ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-07-2012, 05:26 AM   #1
Skinner OP
Mr.KTM
 
Skinner's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Lake county Il
Oddometer: 5,574
Concrete counter tops

I am building my own counter tops from concrete, I have the floors reinforced so you don't have to warn me etc, etc.

My problem is after I remove the sides of my form ' the size is 7 x 5 by two inches thick' so it can not be precast, the top edge will be crisp, any suggestions on how to smooth it out, a sidewalk finishing trowel with the round over effect will not work as that will an edge on the sides after complete.

So, outside of trying to accomplish this while wet, and not feeling good about trying to do it free hand with a grinder as I feel this will leave a rough uneven edge, anyone have any suggestions on how to round over the crisp edge that will be left removing the form?

The sides are easy, I know to vibrate the form etc, just researching the options for smoothing the top/side transition. I have poured three small practice pieces and even tried my router while the concrete was green, but that was a big fail : . I might try sandpaper and a belt sander, but an angle grinder and free hand has too much risk of a screwup.

Got any ideas for me?
__________________
You might be an ADVRider if:

You recognize your friends by the sound of their mufflers.
http://www.meetup.com/Chicagoland-Du...torcycle-Club/
www.jimstarwaltteam.com
Skinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 05:52 AM   #2
KeithinSC
Beastly Adventurer
 
KeithinSC's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Sandhills of SC
Oddometer: 1,163
What about profiling the form prior to pouring? You mentioned a router, if it is still functioning maybe you can shape some wood to the edge you need and tack them onto the form. Wax or oil the forms for an easy release.
Good luck, post up some pics of the successes (or failures?!)
KeithinSC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 06:00 AM   #3
Skinner OP
Mr.KTM
 
Skinner's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Lake county Il
Oddometer: 5,574
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithinSC View Post
What about profiling the form prior to pouring? You mentioned a router, if it is still functioning maybe you can shape some wood to the edge you need and tack them onto the form. Wax or oil the forms for an easy release.
Good luck, post up some pics of the successes (or failures?!)
On my sample pour I did put an angle piece that will provide a 45 degree edge whe removed, so we will see ow that works.

I'll take lots of pics
__________________
You might be an ADVRider if:

You recognize your friends by the sound of their mufflers.
http://www.meetup.com/Chicagoland-Du...torcycle-Club/
www.jimstarwaltteam.com
Skinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 06:39 AM   #4
JamesG
Rabid Poster
 
JamesG's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Columbus, GA
Oddometer: 10,946
Why a bare concrete? You could tile it and use bull nose edge tile to round the corners as part of the finish. It will both last longer and look better/finished.
JamesG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 06:48 AM   #5
Skinner OP
Mr.KTM
 
Skinner's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Lake county Il
Oddometer: 5,574
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesG View Post
Why a bare concrete? You could tile it and use bull nose edge tile to round the corners as part of the finish. It will both last longer and look better/finished.
Then why bother with concrete at all?

I could tile anything.

The concrete counter will be oh so cool!
__________________
You might be an ADVRider if:

You recognize your friends by the sound of their mufflers.
http://www.meetup.com/Chicagoland-Du...torcycle-Club/
www.jimstarwaltteam.com
Skinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 08:26 AM   #6
JamesG
Rabid Poster
 
JamesG's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Columbus, GA
Oddometer: 10,946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinner View Post
The concrete counter will be oh so cool!
I guess if you like the taste of concrete...
JamesG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 07:05 AM   #7
Skinner OP
Mr.KTM
 
Skinner's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Lake county Il
Oddometer: 5,574
Quote:
Originally Posted by tirebiter;,
[COLOR=palegreen
The problem with using them on concrete tops is the more material you take off, the more aggregate gets exposed.[/COLOR]
If you can get your hands on silicon carbide sand paper, that works too.

Here's an example of hand pads. Keep'm wet, they'll wear out real quick if used dry.
http://www.contractorsdirect.com/Con...mond-Hand-Pads
Good tip thanks!
I just checked out the site you linked to, that looks like the ticket for my edges, using the hand pads will be perfect! And 4" grinder pads are the cheapest I've seen! $9.99 each!
__________________
You might be an ADVRider if:

You recognize your friends by the sound of their mufflers.
http://www.meetup.com/Chicagoland-Du...torcycle-Club/
www.jimstarwaltteam.com
Skinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 07:22 AM   #8
Dave in Wi
Beastly Adventurer
 
Dave in Wi's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Madison WI (40 Square Miles Surrounded By Reality)
Oddometer: 1,904
Subscribed. I'm very curious to see how this turns out. I remember seeing a This Old House episode where they hired someone to make concrete countertops, as I remember it seemed more complicated than you'd think. Take lots of pics!
__________________
Dave in WI
2002 ZRX1200R
1975 XL100
1988 DT50
"Daddy, it's five o'clock sometime!"
Dave in Wi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 08:21 AM   #9
Strong Bad
n00balicious
 
Strong Bad's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Oddometer: 3,743
What about making a trowel with the desired radius?
__________________
"I couldn't wait for success, so I went ahead without it."
Strong Bad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 08:56 AM   #10
GH41
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Oddometer: 822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinner View Post
I am building my own counter tops from concrete, I have the floors reinforced so you don't have to warn me etc, etc.

My problem is after I remove the sides of my form ' the size is 7 x 5 by two inches thick' so it can not be precast, the top edge will be crisp, any suggestions on how to smooth it out, a sidewalk finishing trowel with the round over effect will not work as that will an edge on the sides after complete.

So, outside of trying to accomplish this while wet, and not feeling good about trying to do it free hand with a grinder as I feel this will leave a rough uneven edge, anyone have any suggestions on how to round over the crisp edge that will be left removing the form?

The sides are easy, I know to vibrate the form etc, just researching the options for smoothing the top/side transition. I have poured three small practice pieces and even tried my router while the concrete was green, but that was a big fail : . I might try sandpaper and a belt sander, but an angle grinder and free hand has too much risk of a screwup.

Got any ideas for me?
Concrete bricks or pavers will work well for breaking the edges and they are cheap. I assume you are not using an agregate? Are you using fiber or wire mesh?? At 2" thick it WILL crack without reinforcement. What are you sealing it with? GH
GH41 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 10:32 AM   #11
Skinner OP
Mr.KTM
 
Skinner's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Lake county Il
Oddometer: 5,574
Quote:
Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
I assume you are not using an agregate? Are you using fiber or wire mesh?? At 2" thick it WILL crack without reinforcement. What are you sealing it with? GH
I guess I am using an agregate? I will be using quickcrete 80 lb bags. I will have a 12 inch overhang, so that will the interesting part as far as reinforcing, that's why the 1/2 inch rebar, I will support the underside with 2 x 4's during the pour and cure, leave under for at least a week.

I'll get some pics up soon.
__________________
You might be an ADVRider if:

You recognize your friends by the sound of their mufflers.
http://www.meetup.com/Chicagoland-Du...torcycle-Club/
www.jimstarwaltteam.com
Skinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 11:17 AM   #12
showkey
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Wausau
Oddometer: 1,743
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinner View Post
I guess I am using an agregate? I will be using quickcrete 80 lb bags. I will have a 12 inch overhang, so that will the interesting part as far as reinforcing, that's why the 1/2 inch rebar, I will support the underside with 2 x 4's during the pour and cure, leave under for at least a week.

I'll get some pics up soon.

I would suggest adding extra cement to your "Quickcrete concrete mix" to make a much stronger concrete.

A 6 bag mix equivalent would be the minimum. It is hard get a Quickcrete bag mix rating but I think it is not close to 6 and the true rating is real sensitive to the water ratio.

5 bag mix = 2500 psi concrete.....generally used for footings

6 bag mix = 3000 psi.......the minimum I'd use for a surface type concrete

7 bag mix = 3500 psi ........ and so on....

The "Pounds per Square Inch" rating is a bit misleading......the rating for footing concrete would also hold about any vehicle you would park on it ( including your house ).......but the higher the PSI or bag mix, the more Portland cement in the cubic yard.

What that does do, is give a better surface finish. As you increase the cement, the finisher has more to float to the surface and you get a denser finish that will resist surface cracks, chipping, etc......assuming of course it is finished correctly ( not allowed to freeze or get too dry during curing ).


Bottom line more cement in the mix (with reason) the better. But it must remain consistent from batch to batch for color match, strength and finish quality etc and with a12' over hang, strength is critical.

Good luck practice practice practice
__________________
1982 CX500 Turbo ,2006 ST1300, 2012 NC700X
1971 CT90,1981 C70, 1986 TRX 250,
1993 TRX300 4X4, 2001 TRX500 4x4, 1987 XR250L
showkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 11:53 AM   #13
Skinner OP
Mr.KTM
 
Skinner's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Lake county Il
Oddometer: 5,574
Here is the temporary counter top that will serve as a base for the new one


__________________
You might be an ADVRider if:

You recognize your friends by the sound of their mufflers.
http://www.meetup.com/Chicagoland-Du...torcycle-Club/
www.jimstarwaltteam.com
Skinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 09:17 AM   #14
ragtoplvr
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: S. W. Mssouri
Oddometer: 5,576
You can go to a cooking equipment store and buy huge polypropylene cutting boards pretty cheap. Profile edge with router. cut off strip. Repeat. Tack into mold. Pour. Vibrate. cure and touch up with sandpaper. This keeps the aggregate away from the edge

Rod
ragtoplvr is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 09:57 AM   #15
Skinner OP
Mr.KTM
 
Skinner's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Lake county Il
Oddometer: 5,574
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
You can go to a cooking equipment store and buy huge polypropylene cutting boards pretty cheap. Profile edge with router. cut off strip. Repeat. Tack into mold. Pour. Vibrate. cure and touch up with sandpaper. This keeps the aggregate away from the edge

Rod
Nice tip, thanks
__________________
You might be an ADVRider if:

You recognize your friends by the sound of their mufflers.
http://www.meetup.com/Chicagoland-Du...torcycle-Club/
www.jimstarwaltteam.com
Skinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014