I'm interested in more detail as well. I've been planning to insulate my doors with the same material. It looks like you attached the hinges on top of the insulation.
Here's my developing motorcycle shop/garage. The long view: Closer up showing the chicken wire lattice that holds the stucco (stucco is on now but awaits the color coat). I had my builder add the fake vigas (logs sticking out of the exterior wall) to match my old adobe house. The garage door is 16' X 8' and the mandoor is 4' X 7'. I find I like the proportions. The garage door is insulated to R-17, so it is more insulated than my walls. I have found from some experts that stucco is not a very good exterior for a shop because the vibrations from an air compressor and vigorous pounding on the work benches can crack and loosen the stucco. I might place rubber bumpers between my work benches and the walls. Here is a view of the transverse hoist beam and one of the skylights. I placed electrical outlets on three separate circuits every 24 inches on the wall over my workbenches. (One bench will be for dirty work such as engine rebuilds and the like; the bench on the opposite wall will be for cleaner work and detail work.) Here is what the shop is trying to mimic--an old solid mud (adobe) home built in the old mexican style. We are working on many parts of the property so that is why it looks such a mess. Thank you all for ideas. I am incorporating quite a few elements of other man castles from this thread into my 26' X 30' shop.
Yep, Mike, now I won't be bumping my head unless I really try. I still have scars from hitting my head on the garage door braces in that crowded garage in Mass. Just no fun being 6' 6" tall in a world made for short people. The new ceilings are at 9' 8". Thanks for noticing. Come down and visit.
What I did that I really would recommend: Increased size from 20' deep to 24' deep. Whoever recommended that to me, thank you SO MUCH. 26' would have been even better. Outdoor area under overhang with 4' door and outdoor electrical and water (and air hookup, coming soon). Have dusty/dirty work to do? Roll it outside on a table and do it out there (area in bottom right in pic below). Garage doors (insulated!) have large-radius bend to get them closer to ceiling. With a 9' ceiling, you want to maximize your headroom. Separated workshop area from 'garage' area by a 7'x7' doorway. If I ever set up a wood shop in that area, I can keep the garage area clean by setting up a clear plastic curtain. Spray foam for insulation 50A 220V outlets Steel door frame reinforcements Spec-grade outlets everywhere 4" 4000psi slab with rebar (not WWF) I-joist construction (no "support pole" in the middle of the garage) Apron extends past the deep overhang 4" PVC carries downspout water far away from the structure Lots of light (T8s are efficient and throw a lot of lumens) Outlets everywhere, including in the ceiling TV cabling in the walls Hot water (need it for the shower/bath upstairs) HVAC Epoxy floor with anti-skid in the urethane topcoat (awesome) No floor drains (I just don't see the need, it's not a place for "daily driver" storage) Tint on all glass (windows and doors) A nice upstairs so that visitors have their own space What I wish I had done: Biggie: made the "garage" area just a little bit wider. I have steel cabinets and shelving on either side of the doors; it would be great if they were "tucked in" a little bit more so that they could easily be opened if a car pulls into the garage. Insulated the slab. Even here in VA, that slab gets cold -- not enough to sweat in the spring, but cold nonetheless. Motion sensor on ALL exterior lights. (easily fixed) Plumbed for air inside the walls; poured a small slab out back for a compressor. Plumbed for mixing hot/cold water outside ... that cold water is COLD! Better thought-out locations for switches etc. so as not to interfere with shelving etc. Think carefully about this stuff. Lean-to out back for a tractor. I think that's everything ...
I've put that past her as a suggestion after the tizzy. She got really quite. So, I just took advantage of the silence and went outside. i'm sure once I start on siding, she won't care as long as it's done. She just like to have a say ever so often.
I'll be up in Masland, Ohio first week of the year. i'll be up there for a week. I'm interested to see this snow everyone talks about. I've only seen up to 6 inches here.
Currently the house for sale with its tiny 2 car garage with way too much crap in it. I've got the wife talked into a metal building possibly 5k sq.ft. with a house on one half and shop/play area on the other. So 2500 for house and 2500 shop including a basketball goal inside. Anyone already done something like this and got some feedback or having pics of something like this. Like Randy Hawkins place kinda LINK. Sounds like the ideal set-up and I have read a couple of posts in this thread of others thinking about doing it, but never seen any completed.
I bought 4x8 sheets of this stuff at the building center And measured & cut, just a straight edge and utility knife. The door panels have a bit of a lip on all 4 sides to slide up into. Since this is pretty rigid stuff, you have to compromise on how much you can get into the lip overhangs. I cut them so you could slide them up as far into the upper lip as possible, then just clear the lower lip pushing the piece in, then letting it drop down which still covered at the top. I used construction adhesive I think, maybe it was silicone, to help hold them in. Expanding foam window sealer stuff works well on the outside edges if you have bigger gaps there, but can look crappy if you don't get it in just right. A sheet of this stuff at about 1.25" thickness is pretty light, but once you get the whole door done you've added some pretty good weight. I turned up the springs on my door tensioner some to compensate. Just this made a tremendous difference in the garage for temperature and sound deadening.
Yes, thanks ShadyRascal. Our doors are already foam filled to a R9? rating. Would be nice if closer the R19 throughout the shop. The noise attenuation you mentioned is a big issue. My metal shop doors face the houses of two bitchy neighbor ladies. Appreciate the write up.
You might check out some of the aircraft hanger homes. We almost got one and had considered putting the home on a mezanine above the shop area. .
Warm (in the shop). We are at 5280 ft. elevation so it does get brisk here, but there's very little snow and it's sunny nearly all the time. When there's problems on the roads to the north we travel south and ride southern NM and Tucson and into Old Mexico. Genuine year round riding.
It will be insulated to hold in the heat from the radiant heat in the floor. Probably will use that blown in newspaper stuff. If anyone has any other suggestions on the insulation I'm 24 x 36, 9' ceiling downstairs with a bar/opium den upstairs. This showed up today
It seems that the big emphasis these days is in making the structure as airtight as possible (witness the rise in the importance of a blower-door test). To that end I don't know a better product for insulating than sprayed-in foam.
I also use radiant floor heating in a northern climate. It is easy to regulate, and obviously very clean. Just make sure that you properly fill the system with anti-freeze (non the automotive type) in case the heater fails and you don't freeze the line(s) embedded in the concrete floor, pressurize the system correctly with a self-venting manifold system to bleed off any air bubbles and pre-heat BEFORE it gets cold outside. You will be very happy with its performance if properly sized and installed. Good luck. Dave
I considered that. I liked the fact that it also adds some structural rigidity. But it was to pricey for my budget.