Here in Brazil, this problem is very common. BMW replaces it under warranty. There are some guys that had it replaced two or three times. The water pump has poor quality o'rings. BMW replaces the pump instead of o'rings. :eek1
THANK YOU!!! After a lot of cursing and finger abuse yesterday... I followed the pictorial and "click" in the first time today!!! :eek1
I wish I was under warranty... I'll be damned if I pay a ton of money for something that isn't totally broke... I don't know if my pump seals are bad enough to do much about it yet except top off my reservoir.
Check your water pump that is a weep hole when the water pump starts to fail, pretty sure, mine did the same thing but only a little while the water pump failed pretty soon after i saw this...
If someone has a better place to put this, lemme know. So my water pump started leaking out of the weep hole. With all the research I could find, most people either had it fixed under warranty or chose not to do anything till it got worse. I couldn't find any info on how to fix this so I decided to try myself. I always start with a before photo for reference. I started by taking off the hoses, I then removed the 5 bolts. Keep in mind, the top bolt between the ABS lines is the bleeder. Here is the cover removed. I had to take out the top line to be able to manouvre the pump cover out of the way. I don't have many special BMW tools... so I had to improvise using these plyers, With very little force, the impeller was removed. Now the hard part. I don't have a puller so I had to find a nut to thread on to the WP. I didn't have any to fit but come to find out, the nuts holding on the bash plate will screw on perfectly. Not sure of the size. I didn't want the WP to come out too fast so I screwed in the one bolt half way to stop it. I then used vice grips with a fan belt and a large hammer to yank the pump out. I know it's ghetto but whatyagonndo? There was bit of "goop" holding in my WP, YMMV. My WP had a line of black rubber so a bit scotch pad removed the remnants. New parts at 2 bux a pair. (I bought 4) Quite a bit of difference between the 2. Hard and stiff/soft and squishy I also replaced the WP gasket as the original was squished and I didn't think the used one would hold very well. I used a bit of gasket goop to seal the WP back into position and a little bit of oil on the new rubber seals. One hard part was lining up the teeth when you go to insert the pump. It took a few tries. I put everything back together in reverse order and bled the system from directions I found here, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13698738&postcount=11 Thanks to Joel and a few others for making this easier.
Well thank you very much for the imput! With pics and informations like these, you even could have started a new thread. Very much appreciated these DIY works
Cool pictorial! Are the pictures above evidence of yet another change BMW made to some parts without telling us? There seems to be an increasing amount of design changes for these issues that "don't exist". I'm not complaining... just wish they would inform us and offer to upgrade the bikes. Edit: not sure why it is not showing up but I intended to also show the old and new o-rings as well.
Side note: the water pump had been redesigned (again) and now uses a caged needle bearing instead of a bushing. The new design requires the use of plastic gears, so if you have an older build bike with metal water pump gears you will have to pull the camshaft out to replace the metal drive gear with the plastic one....
When my pump was seeping a bit of oil and coolant back and forth - Joel W. told me that the coolant is sealed inside that unit by two discs back to back. No service can be done. Don't those o rings replaced in this DIY just seal the unit in the bike? He said the back to back discs sealed the coolant, and may seep from time to time under the right circumstances, but last a long time. The oil is a o ring seal, but again - inside the unit. Hmmmmm.
Surprised no one thinks it's a seeping head gasket since it started to form well over the pump. I would just ride the bike till it becomes excessive or the warranty was about to run. Dave
Wouldn't you know it. My warranty runs out and this happens.Scheduled appointment for Friday to replace the pump.
Wow! Stumbled on this thread today. Just got my 2012 F650GS Twin less than a week ago. Rode it home....84 miles and as I was inspecting it, I saw a little white stream on side of the engine. Looked at it and could see it came out of a little hole. I wiped it off, thinking that it must be some kind of overflow, but didn't know why it was white. Very hot here. Upper 90's all week. I have less than 200 miles on bike today and saw a tiny bit that had leaked out when I got home. I'm making a note of this and when I go in for my 600 mile check, I'll report it. I was just hoping it would be nothing. But.....already a water pump replacement??!! Hard to believe!!
Relax Mr Longhandle. Having PDI'd over 100 GS Twins fresh from the crate, I don't remember any that DIDN'T leak on the first ride. Let the dynamic seals break in. If it still leaks by the 600 then tell the Dealer to have a pump brought in before you get there. Most don't stock them since it's not a common problem.
Is yurs a brand new f650gs twin? If yes I'm so surprise why they (bmw) didnt replace it when it out fr the factory. But after the change of WP it will be ok.
Kelsow, Where did you source the orings from? Is that standard BMW parts, and could you maybe post the part numbers, please? Sat the 28296 orings, but not sure if that is the part numbers. Thanks.
Kelsow's going to be doing that again soon. I heard there's a WP in the mail. Rigalo, get all your PN's here: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx And a couple of notes: The BMW special tool to remove the impellor IS a set of needle nose pliers according to the BMW CD. If you end up removing the steel gear from the cam you need to heat the hell out of it to loosen the Loctite or you'll break the bolt, as I did.
Mine weeps from the, umm, weep hole when it is very hot - stop/start commuting above 35C. I'd not panic. Yet.