fronts pads are G rated pads so one doesn't lock up the front wheel too easlily off road. HH rated pads are avail which will provide better braking, but also more chance of locking up that skinny tire even on the street. I have never had a problem hauling her down quickly fully loaded including myself about 210lbs fully geared up. are u using both front and back brakes effectively?
I'm curious why you're so loyal considering that the stock petcock can cause a complete and total engine failure - which in the case of these bikes means you're better off just buying a whole new bike. The Yamaha one serves exactly the same purpose and the only noticeable difference is there's a tiny bit less clearance between the tank and the lever. For $22 I think its worth going Yamaha.
We stayed with the OEM petcocks for convenience's sake. It's worth the money when we make a great number of small errands on the bikes.
What's convenient about the stocker? That you don't have to turn it off? Really you don't have to turn off any petcock since the float valve will shut off any incoming fuel as soon as the bowl is full. I always leave my petcocks on during riding days and only turn it off if I know its going to be a few days before I ride again. Never had a single leak.
Hey Klay, I just replaced a faulty OEM petcock on my 2007. My inclination is usually not to alter from stock but I could not find a rebuild kit and saw no point in shelling out $100 for another OEM petcock. Instead I got the (current) Yamaha replacement petcock (Part # 23F-24500-20-00) for $20.28, shipped, from Partzilla.com. I also got a small pack of variously sized vacuum plugs from Autozone for 2 or 3 bucks. It was a perfect fit, bolted in without any modification, and came with a new O ring. I am glad to have made the change. Rick
I was hoping the world would wake up and supply some more parts for our rides but I guess not yet I did read earlier the debate between the OEM and non-vacuaum (non-suck )models. and now debate again sorry so lets stay civil not that anyone hasn't so far. I agree with Klay my personal opinion -- its made for it, mine has worked for 12,000 miles plus sucking gas at 6300 to 7000 rpms 98% of time, the vacuam 'switch' cuts gas off when the bike slips out from under me and the motor dies (smaller ball of fire) . I am lazy and it is great not switching at all (except at 60mph to reserve) and other reasons that I don't know yet but you can't beat "jus cuz" . i'am confused on how the vacuam can cause some catastrophic failure to the engine that the non-suck ones won't. a small point is that the vacuam line is somewhat separated from the fuel sorta due to the weep hole in the switch piece (where mine is leaking from), other then the off position (oem does not have) which some people don't use unless down for long time, oem is better there sorta. my problem is that nobody makes a rebuild kit like other rides it ain't right somebody made the parts why can't they be purchased!!!!! just my bull$hit
I'm not going to debate it as it's not my money or my bike. I'm just saying if I bought a car and the dealer told me "btw there's a 0.0001% chance your engine will blow up unless you push this button every time you start it", I'd be friggin religious about pushing that button. Not "it's really inconvenient to spend 0.2 seconds pushing a button and it hasn't blown up yet so meh". But to each their own.
I bought the bike last year used with 8,400 miles on it. The previous owner didnt do much maintenance on it and let it go. I just dont know when they are supposed to be replaced(I dont have a maintenance Manual) so Slowly I've been replacing (key safety) items to make sure they are good to go. Ok, so I've been reading on this fuel petcock assembly. Seems some say it's no big deal, other say we should replace it. Not sure what's going on. Is this like the KLR Doohickey issue? Or is it something that's convenient to do? Also what's the Vaccum Plugs for? Can you post picture of your petcock/what you did? Thanks
When you order RAM accessories like handlebar mounts and stuff like that, they include little rubber caps to put over the threads of the U-bolt. I find they are perfect for capping the vacuum ports on a carb. When you switch to a manual petcock, you have to cap off the vacuum port on the carb since you don't need it to operate the automatic petcock and you don't want outside air and dust getting sucked into the intake tract. I've switched all my bikes to manual petcocks except for the 200s which as I've said we prefer to keep the automatic petcocks.
Does anyone know what the widest tire is that will fit the DR200? I am looking a the Kenda K760 - I'm sure a 110/100-18 will fit but has anyone managed to use a 120/100-18?
I put a 120 in for ice racing, extended the chain to max, but the studs would hit the chain on tire flex, so quickly removed. I'm sure you could make the 120 fit. But the little 200 would have a difficult time spinning the tire I'd just stay with the 110
120/90 18 definitely fits as that's what's is on my 125 (but has 200 alu swingarm). IT does mean running the wheel about half way back in the slots but that might be due to tread depth on my tyre as much as diameter as it's a F.I.M pattern enduro tyre. As sad above though, it will gear it up a bit so you might need to drop a tooth or so off the front sprocket. It lifts the back end a bit but not in a bad way - mine still runs standard height forks. Sad day yesterday - sold my 200 engined 125 It still had that high rpm misfire/surging and I wasn't gettign chance to dig further into it so i got put on ebay. At least it means I've more time to work on the 125 - it's an 88 so a lot less wiring and stuff to deal with too.
Thanks for the input guys. Sounds like the 120 would just fit but like you said with the limited HP of the DR it may be better to stick with the 110.
Hey guys, thought I'd check in. I just bought an '04 DR200SE. It is super clean with only 1,150 miles. Travis..
The attached photo shows (at the end of the piece of pine straw) a rubber cap sealing the vacuum inlet of the carb on my 2007 DR200. When you convert from the OEM vacuum petcock to the Yamaha manual one, you swap out the petcocks (no mods required), toss the vacuum line and plug (as done in photo) the vacuum inlet on carb. Thanks to Magestyk for helping me with posting the photo.
Thanks for showing where the plugs goes, BadDawg. This is retarded question but I must ask anyways. Do I have to drain the Fuel tank, and unbolt/take it off to change the Petcock? Or is it possible to do the change without doing that? I'm gonna do this on my bike. I cleaned the Air Intake box twice in the last 2400 miles and I find a small amount of fuel on the bottom. From what I read that might be a sign of my Petcock is goin bad.
I guess you could go two ways on this: Approach #1 Remove tank. Remove the two side covers, then seat, then the two bolts on the tank. Drain most of the gas from the tank. (You can leave a little in the tank, probably the amount of "reserve" or less is okay.) With both hoses (gas and vacuum) detached, lift tank off. You can then lay it on its right side (so petcock side is higher) on a soft surface. Then the old petcock can be swapped with the new one. No spillage. [Note that most of the gas needs to be drained so that the gas level will be lower than the height of the gas cap when the tank is placed on its right side.] Approach #2 Do not remove tank. In this case, you need to drain ALL the gas from the tank. Swap petcocks. Of course as soon as the old petcock is removed, you will have an open hole in the bottom of the tank through which any remaining gas will pour. Do this outside. I took Approach #1.
Finally someone got a reply. I'm definitely gonna buy the Michelin T63 Dual Sport Rear Tire - 120/80-18 (Yours was 120/100-18) So I should be good to go with no problems. http://tinyurl.com/n6l7t3j Yeah, I'm gonna go with your #1 as well. Thanks again.
