Here's a fairing for you. Robo-Boogie slapped this together yesterday so he could ride home from college today. Five gallon bucket and zip-ties. Note the support is made from the bucket handle. Maybe some competition for the rally moto kit...
Bungholio---------It might be that your 'torque limiter'' is slipping when you use the magic button? Somewhere on this forum Hodaka guy has written something about how he 'fixed' that problem. It worked for me---and I was having the same symtoms that you describe. Try a 'search' on Torque limiter and see what comes up-----or maybe Hodaka guy will call in with the link ?-----
Yep did that along with the oil pump gear replacement. It has been starting fine since then until I put in the new plug. Put the standard plug back in today, will see how it does.
Does anyone know what this part looks like. Part # 78008016000. I am looking for the black part that the euro tail light bolts to to replace the Sicass part that does not supply enough rigidity to the rear fender. I have not been able to find a pic of it on any of the KTM Parts sites. I will look at the Bike-Bandit site next. Just looking for some clarification before I pull the trigger on the purchase. I can find plenty of pics on the complete kit.
Page number links don't work very well since users can select different numbers of posts per page... Do you have a post number?
Here is the post. Actually, if you just enter KTM part numbers into Google, you'll find the parts you are looking for. (not being a smart-ass, just showing that it works).
The PW Garfiled is THE setup to use - have him install the turns - aaaaaand DONE. Absolutely the best, man what an improvement. The turns are BRIGHT, the fit is immaculate, the running/brake light is lo-profile....flawless.
But I had 2 already and now I'm using the XC-W brake light...YMMV (Paul had is a good guy and replaced them for free)
Received my new Renazco seat a few days ago. The Acerbis X-Seat that I was running was killing me. The Acerbis seat is OK for aggressive trailriding because it's really tough/durable, waterproof, and has decent traction. But if you actually want to sit on it, whew. It's rock-fucking-hard. Anyway, had the idea stuck in my head that I might like a supermoto-style step-seat. Mostly because it seems like I exert a lot of energy just trying not to get blown off the bike when riding at higher speeds on-road. So we put the step in the seat pretty far forward, but the transition area in the step is more gradual than a hard break, so it's not in the way when trying to shift my weight further back. The raised portion of the step-seat is also really nice on longer rides, when I want to move around a little bit, stretch my legs, etc. It's almost like having two seats in one (stock-height and a tall seat). Have to sit a little bit further back on the bike to get up on top of the step, but it's makes for pretty comfy cruising. Know that not many people are riding 2-up on these bikes, but I do, and the step-seat is great for that too. After putting about 400 miles on this seat over the last couple days, just wanted to let everyone know that I think this seat might make an even bigger difference in high-speed comfort than a fairing. It's amazing. The wind-blast doesn't even phase me anymore. The shape of this step-seat, in combination with the suede cover, keeps me glued to the bike without any of the pinching (legs) and pulling (arms). Really helps with the fatigue that would usually set in after a few hours in the saddle. Thanks James!
I'm swapping the fork springs (or planning to once I locate a pin wrench) and I'm wondering if a regular open end wrench will work in place of special tool T14032 (the open end wrench looking tool) to remove the pre-load adjusters? Does anyone know what size it is? Since I'm swapping springs and the bike's got about 25hours on it (and it's about a year old) I figured I would go ahead and change the oil. Is it necessary to fully disassemble the forks and remove the cartridge? Or can I just pour the oil out and replace once I remove the springs? Thanks for helping out a fancy fork noob HM
No need to fully disassemble the whole lot... if all you are doing is springs. Look up Slavens Racing... he has some videos that will help. You can also look up some videos on youtube... none specific to the KTM but it will help. The main thing is having that special tool to get the cap off... too bad you don't live in the Springs... Slavens has just about everything you could need and want for your bike. He does ship though! There is also a service shop manual online if you look hard... google it and it is in PDF format.
Anybody using a light or know of one that can be put on a 530 for a night ride and then transferred, plug n' play to a 950 Adventure?? Pics and links appreciated.
I decided to replace the bearings with a Moose upgraded set. All I could figure is that I was getting a heat build up from bad bearings. I will replace the bushing parts too. The parts come in tomorrow I think. As quick update on my 2009 530. I bought it new about 3 years ago. At 15 hours it was burning about 1cc of oil per mile. I tried a bunch of different things that the factory guy told me with no joy. I kept working with them and by 30 hours they had replaced the top end. I had the new engine and it worked perfect with no oil usage for about the first 50 hours. All of a sudden it was burning oil at 1cc per 2.2 miles. I was disappointed but decided to just live with it. I figured it would get worse and I would rebuild the top end. The funny thing is that now I am at 270 hours and it has no change for the worse. It still burns a bit of oil but my typical rides are around 500-700 miles and I replenish the oil with a small 300cc jug I carry. It really has not been an issue. DD