Ok so I will have access to a set of 2006 CRF 450X forks, Applied Triple set, Excel wheel, brakes, bars, the whole nine yards for nearly free. Now just because I have it doesn't mean I should do it. How many of you fellow XR fans would go for it given you had the parts available and price was not the limiting factor. I know I still have to machine down the top triple and add a sleeve to make the stock XR stem work, but I have access to a mill and the shims are meh inexpensive. The question to you is...would you do it. I don't subscribe to the theory on why Honda didn't do it on there race bikes (frame damage or inferior). That ones simple IMHO; it would depart too far from the stock bike (race on Sunday sell on Monday) they had to look the same, and would make the bike waaay to expensive to have it be included on the stocker. Plus it was a desert bike the suspension worked good for that. I will be trial riding and hitting the highway occasionally. Think Sheet Iron 300 taking the hard splits type stuff. Not sure if that's better or worse for USD you tell me. I know this has been debated endlessly, but cost to do it is always a factor, so with that removed would you do it or not and why?? Thanks!!
I'll answer your question with a question....What problem are you trying to resolve? What do you not like about the stock forks? Have yours been re-valved and re-sprung to match your weight and riding style? Don't forget, the 450X forks will need to be tuned as well.
I have run both stock forks and USD. I love my USD for and can't imagine the XRR without them. That being said my USD have been worked on and are perfectly valved and sprung.
I did it and after two years went back to stock. I felt no performance advantage (both stock and USD resprung and revalved) and had to replace fork seals twice on the USD vs zero fork seal replacements in 6 years with stock forks. Honda made this bike for max performance with max reliability. If you venture from stock, you will affect one of those.
I did it after a crash with CRF showa valved and sprung and don't think of going back. 2year no fork seal problems so far... But I regularly do some cleaning Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
mine was defective. I have ran a hotcams stage 1 camshaft in an XR650L I owned before and it was fine, but I have always heard negative things when dealing with hotcams. Mine was a stage 2 camshaft that I installed in my XR650R. followed the instruction sheet on proper installation and dos and donts etc. the lobes on the new camshaft made nasty gorge marks into all 3 rocker arms (all 4 lifters(? terminology) ) and was causing excessive clearance on the valve tappits because it was eating away my rocker arms. I took it back to the dealership i ordered it from and I asked the parts guy to get in touch with hotcams and tell them to send me a replacement or refund my money. (the parts guy is a close friend of mine so when he told me he contacted hotcams and said they would not replace or refund me i believed him). I had to spend about 150$ on 3 brand new rocker arms and reinstall the stock camshaft. If hotcams will not stand behind their product they dont deserve my business. (or anyones business for that matter). I have the old rocker arms and hotcams camshaft Ill take pics tomorrow and post them here.
HOLY SHIT!! I wouldn't replace mine with USD, unless they were bent, or broken....that's my $.02 worth! BRAP!! Early Memorial Day Weekend trip for me and the Mrs.!!
Here I as looking for a set of snowflake firebird rims for my '69, and you are sporting them on you trailer!! Jeepers!! Have a safe and fun trip!
5 on 4.5 Jeep Grand Cherokee Honeycombs....with the center hole bored out a bit to fit over the hub on my trailer...I've been using them for years!! LOL!! They came off my ZJ years back...
Oh. Yep. Just a tad different than the snowflakes. My phone screen is too small. Had to pull it up on the computer.
Sub Zero I use Hotcum stage 1 it works fine. If it erased your rocker arms the first suspect would be oil not pumped up to the rockers area. If you will need to adjust the valves after about 200 miles then there is a problem with oil starvation and your new rockers are suffering the same damage. Normally I have to adjust valves every 5000miles It usually happens because of the wrong camshaft bearing, the one from the timing chain side should be with a seal from one side, the other should be without any seal. Rarely it could also happen because of the valve between oil pump and oil filter is stuck open, check it just in case http://s019.radikal.ru/i602/1311/52/3640a33c3d28.jpg BRP is made to withstand much abuse, so even stage 2 shouldn't put that much stress on rockers, better check it until it costs more 44Red If you didn't revalve stock forks then the crf forks will give much better handling offroad And anyway what do you lose when you do the conversion? You can always buy stock triple clamps if you won't like it, also I doubt it, on rocky sections while trial riding on BRP it will handle much better :)
My last drive chain lasted 2500 miles on my Xr650R. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? The chain is a midrange 520 Oring with masterlink. Sprockets were new. I do mostly dualsporting, so I'm thinking I should get longer chain life. The shop manual says to have 7/8"-1 1/8" free play with the rear wheel suspended off the ground. This seems abit tight to me. Usually I run abit more slack-any comments? I do minimal lubing. Is it worth buying the special spray lube for Oring chains? Mike
get a d.i.d erv3 gold x-ring chain with a rivet link from ebay and cut it down ten links http://www.ebay.com/itm/150622564890 , my last one lasted over 10k, and it looks awesome. I usually use the three finger behind the chain guide trick for free play
Yes. Ever get a flat front tire? At speed, a flat can roll the bead off of the rim without a safety bead or rim lock. Advisable? Yes. Necessary? No.