DR650 Engine / Transmission Rebuild

rch10007 · 03-14-2012, 10:16 AM

I recently bought a 2002 DR650SE with, what the PO called, a "noticeable ratcheting sound". Removing the clutch allowed me to see the issue. The output shaft bearing is toast. There were small pieces of it in the bottom of the cases. So far, I have not found any other signs of damage. The PO said he shut down the bike soon after hearing the noises, thankfully!

I have taken down the engine as far as I can without a rotor removal tool (which I ordered from ProCycle). I can't see if there are any issues with gears yet but I thought I'd come here and ask a few questions:

1. Since I am splitting the cases, should I just replace all the bearings and seals, or only what I need?
2. What do I use to clean the components with, like the clutch plates, to ensure I get rid of all the metallic soaked oil?
3. What the hell is Suzuki Bond and can I use Ultra Grey instead? Should I use something different for the cases than I do the valve cover?
4. Should I replace all the screws (like the ones holding the neutral safety switch) with stainless allen bolts? A few of them I will have to replace. Blue loctite?
5. How far should I take the rebuild since I have the entire motor apart? (i.e. lap the valves, upgrade gears, other mods?)
6. What should I know that I don't?
7. Where's the best place to buy parts?

I will post up some pics in a few and will continue to take them along the way for anyone interested in killing time looking at them! :)

gunnerbuck · 03-14-2012, 11:01 AM

#1-Sometimes metal debris from a part meltdown will damage some bearings, really inspect them closely... Also how many miles on the engine? If it is up there and you plan to keep the
bike for a while, I would replace the bearings + seals through a bearing supply outfit.
#2-Clutch plates can be cleaned with soap and water, rinsed, dried and then dropped into a bath of oil until ready to install.. I usually use varsol to clean up the cases and parts...
#3- The valve cover will need something different than the cases, use something that handles heat like 3M -1211 or similar on the the valve cover..
#4 That is purely optional, but sometimes stainless to aluminum reacts badly causing electrolosis... I never use loctite on case screws but some people do... I do use loctite inside on such things as the shift support mechanisms and anything that holds a moving working part in place...
#5 If the miles are up it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a valve seat service done professionally... This would include a 3 angle regrind + new stem seals, this service is usually pretty cheap to have done and renews the valve performance to a like new condition...
#6 Is that a trick question?What do you know?
#7 Some Suzuki Guys can answer that..

rch10007 · 03-14-2012, 06:05 PM

Something is missing here!

What could it be?

Here's what the piston looked like - seems like it was tuned well...

Pic with the motor out.

rch10007 · 03-14-2012, 06:07 PM

Should I be concerned with the "burnt" look of the components in the next 2 pics?

Here's what I got until the DR is back on the street:

bomber1965 · 03-15-2012, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keswind

You know you'll probably want a case splitter tool, right?

opium89 · 05-22-2012, 04:53 PM

I really don't mean to offend anyone, but how do I put this delicately? DO NOT EVER SEPARATE A CASE LIKE THIS!!!!

Go spend $40 and get yourself a case splitting tool. Anyone taking a screwdriver to the edges of an aluminum or magnesium case should rightfully be flogged.

rocksterboxer · 05-29-2012, 05:35 AM

Well, looks like I may have to split my case open as well. Third gear just went on Sunday. I have never spit a case before, but look forward to following this thread for any info and tips. I will be ordering the case splitter from Pro Cycle as well and the rotor puller.

Unbelievable, 2008 with only 11000 kms on it. Bought it when it had 4200kms. Never had a problem. Even went to Cape Breton on it last year. Changed the oil every 3000 kms.

rch10007 · 05-29-2012, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocksterboxer

Well, looks like I may have to split my case open as well. Third gear just went on Sunday. I have never spit a case before, but look forward to following this thread for any info and tips. I will be ordering the case splitter from Pro Cycle as well and the rotor puller.

Unbelievable, 2008 with only 11000 kms on it. Bought it when it had 4200kms. Never had a problem. Even went to Cape Breton on it last year. Changed the oil every 3000 kms.

It's been awhile but I will update a few things that may help. I don't have any pictures right now...

First, get the service manual. It has the entire procedure, with pictures, and is very easy to follow.
Second, it is much easier to break loose the big nuts if you use the frame of the bike as a second pair of hands. I took the entire motor out and broke it down until I got to the last few bolts, like to the one on the crankshaft. I put the cases back into the bike and then used a long pipe as an extension to break them loose.
Third, try to find the correct tools for the job. I'm sure you can manage, like the guy splitting the cases above in the video, but screw that. I bought all the correct tools and it took about 15 secs to split the cases when I got all the bolts off.

Right now, I have everything broken down and have been inspecting the parts for wear to determine what to replace. The output shaft bearing is the only thing damaged so far - the cause of the rebuild. However, I now believe that this motor has been into before. The 3rd gear looks to have been replaced. It is different than the rest. My assumption is that whoever replaced it damaged the bearing upon rebuild and that lead to its failure.

Plan on this to take weeks! Unless you can get parts down the street, you'll have to order them in. I would suggest waiting to buy until AFTER you break the motor down and look around. You may have to buy an entire new motor and if you go buying parts now, you'll have wasted your money.

My plans at this point: continue cleaning and spec'ing all the parts and then ordering what I need to rebuild. I'm not in any hurry and I'm still recovering from a couple of surgeries all while babysitting 2 kids under 2yrs old, so things happen slowly for me. Eventually, I will finish this thread with pics, but in the meantime, this is what I got.

Utah Bones · 05-29-2012, 06:42 AM

....

rocksterboxer · 06-04-2012, 08:32 AM

Thanks for the update RCH, I'll have to take the engine out and take it apart. I do plan to order the tools and order parts only after I have had a look. I am also keeping and eye out for new motor, just in case.
I'll keep you posted on my developments as well.

rocksterboxer · 06-17-2012, 09:20 AM

I have ordered the case splitter and Fly wheel puller from Procycle. Do you guys think that I would need other tools such as: Clutch holding tool and gear puller for transmission .

I wish there was a list of tools needed by those that have done this. Replacing the gears sort of worry me a little.

I read somewhere that the new gears have have to be pressed back in. I also read that gears can be heated in the oven and others placed in the freezer to make them fit.

ADV8 · 06-17-2012, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocksterboxer

I have ordered the case splitter and Fly wheel puller from Procycle. Do you guys think that I would need other tools such as: Clutch holding tool and gear puller for transmission .

I wish there was a list of tools needed by those that have done this. Replacing the gears sort of worry me a little.

I read somewhere that the new gears have have to be pressed back in. I also read that gears can be heated in the oven and others placed in the freezer to make them fit.

Don't forget a dished 36 mm ring spanner to go with the puller.
EBC do a clutch holding tool for $20 (eBay)
2nd drive gear needs to be removed to get to 3rd but am going to go the hydraulic press route.

http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...eneral/DRgear/

Ideally you need the con rod locking tool also.
I had no problem splitting the cases without the case tool personally.

rocksterboxer · 07-03-2012, 08:20 PM

Finally took the top end off. This is what I found:

The cylinder lwas spared but so far con rod and piston are not looking good. Waiting for puller and splitter to know more. What a bitch to get the cam sprocket and chain off with a seized engine.

Rhyno · 11-08-2012, 01:46 AM

I have read through and I am curious as to how its coming or how it's running....

Any updates?

Thanks.....
-Rhyno

Rhyno · 11-13-2012, 11:12 PM

Thanks......

05-29-2012, 06:42 AM	#9
Utah Bones Gas X ready! Joined: Apr 2008 Location: Homeless in Wisconsin/Utah.... Oddometer: 1,574	.... __________________ Tito's vodka a weber grill and the rocky mountains,...it all goes away!

06-17-2012, 09:20 AM	#11
rocksterboxer n00b Joined: Apr 2009 Oddometer: 9	Tools needed I have ordered the case splitter and Fly wheel puller from Procycle. Do you guys think that I would need other tools such as: Clutch holding tool and gear puller for transmission . I wish there was a list of tools needed by those that have done this. Replacing the gears sort of worry me a little. I read somewhere that the new gears have have to be pressed back in. I also read that gears can be heated in the oven and others placed in the freezer to make them fit.

11-08-2012, 01:46 AM	#14
Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator Joined: Oct 2012 Location: 1000 Miles from nowhere..... Oddometer: 38	I have read through and I am curious as to how its coming or how it's running.... Any updates? Thanks..... -Rhyno __________________ I make all of the idiots cry.....Their personal insecurity depicts the size/childness of their remarks and replies......

11-13-2012, 11:12 PM	#15
Rhyno PrsnalityAccentuator Joined: Oct 2012 Location: 1000 Miles from nowhere..... Oddometer: 38	Thanks...... __________________ I make all of the idiots cry.....Their personal insecurity depicts the size/childness of their remarks and replies......

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03-14-2012, 10:16 AM	#1
rch10007 ^OP Dotted Quad Ranger Joined: Aug 2010 Location: San Antonio, TX Oddometer: 39	DR650 Engine / Transmission Rebuild I recently bought a 2002 DR650SE with, what the PO called, a "noticeable ratcheting sound". Removing the clutch allowed me to see the issue. The output shaft bearing is toast. There were small pieces of it in the bottom of the cases. So far, I have not found any other signs of damage. The PO said he shut down the bike soon after hearing the noises, thankfully! I have taken down the engine as far as I can without a rotor removal tool (which I ordered from ProCycle). I can't see if there are any issues with gears yet but I thought I'd come here and ask a few questions: 1. Since I am splitting the cases, should I just replace all the bearings and seals, or only what I need? 2. What do I use to clean the components with, like the clutch plates, to ensure I get rid of all the metallic soaked oil? 3. What the hell is Suzuki Bond and can I use Ultra Grey instead? Should I use something different for the cases than I do the valve cover? 4. Should I replace all the screws (like the ones holding the neutral safety switch) with stainless allen bolts? A few of them I will have to replace. Blue loctite? 5. How far should I take the rebuild since I have the entire motor apart? (i.e. lap the valves, upgrade gears, other mods?) 6. What should I know that I don't? 7. Where's the best place to buy parts? I will post up some pics in a few and will continue to take them along the way for anyone interested in killing time looking at them! :) __________________ Philosophy is written in that great book which ever lies before our eyes... Galileo

03-14-2012, 11:01 AM	#2
gunnerbuck I.Hopp. Joined: Nov 2005 Location: N.V.I, B.C. Oddometer: 3,080	#1-Sometimes metal debris from a part meltdown will damage some bearings, really inspect them closely... Also how many miles on the engine? If it is up there and you plan to keep the bike for a while, I would replace the bearings + seals through a bearing supply outfit. #2-Clutch plates can be cleaned with soap and water, rinsed, dried and then dropped into a bath of oil until ready to install.. I usually use varsol to clean up the cases and parts... #3- The valve cover will need something different than the cases, use something that handles heat like 3M -1211 or similar on the the valve cover.. #4 That is purely optional, but sometimes stainless to aluminum reacts badly causing electrolosis... I never use loctite on case screws but some people do... I do use loctite inside on such things as the shift support mechanisms and anything that holds a moving working part in place... #5 If the miles are up it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a valve seat service done professionally... This would include a 3 angle regrind + new stem seals, this service is usually pretty cheap to have done and renews the valve performance to a like new condition... #6 Is that a trick question?What do you know? #7 Some Suzuki Guys can answer that.. __________________ 640 A x 2 gunnerbuck screwed with this post 03-14-2012 at 01:50 PM

03-14-2012, 06:05 PM	#3
rch10007 ^OP Dotted Quad Ranger Joined: Aug 2010 Location: San Antonio, TX Oddometer: 39	A few pics... Something is missing here! What could it be? Here's what the piston looked like - seems like it was tuned well... Pic with the motor out. __________________ Philosophy is written in that great book which ever lies before our eyes... Galileo

03-14-2012, 06:07 PM	#4
rch10007 ^OP Dotted Quad Ranger Joined: Aug 2010 Location: San Antonio, TX Oddometer: 39	More pics... Should I be concerned with the "burnt" look of the components in the next 2 pics? Here's what I got until the DR is back on the street: __________________ Philosophy is written in that great book which ever lies before our eyes... Galileo

05-22-2012, 04:53 PM	#6
opium89 Beastly Adventurer Joined: Dec 2008 Location: Hutto, Texas Oddometer: 1,134	I really don't mean to offend anyone, but how do I put this delicately? DO NOT EVER SEPARATE A CASE LIKE THIS!!!! Go spend $40 and get yourself a case splitting tool. Anyone taking a screwdriver to the edges of an aluminum or magnesium case should rightfully be flogged. __________________ Tea parties are for little girls with imaginary friends.

05-29-2012, 05:35 AM	#7
rocksterboxer n00b Joined: Apr 2009 Oddometer: 9	Well, looks like I may have to split my case open as well. Third gear just went on Sunday. I have never spit a case before, but look forward to following this thread for any info and tips. I will be ordering the case splitter from Pro Cycle as well and the rotor puller. Unbelievable, 2008 with only 11000 kms on it. Bought it when it had 4200kms. Never had a problem. Even went to Cape Breton on it last year. Changed the oil every 3000 kms.

06-04-2012, 08:32 AM	#10
rocksterboxer n00b Joined: Apr 2009 Oddometer: 9	Thanks for the update RCH, I'll have to take the engine out and take it apart. I do plan to order the tools and order parts only after I have had a look. I am also keeping and eye out for new motor, just in case. I'll keep you posted on my developments as well.

07-03-2012, 08:20 PM	#13
rocksterboxer n00b Joined: Apr 2009 Oddometer: 9	Finally took the top end off. This is what I found: The cylinder lwas spared but so far con rod and piston are not looking good. Waiting for puller and splitter to know more. What a bitch to get the cam sprocket and chain off with a seized engine.