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Old 03-01-2013, 10:31 AM   #1
svs OP
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Rebuilding my VW Type One 1600cc motor

I'm going to rebuild my VW Air cooled Type 1 engine. Currently it has single port heads and is running with a 30-PICT carburetor. The vin on the motor starts with AH so it's dual relief 1972 case and should be a good to use if it all checks out at the machine shop. RIMCO is in my area and they know the VW motor better than about anyone and they are the machine shop I plan on using for parts inspection and I'm leaning towards them assembling the long block when I get the parts sourced and together.

Around $2500 is my budget... Used parts, New parts, keep the heads, use DP heads, single carb, dual carbs, turn key motor.....??

I'm entertaining thoughts and opinions. Not looking for HIGH horsepower, but strong, reliable and semi-good gas mileage. Old motor revved to 4k and I want a more usable power band.. at least rev to 5k with power would be fine.

Swing Axel, stock drum brakes and it's a BAJA BUG... low end torque and gas mileage work great when off road... Pleasure vehicle not a race vehicle.

Parts, thoughts, crass humor... what ya got?





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Old 03-01-2013, 10:38 AM   #2
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I'm pretty sure something about a "TDI" will surface soon enough...
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:54 AM   #3
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This is probably a little tail happy though.





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Old 03-01-2013, 10:50 AM   #4
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Definitely go with DP heads. Theres lots of info out there on which ones are good and which are not. Hell there was a two part artical a couple years ago in Hot VW's that was a good read. Have you talked your plans/needs over with RIMCO? they may have some pretty good ideas.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:06 AM   #5
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Im in, i love an old aircooled!
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:19 AM   #6
svs OP
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The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP.

I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life.

Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:35 AM   #7
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This one is a 1776 and has plenty of power, I am doing a 1300cc bug right now.

I understand the rail is quite a bit lighter, but after the snow melts it is going to get driven to work from time to time....quite often I think.

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Old 03-01-2013, 11:48 AM   #8
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The sanba,is a good site for VW info.
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:30 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Chuck Pryce View Post
The sanba,is a good site for VW info.
Don't forget shoptalk as well.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svs View Post
The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP.

I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life.

Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..

That VW was in Laguna Beach a few years ago, so not too far from you. If on a budget, just a light going over would probably give you the most bang for the buck. I don't know anything about bugs though. Closest I ever came to owning one was when I bought a Corvair. Try Bugformance.

http://bugformance.reachlocal.com/?s...r_id=182866790
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:13 PM   #11
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Upgrade to 2.3L Type4, turbo, and never look back.. I use Adiran at Headflow Masters for my Type4 rebuild... He was reasonable.. I wanted bigger valves (42x36), and in hindsight, I should've ordered different cam..
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:46 PM   #12
d mc gee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svs View Post
The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP.

I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life.

Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..
Keeping the SP heads may be best for you. Especially if you can save or re purpose your funds in other areas of the engine. You were happy with them before? You will most likely be happier with them freshened up, and the rest of the motor upgraded.
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svs View Post
. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..
Listen to your friend, he knows his crap.

SP heads are much better at handling heat and high load conditions (eg: a heavy Baja at low revs up a hill or dune) than DP heads. Best way to get torque is throw a crank in it. Stock Solex and CB Performance centrebranch works really well, adding a SVDA dizzy will cool it better and use a lot less fuel. 110 cam is too big, a 1835 with SP heads will rev clean thru to 5000 with only good valve seats and chambers, a good exhaust (like a cheap Trimil Baja or 2-tip) and 1.25 rockers using a STOCK cam, a 110 cam will only kill the torque under 2200 not add HP until over 4500 (and even then only a few HP). I wouldn't go out as far as 94mm bore personally, with SP heads I'd prefer to run a 76mm crank and 90.5mm "B" pistons (1955cc vs 1915cc), less chance of cracking the cases and better cooling.

Never thought I'd say all this crap on ADVRider!

The other option is to do what everyone else is telling you to do, then put up with soggy throttle response (coz it's only a little engine.......), crap fuel economy compared to other 4 cylinder vehicles (coz it's got really tall tyres........), and limited heat capability and engine life (coz after all it's a 50yr old design........).

But until you've tried a well-built big cc SP motor Superstocker, you'd never know there was anything amiss with everyone elses cookie-cutter VWs.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:27 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MODNROD View Post
Listen to your friend, he knows his crap.

SP heads are much better at handling heat and high load conditions (eg: a heavy Baja at low revs up a hill or dune) than DP heads. Best way to get torque is throw a crank in it. Stock Solex and CB Performance centrebranch works really well, adding a SVDA dizzy will cool it better and use a lot less fuel. 110 cam is too big, a 1835 with SP heads will rev clean thru to 5000 with only good valve seats and chambers, a good exhaust (like a cheap Trimil Baja or 2-tip) and 1.25 rockers using a STOCK cam, a 110 cam will only kill the torque under 2200 not add HP until over 4500 (and even then only a few HP). I wouldn't go out as far as 94mm bore personally, with SP heads I'd prefer to run a 76mm crank and 90.5mm "B" pistons (1955cc vs 1915cc), less chance of cracking the cases and better cooling.

Never thought I'd say all this crap on ADVRider!

The other option is to do what everyone else is telling you to do, then put up with soggy throttle response (coz it's only a little engine.......), crap fuel economy compared to other 4 cylinder vehicles (coz it's got really tall tyres........), and limited heat capability and engine life (coz after all it's a 50yr old design........).

But until you've tried a well-built big cc SP motor Superstocker, you'd never know there was anything amiss with everyone elses cookie-cutter VWs.
+1 listen to this guy, great advice here. The other option is a 74mm crank and machined thick wall 88mm jugs, not sure if any of that is still available in these "bigger is better" days. I also stick with basically a 100 profile cam or better yet just leave it stock, I live in the desert and want my engines to run cool, get decent fuel mileage and last, I actually prefer a stock single port 1600.

marksbonneville screwed with this post 03-09-2013 at 07:32 AM
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:23 AM   #15
svs OP
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Pulled the heads and cylinders off...





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