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Old 11-09-2012, 04:30 PM   #1
booger1 OP
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Eating goat with the Cartel

I've got 19 days to do an epic ride. I chose Mexico this year. I attempted Baja 2 years ago, but blew my engine up 4 days into the ride.



As soon as I got back I started the rebuild, now with electric start. Fresh motor, I'm ready to go again.
I purchased Lizard Lady maps, E32 GPS maps, and spent a whole lot of time on google earth trying to find some great spots to go for.
8 months of mapping, planning and coordinating with 2 other people, I think I've got a solid plan.
Just a couple of months before the adventure begins, both riding partners fell thru, my Spanish isn't going very well either, but I push on with my plans.
I change bikes, since this will be a solo trip, lets be more comfortable.



A few course changes, Baja peninsula, ferry to Mazatlan, Espinoza Del diablo, Copper Canyon, and lot of historical places, gear is decided on, now I'm set.



Starting mileage



Day starts off like any other big trip does, late start, got the butterflies in my stomach, but not too long I pass up a border patrol agent who gives me the thumbs up, mp3 player to ear bleed, Hurricane Paul has died down to a tropical storm. I'm heading south of the border.

Immigration takes an hour and half, Go in this door, hand over passport, take this paper work over to the Aduana, they want my passport, go back over, collect passport and other paper work, head back over to the Aduana. They don't think my registration is good, they walk over to another building, then they go look at the bike. Money is exchanged, TVIP is secured, permit is in my pocket and I head south out of Mexicali and then west towards Laguna Salada.
Laguna Salada is a dry lake bed almost 33 feet below sea level, 37 miles long, and at its widest area 11 miles.
Which makes this a great place to start my Mexican adventure.





Seems like a bad place to lose your shoes and what might be a pair of underwear, I didn't go any closer for inspection.





Being from the Phoenix area I thought I was comfortable with heat, but just standing here breathing, is causing a waterfall effect from my forehead.

I'm soon off the Salada and making my way to my first nights planned camp (the only planned night), Canon de Guadalupe.



The oasis is in the horizon



This is a great place. Motorcycle parking only.



I stroll around until I find someone, he leads me to a nice campsite with a private hot spring tub.







The water is very hot, way too hot after crossing the Salada, so I'm told of a waterfall on this well marked hiking trail, with Cairns, evidently, others have felt that it wasn't marked well enough as there where Cairns all over the place, but after a few turn arounds and sliding down big boulders, I dip into the cold water and cool my overheated body down.





The hike back above the campground.



Like any other Gringo, you see a donkey, you take a picture, but these guys really like their pictures taken as they started to follow me around.





I duck behind some trees and when they weren't looking, I made a fast break back to camp.



The evening brings on an awesome sunset and the water has cooled off enough to try out the hot tub.





The man boob shot



I don't bother putting up my tent, it's still pretty warm so I lay my sleeping bag on the table, I'm way too excited and have a hard time falling to sleep, because I'M RIDING MY MOTORCYCLE THROUGH MEXICO!!!!
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:38 PM   #2
rtwpaul
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liking it already...
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:06 PM   #3
Scubalong
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Cool

Gualalupe hot spring yeah........
Have fun and be safe
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:26 PM   #4
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Fun

booger1

Nice start on the ride report. I'm in.

I really enjoyed the pictures. Makes the 12" of snow that's forecasted for this weekend a little more bearable!

Ride safe and thanks for posting.

Rob
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:34 PM   #5
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The next morning the alarm goes off, my friends have found me.



Take a look at the GPS maps. As the bird flies I'll have about 30 miles until I hit pavement, so I opt out of breakfast thinking when I reach a store I'll get something. Fill up the camelback and I set off.
I set off along a sandy track that seems to go on for miles, the sand takes the front wheel one direction and the rear the other and it's not long before the sand really confuses the bike and I'm down.



I take a bush with me.



Several more attempts at trying to stay on the road, I decide to try cutting a new trail that will hopefully have more solid ground, but these are false hopes and I retreat back to the road.



What seems like 35 miles and 3 hours, the GPS leads me off the sandy bottom into the mountains on harder ground. I think this is good, anything to be away from that sand.



It's still blazing hot and the trail seems to be getting rougher.



I go back through my maps and my notes to see if there is another option. There's no detail on the paper maps and the GPS is telling me that I've gone too far to turn back now, meaning I'll most likely run out of fuel before hitting any sign of a decent road. I check to see if this is one of Lizard Lady's routes, nope this is one I concocted on my own using the wonderful tool we're all able to use, Goggle Earth.



The trail is getting more and more gnarly the farther I go, I keep pressing on, guzzling my water whenever I get stopped by an obstacle. I leave my jacket unbuttoned as to let more air flow through whenever I'm moving, it doesn't seem like enough.
I see a vehicle ahead and feel somewhat relieved, but as I make the approach, it's a burned out suburban, this can't be good. It's either got something to do with drug trafficking, insurance fraud, or it got so thirsty and hot it just burst into flames. I don't bother to stop and investigate.
I start up a steep incline of loose rock and dirt, round the corner, find my line, make the approach, the front wheel gets on top, but the rear chooses it's own path and down I go.
I try to pull the rear of the bike up on the high part of the trail, but can't, so I let the front come down into the groove. Pick the bike up, start it and try pushing along side it, tire just spins, and then it starts to move, then the rear comes around and the bike falls flat. I try this attempt several more times with no further progress, I'm stuck good, and the worse thing is I'm out of water. I study the maps and can see some kind of ranch about 5 miles from me. I start to take off on the hike to find some help, but my now dehydrated body is no match for the steepness of the hill. I walk back to the bike and hit the SPOT help button. I lay down in the groove my tire has dug with the bike over me to protect me from the sun.



I lay there thinking about this trip and what I'm doing out here in Mexico about as far away from human contact as possible and if I should get out of this, do I continue this trip, for an hour and half. I suppose the cool dirt that I'm laying on and being protected from the sun by the bike over the trench I decide that I'm not going to spend the night here. I make the decision to try one more time before hitting the SOS button.
In my sandals, I stand the bike up, rev the crap out of her while pushing and the bike comes out, I jump on and ride it the 40 feet to the curve and fall over again, I don't bother picking it back up, I walk back to get my boots on, pack the jacket into the top bag and carry everything back up to the bike and remount. Pick the bike up, start it and take off around the corner into the next switch back until I'm stopped by some more boulders that I crashed into, but I made it over the tuff stuff. After 4 hours, the hill that held me captive, I've now escaped. However, I keep the help button going on SPOT, knowing that I'm not really out of it until I can get some water.
I'm starting to fell better as I ride, the road, just like that got alot easier, I come up to the ranch house that was 5 miles away to find it abandoned, but I still go in to see if there is anything useful to help my situation.



Unbelievable, a coke bottle with water in it, stuff is swimming around in it, so out comes the steripen, but the stuff is still swimming, the only sure fire way to kill the bad stuff is to burn it.







This is torture, it's hot, I'm thirsty, and now I have water that's too hot to drink, but it is safe. I pour the contents into my camelback while I boil the remaining water.
I take a sip, it's still to hot, but I feel some relief. I let the water cool down and start looking around for any other sources of water, but find none, I go back to drink some more of the very warm water and start to feel alot better, I lick my lips to make sure none of the water goes to waste, but something doesn't feel right.





My lips had started bleeding, maybe the dehydration, or maybe the hot water.

I take in all the water that I can and set off, I still need more.
The trail turns into a slightly wider trail or road and run into a couple walking hand in hand away from a house, my mouth still dry I blurted out "necesario agua, no agua cuatro horas".
And the response surprised me so much, I could have cried.
The lady says "Oh, do you need water?"
I just didn't expect that, but she led me up to the house that had blankets for windows and a door where the family was cooking chilies on a 55 gallon drum and making tortillas on a make shift bench with tiles. She points to the water spicket and I charge at it.
After a short while I was able to tell the lady the whole story as she translated it back to the rest of the family. They offered to have me stay for dinner and to let me make camp there.

I think back and think I should have taken them up on that offer, but why start doing things that make sense now? (the water was all I really needed).
I thanked them and tried to give them some money, but they refused and wished me luck on my Grande Moto Aventura.
They tell me I must be crazy for doing this solo and give me the nickname Adventure Man and laughed.



I leave feeling overwhelmed by their generosity and make it out to the highway.
It's now 4pm and I find breakfast, a Monster and a pack of something that looks like ding dongs, it's not much but the store didn't have much.



The bike comes to a halt a little further down the road, out of fuel, I use the 2 one liter jugs and make it to a road side barrel gas station in Heroes de la Independencia. I must still be feeling the effects of the earlier days mishap, as I gave the lady way too much money, she corrected me.

The turn off to Mikes Sky Ranch







The dinner that was served was just what I needed.



As I was finishing up, a group had pulled in with 2 couples. They were down on vacation as well, and preparing for the big Baja race. They were able to give some route advice as I have now decided to scale back my adventure a bit. It didn't take long for me to find sleep.
Today's total milage was 135. Doesn't seem right with all that had happened.
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booger1 screwed with this post 11-09-2012 at 08:03 PM
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:27 PM   #6
Klay
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Tight spot there, glad you got out okay. I bet you were wishing for the smaller bike for a mile or two.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:36 PM   #7
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What a bad ass report!! you are a true bad ass gringo!

man, that was like reading a short adventure book, glad you are ok and was able to pull through, and must be a tough bike to take all those falls and still keep going, awesome thread.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:44 PM   #8
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Booger,
A Baja ride is always a good ride....no matter what happens


Welcome aboard Baja


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Old 11-15-2012, 08:03 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Booger,
A Baja ride is always a good ride....no matter what happens


Welcome aboard Baja


+1 Ged !!

Thanks for posting Booger, most of your stops are familiar, including the dirt naps

Back again in Feb. '13
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:02 PM   #10
swamp
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Thumb Memories

Andy you fucker!

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Old 11-15-2012, 05:53 PM   #11
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Andy you fucker!

I said I was coming back.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:03 PM   #12
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Back out on the highway I spot 2 bikers on the side of the road cooking breakfast. I stop and introduce myself.
These guys are on their way to Argentina, they're taking their time, I believe they were only going to go up the road another 20 miles or so to make camp, that's when the subject of time came up. We're not sure what day it is or the time. I guess that's a good thing when traveling.
But I look a the GPS and see it's only 11:00. I can see I won't be traveling with these guys, and then I look at the calender and discover it's Wednesday.



Crap, I've got to get moving. I've scheduled the ferry for Thursday online to help with my lack of Spanish and the confusion I would be in, also I had found out that by booking online you can save a little bit of money.

In the mean time this lady pulls up and starts talking to these guys in a mix of Spanish, English and French. We all kinda of start laughing at this, but she's better prepared for Latin America than I am.
I love meeting the people on the road and hearing how they're traveling and where they're going, but I've got to get going if I want to make it to the bottom of Baja and then come back up to La Paz to catch the ferry.



I get confused going through La Paz but find my way to the highway that leads towards Todos Santos.
It was a long ride, but I make it before sun down and start to ride through to make up time, but when I reach the end of town, I pull off the road and look at the map.
I really don't want to rush but time is getting away. There's so much to see, but this town looked interesting to me. So I turn back, I can make that loop tomorrow.



I find this hotel behind the laundry mat for 350 pesos.



My room was the first one on the left, wheel chair accessible.



It's across the street and around the corner from the famous and all booked up Hotel California.



The hotel is very accommodating and understands my desire to make sure my bike is locked up and gives me a room that they say my bike is welcome to go into.
A concept I never thought about, asking, I usually just put the bike in, and hope no one would see.



I check my e-mails and see the guys at work have been following my SPOT and a link to my smugmug page. They're upset that I don't have any photos of the women of Mexico. So I leave my room and set out on a determined to find the girls of Mexico and make my work friends happy.

I find one doing some kinda photo shoot. I sneak in for one.



The photographer gives me the evil eye so I turn to take a photo of the mission behind me.



I go for another and he's had enough of me. They pack up.



I go back to the Mission.







There's something going on in there so I leave, don't want to walk in on something personal.
And now I follow the model and the photographer.



There doing a commercial inside the Hotel California, but I feel it would be really bad to have the flash go off as there recording so I give them their peace. I can only give the guys these photo's of 1 girl, but I'll keep my eye out.
When taking the road less traveled it's hard to find girls out in their bathing suits waiting to have their pictures taken.

But I continue to walk around town.



And find comedy.



My favorite. I should have a T-shirt made up like this.



Todos Santos seems to be a popular spot for the Gringo's. Once in the middle of town I find it hard to find a taco stand so I settle for a sandwich shop, I'm the only customer but they produce a very hearty sandwich and I sit there by myself eating. When done I look for someone to pay and soon enough a lady comes out, we try talking, she's trying to speak English and me Spanish, this would have been a great opportunity during dinner to learn Spanish, but the business is done and I head back to my room.
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booger1 screwed with this post 11-16-2012 at 08:20 AM
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:30 PM   #13
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todos santos

That's funny. I stayed in the same room in spring. Left the bike on the patio. Went to the beach near town that had killer waves literally. A few miles south of town I went to see the fishing boats come in. I came over the mountain from San Jose del Cabo. That is a good ride. Forget the name. Thanks for the report !
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:47 PM   #14
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Many thanks for a good ride report.The gringo tourists from cabo take day trips to Todos Santos.There is a very good restaurant just behind that motel and across the street from Hotel California.Mexican food and a$$ kicking maguaritas.3 and you are plowed.Something about damiana liquer.I hope to be down there on my bike just after xmas.I have noticed your and some other inmates ride reports and I am taking notes for good motels in baja.I havent had a bike past the Bay of LA.I am going from San Felipe to Cabo and back running both sides.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:51 AM   #15
booger1 OP
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Originally Posted by oldxr View Post
Many thanks for a good ride report.The gringo tourists from cabo take day trips to Todos Santos.There is a very good restaurant just behind that motel and across the street from Hotel California.Mexican food and a$$ kicking maguaritas.3 and you are plowed.Something about damiana liquer.I hope to be down there on my bike just after xmas.I have noticed your and some other inmates ride reports and I am taking notes for good motels in baja.I havent had a bike past the Bay of LA.I am going from San Felipe to Cabo and back running both sides.
I almost went into that restaurant but it looked like too nice of a place for a lone stinky adventurer to sit down .
Bay of LA was as far as I made it the first time, it felt good to pass up the location where my motor blew up, got a great feeling of accomplishment and was praying really hard that nothing was going to happen to this bike. I'm looking forward to going back with my girl, but we have a hard time going to the same place. The world is just too damn big.
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