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Old 06-05-2009, 11:10 AM   #1
a1fa OP
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Yamaha WR400F

Everywhere I read about this bike, people praise it how reliable and worthy it is. Even the oil blow-back is not an issue for many of the guys that ride WRs.

How really is reliable this bike? My current gearing is very low.. I am constantly slipping and sliding the rear tire on the pavement. It does 60mph just fine with this low gearing, but I do have 15T or 17T front sprocket that's supposed to make it a better road bike. I feel bad for maintaining constant RPMs on this bike. It just feels like its not meant to be ridden like that. It sure makes a fun ride to work.. Makes for easy wheelies too.

How reliable is this bike going to be as a dual-sport. I really don't want to trailer it. Most of the good trails are only 40-60 miles away.

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Old 06-05-2009, 11:22 AM   #2
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I mean, it cant be that bad.. Can it? There is a guy going to Alaska on TW200. With lower gearing, I'd make it too.. Probably.
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:33 PM   #3
huggybear
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I have a 99 400 with 10G on it runs great and is a low maintainence bike,15 cs is as large as you can go,I have a 15-47 combo an it is pretty smooth at 60-70 with that combo,I have Kenda K270's on both ends,they get great mileage,about 4000 before I change them,no good in mud but for rocks and greval rds they are fine,watch the frame slider behind the CS they wear fast because the frame weld is high under the slider
I ride mine every day during deer season 38 miles each way
Great Bike
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:27 PM   #4
Pablo83
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The YZ400F was the first modern 4-stroke dirt bike and Yamaha didn't exactly know what they were getting into so they made it a little more bulletproof than it needed to be. Your bike has almost the same engine. One of the main reasons people think this bike is more reliable than other modern dirt bikes is the steel valves. On the 426 they went to Titanium like the CRFs have. Steel valves requre a lot less adjustment. This engine isn't any more reliable than older 4-stroke designs like the XR's, but it tends to do better than modern CRFs and LC4s.

IMO it takes a lot of getting-used-to when riding it on the highway. As you point out, the bike wants accelerate (and turn) more than it wants to go in a straight line at a steady speed. Plus starting it kind of sucks. Some things that will help make it a better DS are a steering stabilizer, less-knobby tires, TPS cutoff switch, an auto-decompression cam, and a cush drive rear hub. ThumperTalk offers a lot of opinions on how much of this is really neccissary.

Enjoy your bike.
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:16 AM   #5
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bumpty... took 'er to work today. she has been neglected ever since my neck started bothering me. she is a dream to ride.. wheelies in 1st, 2nd, and third... i wanted to sell her because she sits unriden, but, she is a keeper. a true wolf in sheeps clothing..

I think DR rack would fit with minor adjustments. I am going for it!!
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:28 AM   #6
Zecatfish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa
bumpty... took 'er to work today. she has been neglected ever since my neck started bothering me. she is a dream to ride.. wheelies in 1st, 2nd, and third... i wanted to sell her because she sits unriden, but, she is a keeper. a true wolf in sheeps clothing..

I think DR rack would fit with minor adjustments. I am going for it!!
I think you better get a good seat, and LOW fuel light.
I seem to remember a ride where the seat was your enemy.
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:29 PM   #7
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yamahaman, i have been following your build -- impressive.. made me want to look for XT350 to do something similar -- but then I am reminded how much I love this beast. It's been sitting in the garage for months; so I felt sorry for it and went to kick it.. It did not start on several kicks, until I realized I forgot to turn on the fuel. (I drain my carb before storage).

She fired on the first slap. :blush
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:34 PM   #8
marios
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i have dunlops 606 in my wr 400. If you ride dirt and paved roads then it is a good choice but if yiu only ride dirt forget it. You will loose grip with those things. I hit the ground hard in baja on d606 so i have experience.
My bike has a comp cam, 48 sprocket and I've hit 100mph and it was not top speed. I think it will do 102 to 105.
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:15 PM   #9
a1fa OP
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Intake 0.15-0.20 mm
Exhaust 0.25-0.30 mm

They are measured cold. If you send me the installed pad number, I can tell you what replacement to buy.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:39 AM   #10
weatherm
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cool thanks a bunch. I'm going out of town for xmas so when I get back I'll look into that.
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:33 PM   #11
a1fa OP
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cool thanks a bunch. I'm going out of town for xmas so when I get back I'll look into that.
It took me about an hour check the valves, and another 30 minutes to button her back up after my first try. I don't have good tools (and patience), and I managed to strip some bolts along the way.

Clean working environment is your friend.
Replace all stripped bolts.
Walk away if things don't go out right the first time.
I ended up dropping the cam clip into the engine, followed by the cam chain. I was so upset; and late for friends birthday party. When I came home I got both resolved without a hiccup. I also dropped a washer right into the spark plug hole... That was fun. Experience is priceless. I can now do all this within 1 hour; minus the dropping of things part.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:29 AM   #12
yamahaman
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Question draining bowls

Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
yamahaman, i have been following your build -- impressive.. made me want to look for XT350 to do something similar -- but then I am reminded how much I love this beast. It's been sitting in the garage for months; so I felt sorry for it and went to kick it.. It did not start on several kicks, until I realized I forgot to turn on the fuel. (I drain my carb before storage).

She fired on the first slap. :blush

After talking to a few top mechanic's, alot will tell you to not drain bowl before storage. The jury is out and of all of my friends in the trade it is about 50/50 about draining bowl. some do some don't. The best explination I have been given by an ex aussie factory team mechanic is as follows.

Leave bowl full of fuel untill just before use. The two reasons you drain are because the fuel goes off ie (benzines and tolulines evaporate off from the fuel rendering it unburnable) and condensation (water in the fuel) The down side of the bowl being dry is the rubbers and plastics perish due to no lubrication by the fuel. Requiring more frequent rebuilds.

I never drain my bowl unless im working on the carb. Always drain it after long storage periods just before a ride otherwise never touch it unles it doesn't start after the second or third kick. I always drain from the 17mm nut not the drain tube.

A bit sceptical on the whole draining voodoo

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Old 12-04-2010, 06:46 AM   #13
dvgonzo
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I agree with marios on the 606's. I ran and still run soft compound tires mostly cause they ALWAYS work in ALL conditions. I put on some 606's and although I got GREAT mileage out of them they were more than a little scary when you crossed a stream or riding in the wet and had to climb rocks with the tires still wet. THEN they pretty well lose about 75% of their traction...... But soft tires will go away fast on the asphalt.

I try to drain the bowls if the bike will be stored for more than a few weeks. Have tried it both ways but found if the fuel is left in there it will clog the idle circuit at the pilot jet as it evaporates out of the carb. I think it must evaporate through the jet as it makes a little hard plug in the jet that is solid as a rock. If I drain it I never seem to have this problem though.

Yamahaman, You are right, the pipe installatin makes it look a little funny but who cares when you can carry all that extra fuel!

Also what are you carrying in that skid pan/tank?
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:46 AM   #14
a1fa OP
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Yamahaman, what kind of thing do you have on your front axle? Looks like one of those bicycle things to take the front tire off..
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Old 12-04-2010, 06:22 PM   #15
yamahaman
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Talking Axel pullers and water tanks

The little widgets on my axels are axel pullers they make taking the wheels out so much easier when you get flat tires in the bush. No need to use pliers or special tools. They just bolt into the axel.

check out this mob they list them for most bikes

https://www.enduroeng.com/ProductDet...1FD-1177528277








dvgonzo

The bash guard has got a small 2 litre water tank because where we ride in the desert there are no services for upto 150km in all directions, It was made as a prototype for a guy who is racing in the australian safari in 2011 and we have been testing our design for strength and durability This is not a normal fixture on the bike.

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