If this is the crank breather hose then you now have an open hole in your intake boot that can allow dirt past the air filter and another hole into your crank case. The connection for it is on the rubber part of the intake boot just behind the shock on the right hand side. Do you know what spring rate your rear shock has? I need a stiffer one for my bike.
Thanks for the help on that - I'll check that line out as well, but the one that's unplugged on mine runs from the right hand side of the carburator & up - the line people are using a T-vent on. It's still plugged into the carb but I don't know where it finishes. The only thing I know about the spring is that it's from Progressive & rated for a 200 .lb rider Oh, and it's black .
Congrats! :) I´m not surprised you got the clearance needed with your special washer since I only put in a shim with less than 1/10 the thickness of your washer and it worked great for me to! 1.5mm of play is imo on the generous side, but can´t really see the harm.. Go DR!
Checked the valves today, all of them had too big clearances so I put them within specs. Threadlocked the gear bolt now that I finally found the loctite. Bike seemed to only need oil and clutch adjustment. Sidestand had broken so I had the dr leaning on a wall. I changed its place to leaning on a pole to have more space while doing the clutch cable. Went to grab a 10mm socket and when I got back the damn doctor had wedged itself between 2 poles ( they were like this l/. Throttle side handlebar in between those) and the throttle tube bracket thingy (where the cables and tube go) cracked completely So now I need a new one of those Anyone have any tips for finding some replacement fast and not wait weeks for the stock. Or paying 50€ at the official dealer. Now after reading this http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/658741-dr350-valve-adjustment-what-did-i-do-wrong/ Im not sure if I was on the correct stroke... If I was on the wrong one, HOW BIG would the clearances be? Many mm bigger or just a tiny tiny amount? Like I said, all gaps were bigger than what manual says. Intakes (carb side? think so) should be under 0.080mm and they were over 0.12 Exhausts should be 0.01 - 0.015 and they were over 0.02 So from that amount of adjusting (not over 1/2 turns), was I on the compression stroke? "when you found TDC are you sure that it was on the compression stroke? that will make a BIG DIFFERENCE in the clearance." That was on the thread and it got me thinking... From about 0.12mm to under 0.08 isnt BIG imo.
Anyone know of a matching spray paint brand/color for the blue on a 1994 DR frame? My frame needs to be touched up before things get out of hand! Thanks!!
Yes, it´s really the same thing when you think about it, with the shim/ washer you are making the spacer between the current thrust washers longer resulting in some more play, same thing happens if you would take material out of the clutch basket.
Hi Teeeeeemu Maybe this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-Suzuki-D...ies&hash=item53ec260ff9&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1219 I know this won't be as fast as you want, but still an option.
You were on the correct stroke. If not, there would have been no clearance and you wouldn't have been able to measure the gap.
I wanted to do the same thing, so I called the expert (Jesse) and asked him. He said the 94 and newer DR350 had a different head and the auto-decompression cam won't fit in the older bikes. I have a 1991 that is a pain to start, and a 1998 that I can start with my hand....big difference.
I finally got the wife's DR out for a test ride last night. It's been in dry dock for an extended stem-stern overhaul. Welded in a new steering stop, installed key switch, new front brake line, HID lights, rebuilt linkages, fresh oil in all suspension, valve adjust, new rear tire, brake pads at both ends, unclogged the airbox drain, fresh air filter, clutch EZ pull.... Wow! What a difference. The 55W HID really lights up the world. The motor purrs right along. After bedding in, the new brakes actually work. I'm looking forward to few years of riding now with just oil changes and valve checks.
oil vavle checks? I was changing my oil out every 500. But then I see that the interval is more like 3k. I do it about every1000-1500. But it seems like forever or never. Every time I check the valves they are spot on. I am begining to think that they never need to be adjusted either. The only thing my bike ever NEEDS is gas and a air filter wash.
has anyone rerouted thier bottom iarbox drain? Mine gets clogged damn near every sloppy ride. it "dumps" out just inside the front sprocket area. might post i pic tonight when i get home And good job on the DR, have fun with it.
I think a better solution would be to entirely eliminate he hose. The little "frog vagina" check valve should be mounted directly to the air box, like XR's do.
