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Old 12-05-2011, 01:52 PM   #1
the cavalier OP
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regulator question

HI!


I have recently tested my regulator rectifier after a few weeks of tending my battery every night to get it running. You see, the battery itself was not holding it's voltage over night. Well i spent $200 on a yuasa battery and am wanting to protect my investment.

turns out my regulator is not running perfect...

At 1,500 rpms it's producing an average of 14. volts. great!
at 5,000 rpms it's producing an average of only 13.8 volts... hmmm.
this means that the battery is getting some charge when i'm riding at speed.
My commute is an even mix of about 5 miles on the hwy and 5 miles of traffic lights.


my questions are...
is 13.8 volts enough to keep my bike charged at hyw speeds?
is this a sign of future failure?
Am I at risk of killing my new battery?
can i put this repair off till the spring?

anyone have a spare regulator rectifier?

Thanks for the advice!
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:17 PM   #2
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more info...

There are no electrical accessories on this bike.

I did check for loss of current and also the generator coils. no problems.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:44 PM   #3
Sumi
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Did you turn on the low beam?
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:51 PM   #4
K2m
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I'm on my 3rd rec/reg........ Just replace it with the latest model. 13.8 is not enough.

New/good reg. runs 14.4/5 at idle no lights

14.4/5 at rpm lights/no lights

Two invaluable gages are a volt meter and oil temp (correct eng. temp)

A lot of people panic that their bikes are overheating because their cooling system does what it is designed to do. With an oil temp gauge you know what is really happening.

I mounted mine on the glove box



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Old 12-05-2011, 04:39 PM   #5
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The battery killing issue is not an insufficient charge issue. The batteries get a shorted cell and then will take but not keep a charge. This can be diagnosed on a battery tester. There are disagreements as to the exact cause but spikes from the rectifier, how the starter draws, using a charger at more than 1.2 amps and jumping the bike are all possible causes. The 950 is famous for shorting batteries and seemingly worse with gel batteries. You may have an additional problem of low voltage in which case change the rectifier.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:38 PM   #6
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Go and price a Rec/Reg, there reasonably priced/cheep compared to all the fucking around. Everyone should should have one handy.
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Old 12-08-2011, 01:46 PM   #7
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thanks for the replies!

i am now in search for a regulator...
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Old 12-08-2011, 02:25 PM   #8
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I got one of eBay installed it and it worked perfectly for about 10 seconds. Total waist of money. The thing caught fire sort of. This stuff had a big rap through the Yamaha forums.

So I am on my third KTM and forth rec/reg. I've had my bike since new 6 years. Change my waterpump every 15,000km ... now 20,000km. Fitted a vacuum fuel pump..... and recently fixed my starter sprang spring. That was quite funny as I rang the shop and was quoted $1,080 for the part which includes the freewheel. The broken part looks like a spring from behind an oil seal..... reached into my bag of old unused seals and gaskets and found one that fit...... I works perfect. Cost = $0,000 Easy bike to live with. No other problems
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Old 12-08-2011, 02:30 PM   #9
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K2m- which oil temp gauge is that and where/how is it hooked up? Sounds like a real good idea. Thanks
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:56 PM   #10
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The gauge is a VDO water-temp from a boating shop ...... a discount warehouse place. I got the sender from the same shop. There is a little lug on the back of the oil tank. I drilled and taped it It's been there nearly 6 years

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Old 12-09-2011, 08:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K2m View Post
The gauge is a VDO water-temp from a boating shop ...... a discount warehouse place. I got the sender from the same shop. There is a little lug on the back of the oil tank. I drilled and taped it It's been there nearly 6 years

Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:01 PM   #12
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My other ride is a 690 and I just went through the issue of a faulty regulator/rectifier. I was directed toward the Mosfet Style of R/R instead of the Sunt style as a possible upgrade/solution.

I initally purchased the "Kit" from this guy: http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm

but didn't like the breaker (vs. fuse) in his wiring for the wet pacific NW so I ended up getting some electrical components from this guy: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html

and would just get the entire thing from him in the future if I did it again. (very prompt service for a large order of many small pieces)

gefr - you get rid of that crappy connector all together and make solder connections to the wires to the stator. In its place you have a much better sealed unit and you can locate it anywhere on your bike you want. I plan on converting my 950 as soon as funds allow and think that I'll end up moving at least the starter relay, and maybe the R/R too, to a much more dry environment.

I can tell you that the hole spacings in the Mosfet unit are the same as the stock unit so, it will bolt right up however, you have additional space requirements due to the connectors. I'm not sure if they would conflict with the skid plate/gas tank or not.

Uller screwed with this post 12-13-2011 at 11:07 PM
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:53 AM   #13
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Thanks for the update.

I know from the mechanics they avoid soldering connections cause they tend to create stiff parts on the wires. That makes the ending of the soldering prone to cut, due to vibrations.
Humidity doesn't seem to be a problem, since the OEM R/R get submerged often. Heat is their major problem as they produce their share as well, but better placement is a good idea.
Cheers.

gefr screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 09:28 AM
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
I know from the mechanics they avoid soldering connections cause they tend to create stiff parts on the wires. That makes the ending of the soldering prone to cut, due to vibrations.
Humidity doesn't seem to be a problem, since the OEM R/R get submarined often. Heat is their major problem as they produce their share as well, but better placement is a good idea.
Cheers.
I do believe that no solder is SOP for airline electrical systems. I use waterproof heat shrink on each connection and then again on the outer cover. That stuff is rigid and would probably be enough to hold the wires together by itself. I have absolutely no worries about my soldered connection.

In regards to the humidity, I was mainly referring to; a. that stock electrical connector going to the stator. It isn't a sealed unit and every one I have looked in was full of crap and had the wires starting to corrode. and b. The starter relay has been the culprit for many on here with running issues. It seems there is a thin piece of wire which corrodes. I've seen it in a few threads and in the HOW.

When I was researching the R/R units I found a vat of info on Triumph forums. They were using the same (or very similar) shunt style R/R. So many of them were failing that Triumph warrantied them. Anyhow, in laymens terms, what I got was that the shunt style do not work very efficiently. The higher the rpm of the motor the more voltage is put out by the stator. The shunt style will have to work harder due to the increased load and will actually allow less voltage to the battery than at idle. Basically their technology is crap and they fail due to internal heat and poor components not really external heat from the motor and being in an enclosed environment (sure this doesn't help though). Plus, when they fail it is very irregular and in spikes that ruin other components and the battery. It certainly isn't good for the 990 folks with all the sensors. It can lead to running issues IMO.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:39 PM   #15
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Whatever happend to the people that tried the MOSFET RR??
i'm really interested!
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