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Old 01-31-2013, 03:38 AM   #1
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Seized brake pin.

I rounded out the allen head on the brake pad locating pin, in the front twin-pot Nissin brake caliper on my XR600. It seems to be in there tight.
Anyone got any advice on how to free it up? There isn't much to grip or grab at, unfortunately, and the pads are due for replacement.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:58 AM   #2
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Well, since you are throwing the existing pads away, you can be generous with the WD-40.

There's another thread here somewhere about someone with a simillar problem, WD-40, then hammer a philips head impact driver bit in and use a hand impact driver to try and whack it loose.

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Old 01-31-2013, 04:55 AM   #3
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There should be room to get on the pin where the pads ride with a pair of vise grips, a partial turn just to break it loose. Pull the wheel off to get the rotor out of the way. You're getting a new pin soon anyway, right?
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:04 AM   #4
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Torch. Butane and small like a crack whore torch or creme brulee. Use it to get some capillary action going with penetrating oil. A couple of cycles...maybe more.
Then try to break loose per above posts. Easy out perhaps as well.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:44 AM   #5
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if it won't come off the normal way I use one of these:

find a nut that fits over the allen & weld it on

drill off the head
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:37 PM   #6
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Some useful sounding suggestions there folks, I appreciate the assistance.

I think I might try a couple of applications of WD-40 (I actually use CRC, but similar stuff) then all of the above (but not simultaneously ).

Except Beezers idea, I'm not sure if you grasped where this is friend, it sits in a place where there's no access to weld anything. Thanks for the thought though.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:41 PM   #7
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Generous application of heat, then let it cool down. The expansion/contraction should help break some of the bonding that is holding it together.

Follow that by driving a Torx bit into the stripped out hex recess in the bolt. Use a hammer to get it in there nice and tight. You don't want to be too fond of the Torx bit you are using. That should give enough bite to get it turning.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:54 PM   #8
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the wire feed can reach into some pretty small spots. Ive used the welding idea with a 1/2" long piece of steel tube that just fits the head of an allen, weld inside, then grab with vicegrips. a nut is easier. what you got?
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:53 AM   #9
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I've got a front caliper you can have if you want it. You would just need to pay shipping. PM me if you want it.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:59 PM   #10
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I've got a front caliper you can have if you want it. You would just need to pay shipping. PM me if you want it.
That's the best suggestion yet!

Seriously, I just got a replacement pin and some new brake pads yesterday afternoon, I'll tackle this problem shortly and let you know how it goes.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:06 PM   #11
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Thumbs down

Well, what a fiasco.
First off I took a hammer and drift and gave each end a solid collection of blows to hopefully loosen things up.
Next I tried hammering in a security bit to see if it would grip enough, but I had my suspicions this was only forcing the thread wide and locking it in. I merely ended up with more internal rounding as a result.
I tried the next size up allen key, same result.
Then I took a drill and began to drill it out, followed by an ezy-out. The ezy-out just snapped off in there, flush with the base of the hole.
Further attempts to drill it were not looking good, so I took a punch to mark the centre of the ezy-out for accurate drilling, and the puch broke off.
Thinking this can't get any worse, I decided to grab my dremel to cut the pin end off, and upon removing the screw from the dremel attachment for the cutting wheel, the screw sheared off.
I hacked with another attachment and managed to get the cutting wheel to take off the ends of the brake pad plates, so I could at least remove the pads and get them out of the way. I then cut the brake pin and got the blank end out. This left the majority of the pin in situ, and I had a go with some vicegrips, but due to the small working area they kept slipping. I got a grindstone in the dremel and put a flat surface on the pin so the vicegrips would get some purchase, and spent 30 mins sweating, cursing, and adjusting those vicegrips, but the pin remains where it was.

Long story short, I'm off to the local rallycar race workshop tonight to see my "little mate", who can work miracles. It might cost me a six pack, tops, but probably it will be a freebie. This has given me the utter shits.
And on the weekend I'm buying a butane torch from ALDI, because they are on sale and I could have used one today.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I did try a few, and some others I didn't have the gear to do it. I'll let you know how my little mate solves it. I suspect it will involve a welder.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:00 AM   #12
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the other really horrific thing that works is.... the cutting torch. aluminum has a very high specific heat, which means it dissipates heat really well (thats why they are used as pistons)... steel can be melted out of an alu block and not hurt the alu.

I have blown broken studs out of aluminum heads with very little to no damage to the base metal. it is very "exciting" becaused molten steel is sprayed out of the hole when you do it
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
the other really horrific thing that works is.... the cutting torch. aluminum has a very high specific heat, which means it dissipates heat really well (thats why they are used as pistons)... steel can be melted out of an alu block and not hurt the alu.

I have blown broken studs out of aluminum heads with very little to no damage to the base metal. it is very "exciting" becaused molten steel is sprayed out of the hole when you do it
Except the specific heat of Al isn't involved.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:56 PM   #14
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How ever the caliper delema turns out be sure that you apply never seize on the next pin to keep it from doing what the previous one did.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:39 AM   #15
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I would go with #9 or #10.
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