New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Heck, I'm amazed at the fact mines never used oil considering that I ring the crap out of it. It spends so much time at red line it's not even funny. I'm not surprised at all I'm doing a valve and ring job at 27K miles though.

Anyone got a good link for a supplier of Mapping Switch that I can mount on my bars for my 2011 690E. Am UK based as well.

Cheers

http://www.renazcoracing.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=538871

Thanking you sir, you're a star

Swapped out the Tank Fuel filter, with the Napa 3011. Stock filter was dark? But I didn't see any alien particles in there. New filter in, took the injector off and cycled the bike on and off to clear the fuel line into a bucket. Cleaned the injector again, hooked er all up and the bike started up instantly. But stalled again...

Haven't ran a pressure test on the pump, will have to pick up a gauge (thanks again for the tip Crankshaft). No one has a sparkplug in town, so will order one tommorrow, and probably just order a Cycleworks pump and drop that in. If it doesn't improve anything, well heck I got a spare pump then. If it fixes it then I'm good to go!

Bike ran at idle for 5 minutes or so, then died. Started right back up easy enough, would idle, then die. TIre is still off it so I didn't try ridin. If I can't get it running perfect in the garage no sense trying to flog it down the road I figure...

Was so intimidated at first by working on the fuel system, but it really is simple on the 690 I'm finding? Provided the pump fixes it and it gets runnin of course...no one within 3 hours who could remap it for me either. Suppose I could check the pressure, first, and if its working try to remap, incase its off for some reason.

Will sleep on it, ride safe y'all!

MFS

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
check the TPS?
after you check pump pressure and plug

Referring to turning the electrical on and rolling the throttle on and off? Or a different check...

I'll search online before I head to work here and see...

MFS

check the voltage readings and adjust. need tune ecu or the dealer.

Phhaaa AACKKKK!! That's kinda what I'm readin and finding out. Nearest dealer 3 hours, and "the guy" to talk to didn't return my call yesterday, and it was recommended I don't leave a message but call back as he is a busy guy :huh

Will try him again of course but my crystal ball tells me it's a 6 hour round trip, and a stalling issue when I get home!

The "tuneECU hardeware is downloadable, any idea where to get the required cable in Canada? I'll have to look more in depth look after work, and see how that's all done. Might as well do it all myself and eliminate the middle guy! Sucks for them though...

Idled for 6 minutes this morning though, like a loved one comin out of a trance. We spoke, she told me she loved me, I touched her and looked in her pretty orange face as she slipped away from me again...

And when she was gone I swore at her and called her an ignorant C__t!

MFS

Have you tried googling 'tune ecu cable ktm'?

I think there is a link on tuneecu for the cable but I may be wrong. google is your friend

I finally got my new rockers and the intake is TIGHT. I expected to have to adjust the valves but I don't exactly know where to start. Is there a way to estimate the shims particularly when they are tight? They aren't cheap.

I bought my cable from Craig at CJ Designs (US).

I live in Calgary and so far have not seen any Canadian suppliers.

When you say "TIGHT" do you mean there is NO clearance? If so, are any of the shims for any of the other valves thinner? If so you could swap them around just to get a measurement. I just went down to my local Harley Davidson dealer (some harley's use the same 10mm shims) and traded shims for what I needed at no charge. I only needed 1 new shim to get all 4 valves in spec. If they are at .000" I would just start with a shim that is at least .006 thinner and go from there.

What you will need:
-A set of calipers for measuring the shim you remove.
-a shim kit About the same price as 1 hour of shop time at your local KTM shop?
-strong magnet (easiest way to remove the shims, like you use when you drop a socket into a motor and have to fish it out)
-Feeler gauge.

1. Measure the clearance and note the one(s) that is/are tight.
2. Use the feeler gauge to see about how far out they are.
3. Pull the cam out and so your rockers are loose. Its a good Idea to ziptie the timing chain to the cam gear so you don't loose the place.
4. Using the magnet, remove the shim.
5. Measure it with the calipers and find replace with the shim you need.
6. Re-install the cam and check your valve clearance again to see if you have correct clearance.

Last time we did the valves shims on my 08 we installed them loose.. around .11 mm. They are more noisy when they are loose but seem to tighten over time. I don't want to have to do valve shims in Siberia next summer.

+1, at my local HD dealer, the shims are only a couple bucks. I wouldn't waste money on a shim kit, chances are you'll never use 3/4 of the shims in there and you'll probably end up having to go buy a shim or 2 because there's not enough of a particular size in the kit.

If it isn't obvious I am new to the shims. I had to replace both rockers. The intake (new item number) is so tight I had to compress the valves a touch to push the rod through.

They seem to have some relief machined into the bottom where they go over the valve stem. I thought it might be measured from inside that relief (where my calipers or micrometer won't fit) but it sounds like they are measured at the flats.

How many brands use the same shims? I'll buy that hotcams set but if there was an S&S kit for Harleys for half the price well...

+1 on not needing the kit. Just buy them individually from a shop. They're cheap, and you'll only need a few for the life of the bike...

-1 for not needing the kit. He is starting out new. He will have to try shims until one works.

My opinion: Get a kit. Put a small shim in and see how tight it is. Try till you get within speck.
When you are checking a motor during its periodic mantainance, you have the advantage of KNOWING which shim to use. There really is no way to measure short of putting a shim in and using a feeler gauge. So unless you live next door to a shop or they will give you a hand full of shims to try, I suggest getting the kit. Especially if you live in the boonies like many of us do and don't have a close local shop.

Exactly - if there is any clearance at all -- tight or lose compared to spec -- it can be measured, and the correct shim ascertained in one shot.

If the clearance is zero, there is no way to determine the correct shim in one shot. You have to gain clearance with a small shim, then get the clearance in spec with a second shim.

Before you go buying shims... read the manual on the section about crank shaft position for checking the shim values: it is easy to try to measure the clearance in the wrong position and find zero clearance.