT650 will bolt right to the wheel (6 bolt pattern). Then you have to make an adapter to space out the caliper. This is a common TA mod and improves front braking dramatically.

As far as I remember, RD03 have bigger rotor than single TA one.
6 bolt pattern on hub is same.

ah now i like the sound of this

1 thing, will a 6 hole nt650 disk fit a 4 hole hub