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Old 03-16-2013, 09:05 AM   #1
boscat OP
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Location: canada
Oddometer: 14
950 direction?

So I bought a 2004 950 that i knew was not running. The fellow told me he was riding and the motor started to really raddle like the cam tens let go. He took it to his local dealer and they quoted him in the thousands to fix and it would never be the same again. The price was right and the bike looks like new. The bike has sat about 5 years and thats when i came across it. It only has about 12 000 miles on it. Been reading on here lots so last night I pulled the plastics off and drained all fluids. And as suspected the filter was all wavey. The oil its self looked real good. Pulled the oil screen, nothing on it. Magnet on drain had a little, nothing abnormal. Antifreeze was about half up the rad and the cap looked gross, rubber seals al curled up and cracked up.

Here is my question. Did I get lucky? Simply change the pump seal and run it hoping the filter was water logged?

Or now that I have all the plastics off should i do a leak down, comp test and do the valve clearance, clean carb ect...

By the way I checked the VIN and the bike should of had the head Gsk/bolts update done to it but shows that its never been done.

I want to do the pump seal regardless so I am leaning towards doing the seal and try to run it with fresh oil just to see where I am at with the motor.

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:12 AM   #2
Orangecicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscat View Post
So I bought a 2004 950 that i knew was not running. The fellow told me he was riding and the motor started to really raddle like the cam tens let go. He took it to his local dealer and they quoted him in the thousands to fix and it would never be the same again. The price was right and the bike looks like new. The bike has sat about 5 years and thats when i came across it. It only has about 12 000 miles on it. Been reading on here lots so last night I pulled the plastics off and drained all fluids. And as suspected the filter was all wavey. The oil its self looked real good. Pulled the oil screen, nothing on it. Magnet on drain had a little, nothing abnormal. Antifreeze was about half up the rad and the cap looked gross, rubber seals al curled up and cracked up.

Here is my question. Did I get lucky? Simply change the pump seal and run it hoping the filter was water logged?

Or now that I have all the plastics off should i do a leak down, comp test and do the valve clearance, clean carb ect...

By the way I checked the VIN and the bike should of had the head Gsk/bolts update done to it but shows that its never been done.

I want to do the pump seal regardless so I am leaning towards doing the seal and try to run it with fresh oil just to see where I am at with the motor.

Thanks in advance
Tough question. If it were me, I'd go ahead and do a valve check. At the same time, I'd put the new head nuts and washers on per the TSB. When you do that, you'll have to pull the cam bridges off. If the bridges are scarred from running with a lack of oil pressure . . . hmmmmm. Not good. If the cam bridges look pretty good, put the new head washers/nuts on, get the valves in spec, and ride it. Cam chains are not going to go bad at 12K miles (generally). Excess chain noise was probably caused by a lack of pressure on the cam chain tensioners, and it's just going to be a question of how long the engine was starved of pressure. The cam bridges will show the worst of the wear. If the bridges are not "too" scarred up, I'd just fix the water pump (CJ Racer upgrade), put in a Scott's filter, and ride.
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:28 PM   #3
dmn0507
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I agree with orangecicle.
Check cam bridges conditions before spending any money on that engine, if they look okay most probably the engine is good
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:59 AM   #4
boscat OP
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Tear down

Well i pulled most of it apart last night. The lobes look like new on the cams. The rear cyl specs where spot on but the front intakes where only sitting at about .003 so out a little. I did not pull the bridges yet as i dont have the service man yet. Want to wait till i have it as i could not make sense out of the marks on the end of the cam gears in relation to tdc.

Even after sitting for 5 years i was suprised at how much oil was still on all the gears and cams. I think things are going to look good. Or hoping I guess.

Anybody have any thoughts on the water pump shafts. KTM has updated all the shafts and seals. Would the one from CJ Designs still be a better set-up? Ktm parts are much easier to get for me thats all.

Might do a leak down on it when I get the manual just to make sure the head gsk are not leaking. I hope not but now would be the time to find out.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:09 AM   #5
Katoom72
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https://dl.dropbox.com/u/103697227/front.xps
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/103697227/rear.xps
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/103697227/valveadjust.xps

No need to wait.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:47 AM   #6
Orangecicle
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I have a fairly early bike, and my rear cylinder's cam markings were very, very faint. Finding TDC on that jug was challenging. What really helped was having the factory engine blocking bolt. If you have the factory part (rather than making your own), you know when you are in TDC because the bolt will fully seat into the block. If you are not perfectly on TDC, the bolt sticks out a little. The HOW has good guides on valve checks and pulling the cam bridges. Just remember that on the rear jug, look for the "X" marks that are on the lobe side of the cam gear (facing you as you turn the motor backwards). On the front, look for circle marks (on the outside facing you as you turn the motor). The lobes angle in toward the center of the jug on the rear on TDC, and lobes angle out away from the center of the jug on the front on TDC.

Do one jug at a time. Get close to TDC and then try to get your blocking bolt in place. If it won't go all the way, you are a little off. Only pull the cam bridges when you are on TDC. They will break otherwise. You need some special tools to get to some of the head nuts. The two on the outside of the cylinder are actually up under the top of the head, so you need some kind of an extension to get to them. KTM makes a special tool ($55 or so), but there are other ways to do it.

The real guide to oil starvation on the motor will be the cam bridges where the cam journals run. If they look like this:


then you have a problem. The rest of the engine may be fine, but there's no real way to fix that on the heads. the solution would be rebuilding the upper end with new head, IMHO.

Best of luck!
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