I sure like the rear fender on this bike. I have my 98 DR350se stripped down to the frame to re-paint the PURPLE frame that was a stock color on this bike. I was toying with the idea of pulling the rear fender off my 06 DRZ400s to see if it could be fabbed up. Looks like a go.
Well, I've decided to move on, and sell my DR350. It's been such a great bike, that it's a hard decision to make. Just some reminiscing here, not a for-sale plug. These things really are just about bulletproof; IMO just the right mix of old school proven reliability, and newer tech stuff like disc brakes, etc for a great dual sport. Can anyone else here think of another bike, besides the DR350 (S or SE), that does something better than almost any other bike out there? I don't think these bikes are the best at any particular riding condition or event, but they may be one of the best all around bikes ever. Certainly none of the Japanese bikes match the 350's combination of 6 speed, smoothness, reliability, and moderate offroad ability. Maybe a KTM or Husky? The KTM I just bought (520 EXC) beats the 350 in most areas, except smoothness and reliability, especially for longer distances on pavement. I've heard great things about the TE610, but negatives about the electrical system and other stuff.
I'm looking for the little plastic gear for the speedo of a 97 se. I don't want to pay $72 for the whole assembly. I've checked the usual places and everywhere wants to sell the whole assembly. Nothing showed up on ebay so I figured I'd try my luck here if anyone has one laying around. Thanks!
The only other bike that I really considered as a balanced dual sport was the Husky TE610. So I think you are on the right track. When I brought $$ into the equation the balance REALLY went in favor of the DR. My fav year for the 610 is 06 because of the addition of FI in later bikes. That limited tanks and took a little away in terms of trailside fixes. All in all, I think the TE610 is a really nice bike if you are really looking to try something different. Good Luck.
The XR650R isn't far off. Its less civilized with kick start, n oem-dual sport option, a 5spd and some high-rpm vibration but its really dead reliable and does most everything pretty well. Weighs about the same as a 350SE, makes a boat load more power, much better chassis. Physically larger/taller (good for me, bad for others maybe). If it had a 6spd it'd be a shoe-in. As it is its not terrible as the gearbox is fairly widely spaced and it has the torque to pull the spacing. Still with tight-trail friendly gearing its a bit short for freeway comfort. I've never heard of any electrical issues on the 610 and suspect its about the most balanced overall dual sport bike made in recent years. The KTM 690 looks pretty good too, but maybe a bit heavy and complicated. Probably great out west.
I can tell you after riding both bikes back to back, I'd much rather have a massaged DR350 than a brand-new WRR. Stock, the WRR is a bit better. However it's also more $$, and if you put a couple of grand into hot-rodding a DR, it drastically outperforms a WRR. The WRR is incredibly anemic and has lots of cheap-feeling parts (levers, shifter, etc.). The suspension is better but needs work as well. A decent front-end and some motor work on the DR make it, IMHO, a highly versatile and fun bike. dc
The timing of your post is great. I've been looking for a smaller dual sport and have gone back and forth amongst the models and brands. I keep coming back to the DR350 and WR250R. I'd probably already have a wrr were it not for the price. The DR350's mix of price, 6 spd gearbox, and reliability is hard to beat. TE610 looks nice, but at twice the price, I'll take the DR. I've been hunting for clean plated models, and they're not easy to find. I'd take the one from yondering, but he'd have to willing to do uship or forward air. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Ok fellow 350'ers here's my dilemma. I have both bone stock exhaust for my bike, and a Supertrapp IDS2. The supertapp which is currently installed,....is loud. 8 discs right now was running 12 from the PO. I need a quieter option for local Dual sport events which sound test. I don't think the supertrapp would be under 90db. My question is for those of you who have a modified stock pipe, like the mod Kientech does. Do I end up in the same situation with an overly loud pipe? My bike is fairly stock airbox opened up and jetted, but no big bore, cams, or anything else. Insight appreciated.
The modded stock pipe is a nice tone, not overly loud at all. It would easily pass a 92db limit, off the top of my ears, I'd guess it's around 88db or so. dc
Even a bone stock pipe isn't too bad. I ran one most of the time on my 350 for the same reason (noise). The FMF Q I had was prettier, lighter and louder (rated at 93db IIRC). It wasn't horribly loud, but too loud for overcrowded new-england I think. The power was a bit improved with the Q, especially mid-top, but even with the stock muffler the bike was plenty ridable and I noticed no change in low-mid power.
Thanks for the feedback. I assume BikePilot you had the airbox opened up with the stiock pipe. correct? As much as I hate to add any weight to the bike the stock pipe will go back on and I'll make sure the jetting is ok. I also hate to choke the bike back up.
Yep, airbox open, TM33SS and 10.5:1 79mm (stock bore size) wiseco piston. IIRC I was jetted 40/140 and it felt maybe just a tiny bit fat up top. Needle was fairly lean, but I don't remember the clip position (I think it was actually the stock position for a '99 dirt model). I imagine the opened up stocker is a great option, I just haven't tried or heard one.
So for the upcoming harescramble season I need a number plate setup for the DR350, can someone tell me if I have a crazy idea? I need black backgrounds and white numbers, no one makes a pre print for the 350, so I can use blak sheets and cut them to fit. However, what if I were to spray the side panels with that bed-liner in a can stuff and pained over the numbers I wanted? Would that look weird? I might try it....
I think it would work and here's why... I painted the whole headlight surround of my V-Strom with the rattle-can bedliner and it turned out amazingly good. WAY better looking than the glossy black of the stock surround. The key was to use several very light coats to give it slightly more texture than orange-peel. If you slop it on it will be rough and ugly. I sanded the plastic down pretty good with some fine-grit paper first to rough it up a bit and take that glossy sheen off the top. Then I cleaned it real good with DupliColor cleaner/degreaser. I also did the heat shield over the exhaust with fantastic results. Based on how mine looks, I think it would turn out great if you did that. It would be really cheap to try it on the inside of your side panels and do a "test paint" to see how it turns out. Post pics if it works!
Hopefully someone can help a bike wiring newb out with a problem here... I am trying to get my 92 DR350 (plated version) ready for an enduro later this month and in my check-up I noticed that my tail/brake light is not working. Like I said, I am rather a newb at bike electrical issues so I was hoping someone could give me pointers on what to check for. Here is what I have done so far... Verified that neither brake activates the light to rule out the switches. Verified that the headlights do not activate the running light (is there one? I never noticed... but pretty sure there is... lol) Verified other electrical stuff works... headlight, turnsignals, speedo lights, etc. Changed the bulb. Checked for continuity at the wires where the leads plug into the tail lamp assembly and there is none there when the brakes are engaged. Checked the plug next to the battery where the leads come out of the main wiring harness and go back to the rear of the bike. I do get some continuity there when the brake is engaged but I don't know for sure if I am checking for the right thing here... but perhaps this is pointing to a cut wire somewhere behind the harness. Any ideas??? I want to get this running and go for a test ride before the end of the week (and the end of my vacation.) Other things I did to the bike to get ready... I had to replace the engine stop-switch. Old one went bad. New one is MUCH nicer as I can actually tell if the bike is in the ON or OFF position now instead of guessing. Replaced rear tire/tube with an MT43 and Tubliss core. If I can get the freakin brake lamp working, I'll give this setup a try. I did ride around the block a few times with it and boy that rear tire sure is quieter on pavement than a full knobby! Made some flexible turn-signal extenders to send them rearward so I would not kick them getting on/off the bike and break them off anymore. Should be better in a drop situation as well since they should just flex back out of the way instead of snap off.
