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Old 01-10-2013, 09:17 PM   #1
farmrjohn OP
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Help-stuck valve adjustment covers

3 out of 4 valve adjust covers are stuck on my Yamaha TX750. When I rebuilt the top end the engine was out of the bike and I did the initial valve adjustment without the main cover on and did not remove the adjustment covers at that time. Now it's time to check the valve adjustment, and I can only get one cover loose. Any suggestions other than pulling the engine to get the main cover off? The covers are aluminum with a 27mm hex, and the hex is starting to round off on the three that are stuck.[IMG]file:///Users/johnjones/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG] The forum won't allow me to post a pic. but here is a link to what the valve cover(s) look like. Thanks. http://tinyurl.com/bekmfje

[IMG]file:///Users/johnjones/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/moz-screenshot-1.png[/IMG]
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:29 PM   #2
sailah
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If they are already rounded, get some new ones from ebay and use vise grips
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:04 PM   #3
PeterW
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If they are already rounded, get some new ones from ebay and use vise grips
I'd go for that as well, at least they are easy to adjust once you have the covers off.

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Old 01-11-2013, 08:24 AM   #4
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Use a socket or wrench, preferably six point. Do not use a open end wrench. A little heat on the area around the caps should cause expansion and they should break free. Silver neverseize on the threads upon reassembly.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:39 PM   #5
concours
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wee-twin View Post
Use a socket or wrench, preferably six point. Do not use a open end wrench. A little heat on the area around the caps should cause expansion and they should break free. Silver neverseize on the threads upon reassembly.
Neither will fit or work in this case. Thread seizure isn't the issue, it's flooded with oil back there. It's the design of the plug. They did that since new when overtorqued (most all were)
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:32 AM   #6
woodly1069
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what wee-twin said!
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:21 AM   #7
Claytonroy
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Originally Posted by woodly1069 View Post
what wee-twin said!
Yep, and I'd start with a good dousing of PB Blaster.

A couple of whacks with a plastic faced dead blow hammer might not hurt either.....you could even do this with the socket in place.

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Old 01-11-2013, 02:11 PM   #8
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You could also drill two holes in each cover, but a grade 8 bolt in each hole, then use a long wrench or pipe or something to lever against the bolts and unscrew it. But I'd only do this as a last resort if they're really trashed. Also: be smarter than me and make sure you don't let the lever come loose and hit yourself in the forehead. I got really tired of explaining that bruise.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:56 PM   #9
farmrjohn OP
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Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately there is not room to use a socket. A socket/impact wrench would have been my first choice but there is not room with the design of the frame. I was using a box end wrench but as mentioned the hex heads are starting to round off. I'm hesitant to use a torch on the intake covers due to the proximity to the carbs. I'll try the PB Blaster/hammer technique before going to the more destructive methods. Getting the PB Blaster to stay on a mostly vertical face will be a bit of a challenge. It will be a pretty impressive set of vise-grips to grab the hex, and I'm also hesitant to drill a through hole which could leave metal shavings inside the cover while it's attached to the head. At least "spares" are available.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:06 PM   #10
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Buy the correct wrench... a thin six point box wrench (dirt bike axle wrench) made by Motion Pro. I have a LOT of tools, but that had to be added to my arsenal for my TX750. Nothing else would work in there. The stubborn ones came right out (even though they were fairly well bitched up already) with a thump of the plastic faced dead blow in this wrench, no more drama.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch

http://www.bikebandit.com/moose-ride...ch-by-fredette

Some knuckle dragger had tried the above mentioned hex rounding methods before. Here's the center punch method that was ineffective.


and some other mouth breather's handi-work:
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:28 PM   #11
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Would you suggest the Cruz, Moose Racing, or the Motion Pro T-6 http://tinyurl.com/bbj46xx ? I've been using a conventional open end/box end wrench, but a 12 point vs. 6 point, and without tapping.
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:28 PM   #12
concours
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Originally Posted by farmrjohn View Post
Would you suggest the Cruz, Moose Racing, or the Motion Pro T-6 http://tinyurl.com/bbj46xx ? I've been using a conventional open end/box end wrench, but a 12 point vs. 6 point, and without tapping.

I got the Moose wrench. Your conventional box wrench has a bevel on on each side, to guide the box onto the nut faster. Unfortunately, the shallow height of the aluminum caps hex makes that box lead unusable as it only engages a very small amount. I considered grinding flush the box, but it's still a 12 point, no good for the task, and, I didn't want to tear up a Snap-On for this shite

Only problem with the one in your link, it's aluminum, which is an asset when you're carrying it, but a bit weaker than steel.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:42 AM   #13
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Or you could use the correct wrench. I was amazed that I had this wrench in my tool kit. It has an off set in it to clear the fins. I don't see how a flat wrench would work,, unless you removed the gas tank maybe. How are you guy's doing it.

I would take a pic of mine,, but I trashed my camera. Here's one one ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tchlink:top:en


The reason for me even having my TX750 is because of the tool kit. I went to look at the bike, but the motor was locked up so I passed. But I wanted the tool kit. Offered the guy $20 for it since it was correct for my 72 XS2. He declined my offer. Wanted to keep the tool kit with the bike since other people were coming to look at it.

After a couple of days of rejection's from lookers on the locked up bike, I called him and asked did he want the $20. He said come and get the tool kit. As I was leaving, he asked for an offer for the bike. I said I didn't want it. After a little back and forth,,, I got the bike for $40.

OK. Sorry I got side tracked.

The manual says to use the "Valve adjusting tool found in the Special tool kit". What is this tool.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:08 AM   #14
farmrjohn OP
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That correct wrench made the all difference getting the plugs loose. A conventional box end wrench didn't work as it started rounding the corners.

I suspect the special valve adjustment tool is special sized for the TX. I ordered one of the standard valve adjustment sets, and all the sizes were wrong-too small. I wound up using conventional wrenches and holding my mouth just so, but it's difficult to gauge the torque on the lock nut that way (at least for me).
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:57 AM   #15
CalsXS2
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Originally Posted by farmrjohn View Post
That correct wrench made the all difference getting the plugs loose. A conventional box end wrench didn't work as it started rounding the corners.

I suspect the special valve adjustment tool is special sized for the TX. I ordered one of the standard valve adjustment sets, and all the sizes were wrong-too small. I wound up using conventional wrenches and holding my mouth just so, but it's difficult to gauge the torque on the lock nut that way (at least for me).

What wrench did you end up using.
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