Show us your TransAlp modifications!

mas335 · May 30, 2012

If fuel sat in the Carbs since November then I would surely think the slow jets and other parts have gummed up from the gas.

ric678 · May 30, 2012

Thanks for all the input, going to try and tackle the carb cleaning first and see where I get

MookieBlaylock · May 30, 2012

ric678 said: ↑

Thanks for all the input, going to try and tackle the carb cleaning first and see where I get
Click to expand...

my 89 spent some of its life parked outside so unfortunately there is some corrosion in critical places, like on the band clamps for the carbs and the float bowl screws, to the point where i didn't feel like potentially stripping bolts. So when i had to rehab the carbs i had to use a solution fed into the fuel line, although not optimal this did the trick. Bike still runs perfect which i don't really understand.

ferretface · May 30, 2012

Chaps, need a bit of suspension advice pls.... I've got a strange issue with the front end at approx 40mph where the forks bounce up and down but disappears when the speed gets above 50. I thought it was originally tyre related but have ruled that out and I was wondering if anyone else has ever seen this before?
I think I have 7w or 10w oil and am running stock suspension on the rear but the bike is fully loaded if that makes any difference.....

Jim Rowley · May 30, 2012

Ladder106 said: ↑

Did you buy it from one of the inmates on this list?
Click to expand...

I still have mine for sale, complete with genuine Honda auxilliary filters. A new filter is included.

Ladder106 · May 30, 2012

am running stock suspension on the rear but the bike is fully loaded if that makes any difference.....
Click to expand...

What do you mean fully loaded?

In any case, check your rear sag with you on the bike and the bike loaded as ridden. You should have no more than 2.5 inches....if it's more, crank up the preload until it goes away.

If is doesn't go away, reduce the load or replace the rear spring.

Generally TAs with too much rear sag exhibit very odd handling, wobbling etc.

ric678 · May 31, 2012

Jim Rowley said: ↑

I still have mine for sale, complete with genuine Honda auxilliary filters. A new filter is included.
Click to expand...

That would fix my problem, If only my wife would understand having 2 of basically the same bike...

ferretface · May 31, 2012

Ladder106 said: ↑

What do you mean fully loaded?

In any case, check your rear sag with you on the bike and the bike loaded as ridden. You should have no more than 2.5 inches....if it's more, crank up the preload until it goes away.

If is doesn't go away, reduce the load or replace the rear spring.

Generally TAs with too much rear sag exhibit very odd handling, wobbling etc.
Click to expand...

With hard luggage and probably adding an extra 40kgs overall. Its pretty damn heavy!

I've got the preload on Max already but the sag is probably too much due to the weight. I'm due to get a new rear spring so hopefully that will sort it.

Cheers for your input Ladder.

Dan.

DaleE · May 31, 2012

ferretface said: ↑

Chaps, need a bit of suspension advice pls.... I've got a strange issue with the front end at approx 40mph where the forks bounce up and down but disappears when the speed gets above 50. I thought it was originally tyre related but have ruled that out and I was wondering if anyone else has ever seen this before?
I think I have 7w or 10w oil and am running stock suspension on the rear but the bike is fully loaded if that makes any difference.....
Click to expand...

I have always had a bit of front end bounce in the 35-45 mph range. Isn't apparent at lower speeds and goes away as the speed increases. Not a problem, just noticeable. Changes in wheel balancing and application of Dyna-Beads has no effect.

A mechanical engineering friend of mine thought it had to do with the designs of the dual sport tires. At a certain speed there is a bit of resonance because of the blocks/gaps in the tire tread. I do notice that the exact speed at which it occurs depends on the particular tire I am using and to some degree the surface of the road and tire pressure I am running, so I think his observation has merit. A friends TA has the same issue. It's never caused an problem, so I ignore it.

If the problem is severe for you it may be another issue. I had a significant wobble (as opposed to bounce - highly technical terms) at higher speeds (over 65 mph) when I put a new rear shock on. Adjusting the rear pre-load as others have suggested got rid of that issue.

ferretface · May 31, 2012

wdeTA said: ↑

I have always had a bit of front end bounce in the 35-45 mph range. Isn't apparent at lower speeds and goes away as the speed increases. Not a problem, just noticeable. Changes in wheel balancing and application of Dyna-Beads has no effect.

A mechanical engineering friend of mine thought it had to do with the designs of the dual sport tires. At a certain speed there is a bit of resonance because of the blocks/gaps in the tire tread. I do notice that the exact speed at which it occurs depends on the particular tire I am using and to some degree the surface of the road and tire pressure I am running, so I think his observation has merit. A friends TA has the same issue. It's never caused an problem, so I ignore it.

If the problem is severe for you it may be another issue. I had a significant wobble (as opposed to bounce - highly technical terms) at higher speeds (over 65 mph) when I put a new rear shock on. Adjusting the rear pre-load as others have suggested got rid of that issue.
Click to expand...

I was running Conti tkc80's on it before and put it down to being a nobbly but I've since moved to Anakee II's and thought the problem might disappear with it being a more road biased tyre. It's pretty noticeable on my bike so think whatever is causing it could be increasing the affects with the additional weight.

Thinking about it, I don't think the progressive springs are not working as I expected - hitting any potholes and you really feel it hard compared to the standard fork springs.....almost as though it bottoms out.....Can anyone confirm if this is normal?

mas335 · May 31, 2012

That's not normal. they are stiffer than the OEM springs but nothing like what you described. Did you put the right amount of fork oil in? Fork oil weight? They should not come close to bottoming on the road.

explain · Jun 1, 2012

Hi,
i'm about to upgrade CDIs for my Transalp. The unit of choice is DC-CDI-P2 from Ignitech.cz
Question is how is that unit protected from water. I don't want a unit to die because of "not indoor usage". What are the opinions of owners of that unit?

Here is the photo of a unit i'm thinking about. Serial port (for unit programming) sticking out of the box doesn't look watertight at all. That's my concern

Thanks

Dekatria · Jun 1, 2012

Does anyone here know how often to check the spokes on a '99, and what the torque setting should be if any need tightening? I have got no problems at the moment, but I'm just curious about it. Cheers

locorider · Jun 1, 2012

Ladder106 said: ↑

They're just tiny hunks of foam. Buy a lawnmower filter from a hardware store for a few bucks, cut to shape, oil and yer good.
Click to expand...

....or buy them here, under air filter... http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

On the other hand, I did mine with lawnmower filter too...

R_Rick · Jun 2, 2012

explain said: ↑

Hi,
i'm about to upgrade CDIs for my Transalp. The unit of choice is DC-CDI-P2 from Ignitech.cz
Question is how is that unit protected from water. I don't want a unit to die because of "not indoor usage". What are the opinions of owners of that unit?

Here is the photo of a unit i'm thinking about. Serial port (for unit programming) sticking out of the box doesn't look watertight at all. That's my concern

Thanks
Click to expand...

My 87 was outfitted with an ignitech when I bought it. I've been sorting out some other issues so haven't had much seat time and cannot comment on it yet. However, one thing to consider if you get it - take the stock cdi holder, cut the middle section out (piece of rubber that would normally separate the two units) and the cdi can be placed horizontal to keep the connectors away from the seat. If you're concerned about the serial port cap letting water in, give it a few wraps with electrical tape or zip tie a small piece of sandwich bag over the port.

cheers

Rick

Daveski · Jun 2, 2012

Right All,

I have been lurking on these pages for way too long and to say they've been an inspiration is an understatement! This is my first post so if I screw up, sorry! The mods from folk in the US and elsewhere made me buy a 97 transalp 600 (in good nick) last Feb. I was looking for a more versitile bike than my KTM 640 LC4E, which was awesome, but I wanted more robustness, smoother engine characteristics, bigger service intervals for big trips and simpler servicing and happy to sacrifice a little dirt ability as I am not on the hard end of it - this all came out of taking my ktm to Sweden and riding as much dirt as possible. The KTM rocked, but I felt I could have more by getting a TA and taking a spanner to it. So, I had the odd road trip on the TA in its original state and then set about making it 'better' over the winter - well for what I want... As such, just wanted to share where I'm at with her with you to say thanks! Inspired by the likes of modrover and atgreg, with other folk and there africa alps - i forget all the names, but you've all played a part in me wanting to make something both cool and useful - though there's still a wee way to go, I'm just gonna ride her for the summer, and see where I go next winter... Right, photos...

 With luck you like, coz I do! Summary of mods:

KTM 640 Adv Yokes, Forks, Front Wheel, and Brembo Brake with 320mm rotor/disc - much easier than I'd imagined as I realised that the TA takes the same head bearings as the AT - for which you can get an aftermarket replacement steering stem to fit KTM ADV yokes ( http://www.ruggedroads.co.uk/shop/a...k-Conversion.html?shop_param=cid=30&aid=7016& ). There seemed to be a 5mm difference in headtube length which I sorted with a spacer under the top cap. Put new needle bearings in at the sametime.
Sunline Bars - have some black ktm handguards to add.
Simpson Detour Side Supersport fairing - great guys to talk too and deal with - I was after the twin headlight type and looked at A LOT of options from using a 640 adv fairing, a boano (maybe in the future?), numerous universal type rally fairings from german manufacturers - but settled on this which I love. The idea when I removed the original fairing and cradle frame was too loose weight and still have good lights with a rally/enduro edge and this ticks the boxes for me. Above 75mph is a bit blustery and I am considering ordering a laminar lip made for a 640 adv which should fit perfectly and take the edge off on longer trips.
Cut the clocks down to fit but will ultimately be putting on some trailtech number when I can be arsed - just enjoying riding again right now.
Radiator shrouds are I think UFO aftermarket for a 1990-1992 honda cr125/250 (thanks to a french chap on this thread who's name I couldn't find) - had to do a little cutting to make them more flush with tank then heated them up with heatgun in the area close to tank and shaped them by holding in place on tank and letting cool. Not bad, but may go for similar ally ones that modrover made eventually - though I like that I can drop it with less fear!
SW Motech Engine guard
Aftrica Twin RD04 rear shock, rear swing arm, linkage and axle. Aluminium so reducing the unsprung weight and also balances up the geometry of the front forks adding more travel and increasing the rear ride height. Used original rear disk brake, but replaced the rear wheel (as had bimetallic rust around spokes and rim) with a mint one from a 650 TA - the rear wheels are identical.
Front indicators are in the mirrors for a clean look - though I'll take these off for more challenging dirty stuff, rear are from a ktm exc.
Got rid of old rear light for an LED unit that someone else on here had used - thank you for the idea! DRC Edge 2.
Aly Chain guard
Avon Distanzia Tyres - okay on gravel and great on the road - set of tkc80s for more dirt.
Supermoto mudguard.
Remus can came with bike - perfect.

I am planning to fit a decent pannier rack and set of ARDCases Panniers - I had a pair on my KTM and they are impeccably well made - the the bloke that makes them, rodger, is a gent. May also think about some crash bars, we'll see.

The bike handles great, confident on gravel and superb on the road... I've only done a couple of hundred miles so far, so there's bound to be some tweeking. I serviced the forks and was wondering about stiffer springs... not yet sure - stock ktm 640 adv about 155kgs, plus takes 30l of fuel so another 30kgs, I've lost at least 10kgs from the trannie, plus it takes only 18l of fuel, plus I only weigh 76kg - we'll see how it works out, just want to keep the front and back balanced which currently they seem to be. Oh, and its about 2 inches taller front and back - which suits me fine. Still gotta get the side stand modified, but will probably keep using a 2 x 4 for the centre stand for the time being.

Think that's about it. Just passed its MOT (so is now road legal) - so time to have some adventures...

Massive thanks to all those that have contributed to this thread - truly inspirational - and it was great to steal a lot of your ideas!

Cheers, Dave.

Bonnie & Clyde · Jun 2, 2012

Good job on that conversion! Love the CR250 tank shrouds! Might need them some day.

Royce Cochran · Jun 2, 2012

Great work on bike the Daveski. I envy you guys over there having all the different models and varieties of used and new parts to choose from. Over here in the US with only the '89 & '90 TA available, you really have to be a fan and determined (obsessed). Again, really nice bike !!!

Ladder106 · Jun 2, 2012

Welcome and "Well Done", Daveski.

Nicely played

dualdogdave · Jun 2, 2012

Welcome Daveski

Very Nice !

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