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Old 10-10-2009, 06:46 PM   #1
65 Flathead OP
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$35.00 Heated Jacket Liner , $10.00 more for Gloves(DIY)

NOTE: I have postd the Heated Glove build on page 4 of this thread.


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Ok, so I had my finger on the button last weekend, the “Confirm Order” button. I had decided on a Gerbings heated jacket liner and T5 gloves. I had to look at the competitors one more time, then read a few more reviews, and, well you know the story. 5 hundred bucks ain’t no chump change to me! Well, I studied it so much that I realized, hell, I can build all of that! So here goes…

I found this wire on an ADV Rider post. It’s .30 AWG with a high temp silicon coating. They call it “hook-up wire” (Hook a brother UP). I found it here http://www.mouser.com/Wire-Cable/Wir...=83000&FS=True It’s made by Belden, PN 83000-???.
??? represents color.
I ordered a 100 foot roll for 25 bucks, plus 6 something for shipping. Living here in Bum Stuck Central Louisiana, there’s not a lot of outlets for this type of thing. I went to Wally world and bought a nylon workout jacket. Really thin, and with a mesh liner, Perfect! The wire came in yesterday so with torrential downpours not making my scheduled ride out west look too appealing, I went to work.

I started everything in the right corner. I meant to start in the left corner, but I got dyslexic when I turned everything inside out.



I found a couple of conflicting wire resistance charts, giving 30 AWG between .103 - .105 ohms / ft. Wanting to be more precise, I thought “Hey, I have a hundred feet of the stuff, I’ll check it myself. I came up with .109, stupidly forgetting the impedance factor of 100’ of wire being wound up in a 2” coil. Well, anyway…I’ll spare you all the gory details and fancy pants mathematics of it all (unless you really want it, and I’ll post) but to give me the 80 watts of heat I wanted (3 more than Gerbins) I decided on 2 forty foot sections hooked in parallel. This made routing easier because pulling anymore and I would have given up. For anyone out there with ADD, don't even start this project, just run around thinking about it all day!

Here’s the first section installed.


I ran the strands about two inches apart in the body, and six strands down each arm. On the far side (from the power cable) I ran one strand though the collar, and down by the zipper back to the power connection.

Helpful hint* If you have one of those friends that majored in underwater basket weaving, employ their skills at all costs. This is some tedious crap. After the first side was complete, I was done. As a reward, I went and bought a bottle of rum and made myself Fru Fru drinks the rest of the night.



This morning I got up early planning on riding to Monroe and Shreveport to hunt a new modular helmet, but the Fru Fru drinks still hadn’t completely left my system so I went back to work on the liner.

Here she is all wired up (Almost)



On this section, I ran 2 strands though the collar (making 3 total). The collar doesn’t fit too snug, but I’m thinking of putting some Velcro on it.

I put it on and plugged it in to my bike. 5 amps, perfect! He bile was only idling, and running around 13.8 volts.



The jacket heated up nicely, and the collar felt like a heating pad on my neck. This is going to be SWEET!!!

I soldered everything together and sewed / hot glued the main power cord to the hem of the liner.



All there is left is run the wires for the gloves (next thread) and build the controller.

And here she is!!!


65 Flathead screwed with this post 10-25-2009 at 08:00 AM Reason: DIY Gloves added!!
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Old 10-10-2009, 07:05 PM   #2
nigelcorn
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That is awesome, nice work.
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Old 10-10-2009, 07:20 PM   #3
TheMan
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Looks good! How does it work? Got any comparison to a Gerbing?
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:10 AM   #4
65 Flathead OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMan
Looks good! How does it work? Got any comparison to a Gerbing?
It hasn't been cold enough here to give it an actual test run, but when I turn it on, even at 70 dgee ambint temp, i can feel immediate heat.

I've never seen a Gerbing in person, but they advertise 77 wats, mine's 80.
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:50 AM   #5
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Use coax connectors on your gear. More efficent than SAE connectors

Depending on how they rate their gear, Gerbings are only 70 watt liners
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:52 PM   #6
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nicely done!
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:01 PM   #7
65 Flathead OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12voltclothing
Use coax connectors on your gear. More efficent than SAE connectors

Depending on how they rate their gear, Gerbings are only 70 watt liners
That's exactly what I had planned. I was leaning towards Gerbins liner ONLY because of the lifetime warranty, but I was going to buy your heat troller, because I figured if it is good enough for the others to copy it, then I'd go with the original. I have been thinking abou heated gear for years now and had thouht of using a PWM setup eeven before I knew that they were in use for this. But, since I'm oing cheap, I'll build that too. There are some preassymbled for 20 bucks, but they're 555 timer based, and it has always been my expriance that the 555 gets squirely when ambiant temp changes. I'm thinking more of a duel op amp type setup.

By the way, in case I decide to go with your gear in the future, I want to be compatible. What size are the coax connectors?
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:56 PM   #8
MrSandman818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12voltclothing View Post
Use coax connectors on your gear. More efficent than SAE connectors

Depending on how they rate their gear, Gerbings are only 70 watt liners
First gear has up to a 90w jacket.
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65 Flathead
NOTE: . . . . . I decided on 2 forty foot sections hooked in parallel.
Two loops - good. One thing you might consider is separating the terminals on one end and rig up a "jumper". I originally built my jacket liner to be used without a controller and I have terminals I can change from parallel to series. If your controller ever fails out on the road you can "hard wire" the 2 loops in a series and enjoy a constant 50% power level.
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:40 AM   #10
65 Flathead OP
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Heat Controller

I finally go the heat controller posted!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...7#post11220457
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:29 AM   #11
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Great write up!!

Love it!
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:58 AM   #12
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I've started making my own heated stuff a number of years ago.
I think from the old 'Sue's homemade heated gear' info.

I found it worked quite well, but learned some things.

1. Like mentioned, keep the wire as close and snug to your body as you can. If it sits away just a bit, it won't work nearly as well.

2. The connection to the power cord needs to have very good strain relief so it doesn't get damaged when you forget to unplug.

In the past I wired up the liners of my various jackets, but got a Roadcrafter and it didn't have a liner. I started looking into jackets to wire up, but by the time I got one that had elastic to keep it snug, some sort of windproofing- I just bought one of the Warm-n-Safe ones.

A little comparison, from a cheap...er... thrifty guy.

Having the elastic on the jacket that made it very snug but comfortable is really important to how well it works. Maybe some don't get as cold as I do, but it made a huge difference.
The heated collar was very nice and well worth addition.
Wiring that allows plugging in gloves/socks - either in parallel or separately is well work it also.

In the past I ran wires and controllers separate for jacket/gloves/socks. Now I'm running one controller for all. A bit of a trade off, since optimum temperature for each item isn't always possible, but I like it better since it is one plug-in and I have a handlebar mounted heat controller.

That said, it was well worth it for me to just buy the Warm-n-Safe jacket.
For those that don't want to spend the money (or don't have it) I'd keep the points in mind when you make one. May or may not be important to you but all worthy features for me.

Gloves, I've never tried to make any, but had some Widder ones in the past. Warm, but bulky as heck and I never liked them.
Sold them and got he Warm-n-Safe 'Ultimate' heated glove. No insulation, thin like summer gloves, knuckle guards (more on that later) and a waterproof layer.
I tired them with and without the waterproof layer and couldn't tell any feel difference at all, but the ones with the layer were noticeably warmer. I guess they don't make them like that anymore and that is too bad. Others that don't have Reynolds and problems with cold fingers may not notice the difference.

On the knuckle guards, I got in a wreck about a year and a half ago (my own dumb fault) and hit my hand very hard on something (probably the car). I had a huge bruise, but I'm convinced that my hand would have been broken without the carbon knuckle guards. I'm a big believer.

I know I'm sounding like a Warm-n-Safe rep or something, but I'm just a very satisfied customer (there customer service is fantastic).

So, keep it snug, one thin layer under, wamer layers over. Don't have the wired overlap or get too close to each other (hot spots), use decent sized wire TO the heated wire.

Mark
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:43 PM   #13
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The ultimate gloves come with or without the Waterproof liner.
Many people wrote in saying they wanted some insulation in the glove. It's a very thin layer of thinsulate. That's why the non insulated glove was dropped.

The Classic Rider gloves are best for cold riding. Larry




Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus54
I've started making my own heated stuff a number of years ago.
I think from the old 'Sue's homemade heated gear' info.

I found it worked quite well, but learned some things.

1. Like mentioned, keep the wire as close and snug to your body as you can. If it sits away just a bit, it won't work nearly as well.

2. The connection to the power cord needs to have very good strain relief so it doesn't get damaged when you forget to unplug.

In the past I wired up the liners of my various jackets, but got a Roadcrafter and it didn't have a liner. I started looking into jackets to wire up, but by the time I got one that had elastic to keep it snug, some sort of windproofing- I just bought one of the Warm-n-Safe ones.

A little comparison, from a cheap...er... thrifty guy.

Having the elastic on the jacket that made it very snug but comfortable is really important to how well it works. Maybe some don't get as cold as I do, but it made a huge difference.
The heated collar was very nice and well worth addition.
Wiring that allows plugging in gloves/socks - either in parallel or separately is well work it also.

In the past I ran wires and controllers separate for jacket/gloves/socks. Now I'm running one controller for all. A bit of a trade off, since optimum temperature for each item isn't always possible, but I like it better since it is one plug-in and I have a handlebar mounted heat controller.

That said, it was well worth it for me to just buy the Warm-n-Safe jacket.
For those that don't want to spend the money (or don't have it) I'd keep the points in mind when you make one. May or may not be important to you but all worthy features for me.

Gloves, I've never tried to make any, but had some Widder ones in the past. Warm, but bulky as heck and I never liked them.
Sold them and got he Warm-n-Safe 'Ultimate' heated glove. No insulation, thin like summer gloves, knuckle guards (more on that later) and a waterproof layer.
I tired them with and without the waterproof layer and couldn't tell any feel difference at all, but the ones with the layer were noticeably warmer. I guess they don't make them like that anymore and that is too bad. Others that don't have Reynolds and problems with cold fingers may not notice the difference.

On the knuckle guards, I got in a wreck about a year and a half ago (my own dumb fault) and hit my hand very hard on something (probably the car). I had a huge bruise, but I'm convinced that my hand would have been broken without the carbon knuckle guards. I'm a big believer.

I know I'm sounding like a Warm-n-Safe rep or something, but I'm just a very satisfied customer (there customer service is fantastic).

So, keep it snug, one thin layer under, wamer layers over. Don't have the wired overlap or get too close to each other (hot spots), use decent sized wire TO the heated wire.

Mark
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:02 PM   #14
Lotus54
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I've riden sub freezing with the non-insulated ones and still had nice, warm hands.
I like the feel of no insulation - that said I've never tried the insulated ones.

For me I'd rather have the no insulation but waterproof liner as an option, since I couldn't feel the liner anyway. Maybe others could.

Great stuff!
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:13 PM   #15
BluffU
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Hello, all I just posted a new thread today about a jacket I believe people should check out by a company called Klymit. I highly recommend it!!
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