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Old 08-14-2011, 07:05 PM   #1
Mopedgoalie OP
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Eek Help! With the Resurrection of a Honda Elite Ch150 1987

A'llo all,
Today I picked up an old -not used for 10 years- Honda CH150 Elite.
I don't have the manual for it yet, nor the papers, but they should be coming soon
The rear tire needs replacing, and I believe the fuel tank is rusted.
I'm a fresh rider, this would be my first bike.
I want to know if it would be better to stick with this baby, and project it, which would probably be very, very slow.
Or just go try and find a new moped altogether...
The previous owner told me that the battery needs to be replaced, but I can't even find the battery!
Like I said, I just got it today, I was super stoked, but now I'm worrying that it will never run.
It was last used in 2000, has a 3/4 full tank (which has been sitting there all these years) and a flat worn down rear tire.
I don't have that many tools, and absolutely no knowledge of how to fix this up...
What should I do?
Thank you thank you,
goalie.
P.S. this moped has the light that does not fold out, and is usually seen in red... if that helps
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:32 AM   #2
Bronco638
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Post this in the Battle Scooters section of the Bikes forum. There are plenty of inmates there with the exact same scoot. They'll have you up and running in no time.
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:07 AM   #3
nedc
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I recently went through this with an elite that had been sitting unused for 10 years. If you have no mechanical ability, this may be beyond you. It's fairly involved- pull and drain the tank, flush it and use one of the liner kits to reline it. Pull the carb and clean/rebuild it, new battery of course, new rear tire (not easy to get off and change). That's just for starters, you don't know what you have until you've done all of that- then there could be other problems. If you pay a shop to do it, you'll spend more than the scoot is worth. Not trying to scare you, just giving an honest assessment.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:33 AM   #4
tbonestone
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Ugh... Resurrection can be done. When I was tool-less I bought a Cruz Tools kit. It had a bunch of metric crescent wrenches and other tools common for a metric bike. I added in a quality socket set and was able to do a bunch of stuff for my scooters. Hard to say what advice to give you. If you have the money, sometimes it's worth it to have a running-now bike. My cousin's motorcycle project has drawn on for a year now and he's jonesing just to ride again.
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:00 PM   #5
HandKPhil
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Go for it.

The '87 Elite 150 was/is a sweet ride. I have a pearl white model with about 3500 miles on it, that I bought for $800 a few years ago.

It needed the carb cleaned, the tank flushed and lined with Kreem, new tires, air filter, and a new battery.

Since the mileage was low and the body/paint was in pristine condition, I re-conditioned it to like-new condition. It's been a very fun, reliable scoot.

It's not that hard to bring these back to life if you have moderate mechanical aptitude. Key the phrase '87 Elite 150 into this forum's search engine, and you will find lots of info on what you should replace.

The battery is located under the plastic tunnel cover, just in front of the seat. Spend an afternoon carefully taking the rear body panels off, and you'll see where everything is located. (you'll also learn a little about your new ride)

Good Luck!
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:24 PM   #6
bbishoppcm
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You'll suffer the wrath of god if you call that damn thing a "moped" again.

Mopeds are much smaller, have pedals, are limited to 25mph, and are not scooters.

That said, I did exactly what you're contemplating (only mine was beat to hell when I started). Fixed up, these things are good for about 60mph (65 tops), are reliable as all hell, and you will get stares; some good, some not so good. For starters, how many miles are on this thing? I already have a shopping list for you (regardless of miles) that will set you back at least $250.00 (right off the bat). If the miles are low enough, and it's in overall decent condition, I'd say go for it. Low miles are anything under 10k. If she's over 30k, I'd say find another project (just my opinion).
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:50 PM   #7
btcn
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You have a moped? Then you oviously have tranportation, so why rush the Elite? Ride the moped while you get the Elite uo and going!

Just messin with ya! But it isn't a moped, yes mopeds are 49 cc underpowered bikes with pedals. This is a scooter registered as a Motorcycle, and is Interstate legal in all states in the US I know of being 153 cc which is over the 150 cc limit.

I would agree with bbishoppcm for the most part. However miles aren't that bad on 4 stroke Scooters. 30K+ miles aren't that many if it has that many. It may need a top end job but not for over 50K miles if it was taken care of, I've seen Helixs over 100K with good care and oil changes. Plus, I doubt it has near 30K, I haven't personally seen an Elite 150 with over 30K miles! I have seen plenty ofElite 250s and Helixes with 50K+. Seems to be due to people wanting a bigger bike where as the 250s are just barley enough to be a main bike, but enough for some Interstate.

BUT lets start. If the milage is pretty low, even real low, forget it when I say all this. These are some of the basic parts Y'all will need to replace when you get your Elite 150 as its tune up unless the Previous Owner had recently done it. High miles or low [Even as low as 300 miles I don't care], you should do this:

1. ALWAYS, we can't stress this enough here, REPLACE YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD! Its the little rubber boot the carburetor goes into on the cylinder]. Regardless of milage, these fail ALL the time. They are rubber and a not so great design, and they tend to dry out and develop leaks. The leaks can be so small you can't see em, or I've seen them split in half down the middle. This seems to happen in particular to bikes stored outside, but seemingly all Elite 150s eventually. What happens if you don't replace it and it is bad? Well it'll cause your engine to run extremely lean. This is very bad. This may eventually lead to a burnt exhaust valve, piston ring failure, burning head gaskets, running hot, and in worse cases engine seizing and destruction of engine! So order one from Babbitts Sport Center or Honda Parts House, I'll help you find one if you can't find it. They cost about $28, but $28 now or a new motor/rebuild in the long run? Plus all that downtime!

2.Next do replace them tires! Any tire size 3.50X10 will work. Amazon usually has good deals on tires, just type 3.50X10 tires and you'll get all kinds of results.

3.The battery is right under the seat towards the front. Most Motorcycle shops will carry them, or you can order from varies places on the internet and even ebay [make sure its a new battery though].

4. The tank may or may not be rusted, just check inside. Its fine so long as there ain't no flakes or rust floating around in there. But I would recommend draining that shitty old gas out and cleaning the tank along with the fuel filter+Auto Petcock.

5.Clean that Carb! The most likely reason it don't run is probably because the carburetor all clogged up. The jets are probably dirty with that old bad gas. Get some carb cleaner [If you never used it always use safety goggles and use in a decently ventilated area, its pretty bad stuff. If the jets are really plugged you may need so hammer sewing needles through them, but I doubt their that clogged. Also a new carb gasket if it looks warn, and make sure the float works properly and the passageways are clean. And make sure you put ALL the hoses back on properly, if not strange things will happen! One of those hoses carries Coolant! This and a clean tank of fresh gas should get you up and running.

6. Replace them hoses! Those old dry rotted hoses aren't no good. Proper sized fuel line hoses from an auto parts store will work fine. If the vacuum line is leaking it may not run or run right due to lack of fuel sucked from the auto petcock.

7. Buy a spare CDI. I can go into detail later, but if you ever experience the chronic Intermittent power loss problem with the Elite 150s it'll be of great use.

8. Adjust your brakes correctly. These brakes aren't great as they are so improper adjustment could be life or death.

9. A new spark plug wouldn't hurt, along with a nice fresh new air filter.

10. Flush the Radiator and put in some fresh strictly NON-Silicate Anti Freeze. IF you fail to do so and it has Silicate, you pump will fail due to the wear from the Silicates. This requires pulling the motor and rebuilding the pump, not something you want to do yet.

Overall Just a few new parts and some work and you should be up and running. You don't know what they hell your doing? Well how do you learn? Doing it! I had little mechanical knowledge at first but working on my Elite and rebuilding it gave me some experience a couple years ago. I also had a messy garage with like no tools too. Know I love working on Motorcycles or Scooters of any kind, and may do it part time or full time in the future. My garage is reasonable sized, not big or huge, but its organized as hell and I have all the tools I need. I've got a big Air Compressor and am even learning to paint and just completed restoring and painting my 85 Shadow. The Elite 150 is easy to work on and a GREAT beginner bike and a base for learning the basics of wrenching. Its nice to be able to do your own tunes ups instead of dishing out $800 for an oil change, valve check and new tires. I say go for it!

As for how the bike will be, you chose a great starter scooter. Take the Safety Course if you haven't already, and enjoy it! It's reliable as a Honda Civic, has a great running smooth motor, and its pretty comfy and smooth. It'll reliably do 60 MPH, and 65+ MPH ain't a problem with a tailwind and straightaway. On like almost all new scooters, this old scooter has a nearly dead on accurate speedo, I've tested plenty of times with GPS, always within 1MPH, not within 9 or 12 MPH like a ChinaScoot or Kymco. It'll handle 2 people fine, goes great up hills, easy to ride, cruises nice at 50 MPH and like a dream at 40-45 MPH, and doesn't mind holding 55 MPH or short distances. It is interstate legal but I wouldn't recommend more than short jaunts [Maybe 1-2 exits at most]. It'll return with you with 80-100 MPG regularly depending on riding style and conditions, impressive for even it's class. Liquid cooled NEVER runs hot. Just a great little Scooter. I've had mine for a couple years and have 7 Motorcycles and still ride it all over. Give it a chance!

Good luck and ask ANY questions you may have.

BTW we should have a sticky in the Battle Scooters section for the basic Tuneup for the Elite 150 or something. It'd be nice so new guys to Elite 150s find the basics and then start threads with individual questions like troubleshooting.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:00 PM   #8
fullmetalscooter
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btcn SHOULD have a link so you down load the manual for free. You could also just google elite 150 manual pdf. You should be able to get it running without much troulbe.
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:10 PM   #9
btcn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetalscooter View Post
btcn SHOULD have a link so you down load the manual for free. You could also just google elite 150 manual pdf. You should be able to get it running without much troulbe.

Oh yea forgot that, here ya go:

http://www.hondaspree.net/other/Elit...nual_85-86.pdf
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:33 PM   #10
Da_Hawaiian
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Intake manifold




Yo btcn,

Just got a barn find here in Austin. 1987 Elite with 2300 miles. I changed the tires and a new carb. The speedometer isn't working and the gas gauge is stuck. But other than that it runs like a charm. Just read your post about replacing the Intake Manifold. Do you know where I can get one? Thanks for the tips brother.

Da_Hawaiian screwed with this post 02-13-2012 at 09:55 PM Reason: Adding photo
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:39 PM   #11
btcn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Da_Hawaiian View Post



Yo btcn,

Just got a barn find here in Austin. 1987 Elite with 2300 miles. I changed the tires and a new carb. The speedometer isn't working and the gas gauge is stuck. But other than that it runs like a charm. Just read your post about replacing the Intake Manifold. Do you know where I can get one? Thanks for the tips brother.

Honda Parts House/Babbits Sport Center, Bike Bandit, and Cheap Cycle Parts all have it, its part #16220-KN7-305 I believe, between $29-$32. But, definitly worth it, espically considering the age and super low milage of yours, its probably all dried out. Bikes like yours are one of the most prone to this, people think since it has no milage it's good and nothing needs replacin, and they soon lern the hard way when they have from a shot exhaust valve, to a siezed up engine. But you seem to know, changing the tars and all. Also, a new CDI, a Monster CDI is well priced, is a good idear while your at it.

For the speedo, did y'all check the cable at the wheel? Well, actually I'd reckon you did since you done changed the tars, but when you changed the front tar did you make sure it was tight and the actual thing was in the thing in the rim? This is the most common issue with Elite 150 speedos. I had the same issue, just was that there cable was lose. For the gas gauge I'd open it up I think it has a float or something or its electric don't know. bbishoppcm should be able to help you out with the gas gauge.


Also, another tip on these, order a shit load of exhaust/muffler gaskets while you still can. These will only last between 1,000 and 2,000 miles on average depending on how you done installed them, before the bike starts sounding like a wannabe Harley and running lean and heating rear tars. They was a poor, shitty design. A failure or design flaw, or a money maker, look at us still buying them for every to every other oil change after 26 years! But yea we should all stock up so they'll either still keep on a makin them or while we still can! I change mine every 1 to 2 oil changes, 1 if its starting to burn tars and 2 if it's still quitet, sometimes inbetween them. You have to first put it in and the muffler in, then hold the muffler/header in the head, and FIRST tighten the heater bolts, then put in the muffler bolts, just force the muffler around carefully to align the holes. I can explain in more detail if you want, but failure to do it like this, the gaskets burn quick. I believe its because doing this forms the gasket to the exact shape of the microscopic irregularties in the metal in there, and compresses it airtight, and tightening the header bolts secures it.


If you have ANY questions, please just feel free to ask, you came to the right place for the Elite 150! We got some pretty knowledable people here particularly on the 85-87 Elite 150 and the older 250 Hondas.

Sorry for the super long post, I just get carried away sometimes! Just trying to save engines and hassles, sometimes hard to keep it intresting I know!

And nice find by the way! You sure got youself a Purdy Scoot!
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:49 PM   #12
RZRob
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Another Gas Gauge

I too have an '87 CH150. I scored. I paid $300 and it had ~2k miles, a non-op, new battery and tires. I had to use Por 15 on the fuel tank, but other than that it runs great. I added a Shark 250 watt amp and speakers in the OEM location ($99 for both) a iPhone mount/charger and rock out to Pandora Radio or iTunes while cruising.

One thing, the gas gauge is stuck on 1/2 tank. It doesn't appear to be the sender. Any ideas? I don't really want to dig into the gauge itself as it doesn't look easy to get to and may not even be serviceable. Is this a trend on these?

Oh bouncy suspension too.

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Old 05-30-2012, 05:45 PM   #13
Da_Hawaiian
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Yo btcn,

Thank you for the great tips!
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