Concours C14 thread

Well now, there are a few variables involved with this that would affect the individual responses from rider to rider -- variables such as helmet type, helmet model, shoulder width, torso height, ear plugs yes/no, ear plug type,...you get the idea.

For example, I wear a Schuberth C3, use custom molded ear phones, have a shoulder width (jacket on) of 53cm / 21inches, and have a torso (sitting) height of 91.5cm / 36 inches as measured from top of seat pad to top of helmet.

I found the stock screen to be insufficient in both height and width.

At the lowest setting, the wind blast was exactly at shoulder/neck height and was very noisy at highway speeds -- to noisy to make use of the headphones.
At the highest setting, the wind blast was about nose height and created a lot of buffeting at highway speeds -- enough to push one's head from side to side, when trailing behind SUV's, pickups, vans.
In weather, I had too much rain spray which hit me at the edge of the chest and covered both shoulders.

The front-end profile of the C14 was designed obviously to mimic a sport bike and the dash height is quite low, in comparison to something like the Honda ST1300. This in turn reduces the height of the windscreen mounting points, which limits the height or size (coverage) of the aftermarket screens.

I use a Cee Baily Euro Cut model on my '08, and at highway + speeds get enough movement at the trailing (top) edge now, that I suspect anything taller & wider, would overtime be stressing the adjustment arms.

The Euro Cut model (for me) when fully extended directs the wind blast at eyebrow height, and when fully retracted now directs the wind to almost chin height -- not quite as fully covered as I would have preferred, but nice in summer, especially in city traffic.
The profile of the screen is different enough that I don't experience any head wobble or shoulder buffeting at any setting.

When I was installing the aftermarket screen, I took the bike out for a run down the highway without any screen installed, and it was bad. The profile, and height, of the dash acting alone was worse than a naked bike -- a lot of shoulder buffeting and quite noisy.

Perhaps I'm just getting soft & old -- every bike I've had since about the mid-eighties, has had some form of fairing/screen combination -- but I just couldn't imagine doing highway touring anymore, without some sort of screen to cut down on that wind blast.

Hope this helps with your decision!

So what's out now? 2010's? 2011's? Are they throttle by wire?

Just got my new 09 delivered tonight (snowed here in Michigan).
She's a big girl ! The deal was just to good to pass up.

2011's, and no.

Well, it got up to 45 degrees today and the roads were dry, so i took the big girl out.

she is surprisingly nimble above 25 mph and wind protection was very good. Way better than my Nighthawk.

its going to be rough keeping her under 4,000 rpms for the next 475 miles.

But so far i like her!

Yeah... mostly. As others said, helmet, etc. contributes to that.

Had a 2004 Multistrada, it was far louder from wind roar/buffet. My R1150 GS, WAAAAAAY more buffeting.

Me personally, I sweat like it's my job. I want an OEM screen to cut down about 4 inches for the hottest months. I have a taller screen on there now, and at well below the highest setting the air goes over my head. I'm 5'9" on a good day.

YMMV,
Barry

Well, I have to be honest, the Conny 14 is on my short list, I think it's about the sexiest sport tourer available today, but a BIG selling point is the two up comfort, especially for the wife.

So how is it for the pillon? I know this thing is a rocket with bags, but that doesn't do much for the lady when she has to sit back there for any longer than 30 min at a time.

When we were looking around, the wife actually like the seat on the ST1300 better.

Ended up with an FJR anyway.

I wasn't a big fan of the Connie until yesterday while driving to San Jose up US101 a 09 Connie stayed with me for about 5 miles. The man was in the zone. The motorcycle has very nice lines while in motion. He was a shorter dude like myself and was lovin the risers and has a top case with pad ready for company. He was jammin out on something (clearly dialed into some music). I have always favored the FJR1300 but would strongly consider the Connie or FJR. Huge mile eaters in comfort with room for two.

I think comfort for pillion is pretty good. My wife likes it. It isn't a goldwing, but if you're looking for a sport-tourer, then I don't think it's bad. Small backrest addition might be good. I find, as the driver, that my back gets much more tired when she's leaning against me. The backrest might result in less tendency to lean against me.

...my wife hated it at first!!! And I mean it. After a new seat (Sargent), C10 pegs with extenders, re-arranging the trunk position and a touring (tall) windshild, the C14 became the new reference.
Previously I had a CapoNord and out of the box everything felt in place except the need for a taller Givi windshield (very cheap).

You really need to get your wife to sit on all of the contenders and see which one she likes best. If she is 5'-5" or less it probably won't matter too much but it she is 5'-7" or taller the Honda ST will probably fit her better. The Honda is designed towards the "touring" side of the sport tourers and seems to have better passenger accommodations.

My wife did not care for the ST1300 and hated the FJR. According with her "expert" opnion, the ST13 ergo did not click, till today I cannot understand why. BTW, she liked the R12RT... I did not... I liked the K12GT...she does not like 2 exhaust pipes... go figure...

Had an '09 C-14 for last season, before that a BMW K1100RS.

Wife liked the K bike's pillion and DID not like the Concours when she took the first few rides.

She is only 5' 2" but felt like the passenger pegs had her knees bent too much. And didn't care for the stock seat.

Got some brackets to drop her pegs- 2" down and 1" forward (from MC Larry- got them with the Yamaha rubber pegs) and a Sargent seat. Then a top box with back rest pad. She said that those changes made it MUCH better. Finally a Cee Baileys "Eurocut" windshield cut the wind blast WAY down.
Took some work and $$$ but it transformed the bike and kept SWMBO very happy.

Ultimately after a full season I never really "bonded" with the Connie so it went away and now have a K100RS in the garage. Yeah, it is an affliction. :huh

John

the c14 /1400gtr is becoming the reference...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=679455

my wife hated the c14s seat and leg position. the seat slopes forward quite a bit and the pegs are high, cramping the leg room.

i put a custom seat and passenger peg lowerers on it and now its perfect. as has been said, youre just gonna have to put her on it and see how she feels.

Motorcyclist or Cycle World did an FJR-ST1300-Concours comparison last summer. Of the three they preferred the Concours. But in a sidebar they said the brought along a BMW 1200GS to haul camera gear and such. All the test riders said they would bike the GS over all the others. They also had one passenger who would swap as pillion among the bikes - and she also overwhelmingly preferred the GS.

I've briefly ridden a 1200 GS; it didn't do "it" for me - but I could see it making a comfortable long-haul tourer.

Can anyone point me to an article/thread on removing the flies? I haven't opened my beast and need to get more familiar, figure it's prop the tank, open the airbox, unscrew those pesky little screws and grab the flies with a needle nose?

http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-14-forum/7500-flies-out-picture-guide.html

The images are representative of the ZX1400 engine, but once the tank is off, it's all the same.

You will need to ensure that the battery is disconected first.

The next step is removing the saddle and then the 'glove box' -- you might want to remove the two upper fairing side panels too, since this will be where you'll want to locate the Power Commander module.

Since you have not made any reference to which PC module you are using, I'll take this opportunity to remind you that you MUST REMAP THESE ENGINES when removing the secondary throttle plates -- these engines will run too lean with the secondary tp's removed.
I purchased a pre-mapped PCIII from Fuel Moto, and it has performed flawlessly. They have a selection of maps already configured, dependant on which model of exhaust can you wish to run.

At some point, you'll also have to remove the left hand side fairing piece (Power Commander wire harness installation), and to be honest, you're better off removing the complete fairing from the bike. This can be done in one section -- with the bike on the centre stand, you'll be able to rotate the complete fairing (belly/chin/side panels) as one unit from underneath and away from the bike. This of course means disconnecting the turn signals and the inner fairing rad shroud pieces.

I'm sure that I am not using the correct terms for the body sections as I am typing this from memory -- I did the throttle plates & PCIII installation on mine about two years ago(?).

The gas tank is next; be carefull when lifting the tank off of the mounts, as there will be a fuel disconnect located on the bottom of the tank -- you'll have about a foot of line to play with. Refer to the owners manual -- there is an adequate discription in the manual regarding how to disconect this fuel line.

There has been a lot written about how difficult it is to remove the throttle plate attachment screws -- some people have stripped screw heads or twisted the screws off, and leaving a portion of the fastener still in the throttle body.
Personally, I never experienced any issues removing the fasteners or the four throttle plates. Use a decent quality phillips head screwdriver, with a shaft at least eight inches in length. It helps if the screwdriver is, or can be, magnetized. I used one of those removable magnets that fits around the shaft -- you magnetize the shaft of the screwdriver and the fasteners will stick to the screwdriver head when withdrawing them through the throttle body/air box.

Just don't move the throttle when removing the fasteners or plates, and you shouldn't have any worries about dropping 'things' into the engine -- the primary plates will remain in the closed position.
Do keep a magnetic pick-up handy though just in case you need to retrieve a dropped fastener. The secondary plates cannot fall down into the throttle body passages -- they are larger than the full length of the lower TB passage.

Remember to keep the removed plates & fasteners, just in case you decide to return everything to stock. I couldn't see any dimensional difference between the four plates, but marking each of them when removing would eliminate any confusion as to which plate matches with each throttle body.

Oh and one more thing, with the fairing panels off it would also be an opportune time to inspect/install a new air filter, and snug up the bolts on the exhaust manifold.

You also might want to pick up some replacement rubber grommet fasteners -- they are used to hold the two upper fairing dash panels in place -- as they seem to be over-tightened at the factory and will not re-thread into place properly. The fasteners are stainless, and the threaded nut molded into each of the grommets is brass -- always a bad combo.

You don't have to buy the replacement grommets from the dealer -- these are a common body panel fastner and most decent automotive supply stores will be able to order them in for you. I bought mine from my local NAPA dealer.

PM me if you have any other questions.

Thanks I was planning on getting the PC from fuel moto, seems like the way to go. Right now I wish the bike were a naked standard. The plastic seems like the biggest issue. I did a similar job on an ST13, everyone obsessed about the screws but a good tool did the job without any stripping. I just really need the new air filter but while I am doing that I figured........

Anyway I need to get a factory manual and I'll be set. Thanks for all the tips