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Old 06-21-2013, 05:58 PM   #1
superkram OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 136
Sold FJR, bought DL1000. Let the farrrrkles begin!

So. Sold my FJR to an inmate (Timan) who gave me his '06 DL1000 plus cash. Nice guy, was glad to see it go to a good home. So now, I have a new toy! Like all new toys, things must be tinkered and futzed with until it becomes "yours"

First pic: The DL1K in NC as Timan owned it
-Cee Bailey screen
-Shad pannier racks
-Power Commander V
-Superbrace fork brace
-Givi top mount
-Givi bars, etc


Second pic: My driveway 2 days after Timan brought it down to FL
-removed Cee Bailey for stock screen
-rotated stock bars forward
-added iPhone5 RAM mount
-hung my required "safety turtle" from Fiji (long story, don't ask)
-made secure spot for toll transponder under windscreen
(some leftover 3/4" metal banding between Madstad mounting bolts)


Went and registered, insured, and titled it. Showed up at work and went on an eBay buying binge. I know, I'm supposed to save money and be responsible, but I need to enjoy this bike!

Today's eBay purchases:
$80 Givi E45 knockoff - I had a 39L Bestem T-929 on a previous DL650 and was happy with it. The 42L T-982 should be fine as well, I'll use the included MonoKey-style mounting rack and remove the current Givi MonoKey top rack
Moose CR Hi handlebars - I forgot how much I hate the sweep-back on the stock bars of pretty much every bike I've ever ridden. I'm 5'11 with a 31" inseam, but have a long torso with wide shoulders and T-Rex arms. The wide shoulders mean my arms are spread further out, which causes the normal width & sweep-back of most bikes to be painful after a while. Plus, I like a slightly more leaned forward feel in the turns.
Silver-whitey Reflective Wheel Tape - Just about every bike looks awesome with reflective wheel tape. Helps break up the monotony of black wheels and black tires.

Should look good with the upcoming rattlecan satin black paint job!
Don't worry, I've done this several times with great results:

2007 DL650 (previously bright bass-boat blue... )


And the '01 FZ1 that came after that... (also previously bright Yama blue)



Now...the DL1K only has 15K on it, but the clutch shudders and the chain feels feels a little off, so obviously the rear spacer wasn't changed out for a 2mm spacer mod. Went ahead with the DL1000 Rear Wheel Spacer Exchange program from Richland Rick, who's now running orders directly from his site at AdventureTech instead of through the VSRI forum.

And just because I'm due for a new helmet anyway, I sprung for a new black Shoei Qwest for $330 with free 2-day shipping. Lots of great reviews, and my 3-year old Shoei RF1000 already has 35K miles worth of humid FL sweat, occasional sneezing fit boogers, springtime love bugs, etc. Picked up a mirrored gold CW-1 visor for $20 shipped too.

Busy day for me and my farkles! This weekend, will start sanding down the bedliner currently on the front panels of the DL1000 and hopefully get a few decent satin coats down before the farkles start arriving.

Am all ears for ideas from inmates! Would like to:
- switch to a 530 chain with 16/43 sprockets
- improve braking feel (SV1000 front calipers with SVRacing kit?)
- replace the new replacement Trailwing tires with PR3 front & back
- upgrade front/rear suspension (looking at Daugherty, among others)

After this, I'm going to need help with the PC-V that's currently on it. Is there a way to find out what mapping it currently has? I'm tempted to just take it out and go with a Holeshot exhaust/TFI setup.
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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:16 AM   #2
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superkram View Post

Should look good with the upcoming rattlecan satin black paint job!
Don't worry, I've done this several times with great results:
That's subjective.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:35 AM   #3
superkram OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 136
New SunPass toll transponder bracket

As any rider knows, stopping for tolls and fumbling for change is a bigger PITA than in a cage. It's also hard to find a place to secure your toll transponder from targets of opportunity.

And frankly, sometimes suction cups or velcro just won't cut it on a bike. I've lost one suction-cupped SunPass transponder in the middle of a tropical downpour (don't ask) and always feel leery about leaving transponders unprotected in parking garages and downtown streets.

My solution on the DL1000 was to secure my SunPass transponder with a leftover piece of metal band between the mounting bolts of the Madstad bracket shown below. Very self explanatory, just unbolt the windscreen, cut your metal band to fit, and re-assemble using the regular bolts of your Madstad bracket.

Head-on view:


Right (starboard) bracket:


Left (port) bracket:


Top view:


Normal view standing near the Vee:


The SunPass transponder is still easily visible beneath a clear windscreen, but I plan to replace the factory windscreen with a tinted shorty version soon. Even if you use a clear windscreen, it would still take a dedicated thief 2-3 minutes to remove the windscreen and metal bracket to reach the transponder. You can replace the bracket screws with optional Torx bits for an added bit of security.

Hope this simple mod helps fellow riders who use EZ-Pass or SunPass toll transponders on their Madstad brackets!
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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:37 PM   #4
jules083
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Looks good so far.

How do you like it compared to the FJR? Is it as good of a passenger carrying bike?

Seems like every time I pull my FJR into a campsite or something I'm ready to sell it for something lighter, but every time I get on the road again I decide to keep it. I change my mind daily sometimes about it. Great bike though, can't complain too much.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:09 AM   #5
superkram OP
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Location: Central FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
How do you like it compared to the FJR? Is it as good of a passenger carrying bike?

Seems like every time I pull my FJR into a campsite or something I'm ready to sell it for something lighter, but every time I get on the road again I decide to keep it. I change my mind daily sometimes about it. Great bike though, can't complain too much.
I'm the same way. The DL1000 brakes aren't on the same level with the FJR or FZ1 brakes. The DL1000 is definitely lighter than the FJR, but not so light that it blows me around like my previous 1st gen FZ1 in crosswinds. DL1000 shifting (1st-2nd, 2nd-3rd) isn't smooth out of the box like the FJR, 1st FZ1, or DL650. I just got the 2mm rear-wheel spacer mod in the mail from Richland Rick, so hopefully we'll see an improvement there.

Haven't had any passengers yet on the DL1000, but the DL650 I had before wasn't bad 2-up. The FJR is definitely nicer for long rides, whether 1-up or 2-up. I haven't met a better long-mile bike on the slab yet, and am praying I don't regret giving this up, since I easily rack up 8-10K+ miles/yr on the slab in FL, just from commuting or weekend trips from Orlando to Tampa or Miami where you just want to make the miles to your destination, then enjoy the local riding.

I wanted a lighter bike like the DL1K because a lot of times I wanted to do errands, ride to downtown events with scarce parking, or short non-highway rides, and sometimes just didn't feel like it with the FJR's heft.

We'll see how it goes! I'm looking forward to the results of the 2mm rear-wheel spacer mod.
__________________
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350

superkram screwed with this post 06-25-2013 at 06:21 AM
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:13 PM   #6
Jnich77
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Location: Orlando Fl
Oddometer: 593
Quote:
Originally Posted by superkram View Post
As any rider knows, stopping for tolls and fumbling for change is a bigger PITA than in a cage. It's also hard to find a place to secure your toll transponder from targets of opportunity.

And frankly, sometimes suction cups or velcro just won't cut it on a bike. I've lost one suction-cupped SunPass transponder in the middle of a tropical downpour (don't ask) and always feel leery about leaving transponders unprotected in parking garages and downtown streets.

My solution on the DL1000 was to secure my SunPass transponder with a leftover piece of metal band between the mounting bolts of the Madstad bracket shown below. Very self explanatory, just unbolt the windscreen, cut your metal band to fit, and re-assemble using the regular bolts of your Madstad bracket.

Head-on view:


Right (starboard) bracket:


Left (port) bracket:


Top view:


Normal view standing near the Vee:


The SunPass transponder is still easily visible beneath a clear windscreen, but I plan to replace the factory windscreen with a tinted shorty version soon. Even if you use a clear windscreen, it would still take a dedicated thief 2-3 minutes to remove the windscreen and metal bracket to reach the transponder. You can replace the bracket screws with optional Torx bits for an added bit of security.

Hope this simple mod helps fellow riders who use EZ-Pass or SunPass toll transponders on their Madstad brackets!


You don't need to carry your sunpass, just go through the sunpass lane, they will use your tag# to bill you. I have done it that way for years and never had a single problem.

Or you can use 3M dual lock.... you have to put some effort to get it off, but it is still removable.

Jnich77 screwed with this post 07-23-2013 at 01:45 PM
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:42 AM   #7
superkram OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 136
Corbin seat: The ReButtening

Picked up a used Corbin seat for $200 on Craigslist from a former DL1000 owner. Mounted on the DL1K last night, and WOW!



My butt is comfortable! I never really had issues with the stock seat on long trips with the DL650 or FJR, since I usually rode with padded mountain bike shorts underneath my jeans. However, I could tell right away the Corbin was much more plush while keeping my butt firmly in place. Kind of like experiencing a good Recaro seat for the first time.



Definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Will have to go out and put some miles on the seat soon! Will be tackling paint and a new Werks (realshelby) clutch after this. Am pleased how the DL1K is coming together so far...
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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:15 PM   #8
LexLeroy
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Location: Lexington, KY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superkram View Post
Will be tackling paint and a new Werks (realshelby) clutch after this.
Spend the money on a decent clutch holding tool before you start pulling the clutch apart. Mine cost about $50 plus shipping out of the UK (eBay) but it worked just fine.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:34 AM   #9
danketchpel
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I don't think you will see any change in shifting with the spacer mod.

I noticed an improvement in shifting when I switched to 20w-50 Mobile 1 MC oil. The 10w-40 isn't great for smooth shifting.

Changing the handlebars on the Vee is a must do. I went with ROX risers and Pro Taper ATV mid height 7/8" bars with a crossbar, love the setup, and it got rid of the vibes in the bars.

SS lines and good pads help on the brakes. If you want more front brakes there's an easy 4 piston conversion available, you just have to pick up a set of used calipers.

I went 2+ teeth on the rear sprocket and think it's perfect gearing. I did the upgrade to 530 chain when I rechained. Use the front sprocket from the VL1000 which comes stock with 530. I have a JT rear sprocket.

Getting a good map in the power commander and a good TB sync will work wonders for smoothness and power, but don't expect good mpg. I average ~37 mpg.

My wife & I have ridden 2 up on both the Vee and FJR, my wife likes the Vee better, it has very good passenger seating.

The factory center stand is nice to have.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:49 AM   #10
jules083
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Sounds good, thanks a lot. I might have to pull the trigger on one. Guess I'll take some good fjr pictures and throw it in the flea market, see what happens.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:34 PM   #11
roll_it_on
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At 15K miles I would have the clutch basket redone by Terry Hinkle at http://www.werksparts.com/WERKS_Parts.php My son's DL1000 with 19K miles on was transformed (smoothness) throughout the rpm range by having the clutch basket upgraded. Best mod from an engine standpoint IMO
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:02 AM   #12
superkram OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 136
Question

To roll_it_on: What year was your son's DL1000?

I'm definitely interested in the Werks clutch basket. I thought all 2005+ Vees had the improved clutch basket. Mine definitely doesn't have good low-RPM manners, which surprised me because I'd heard from plenty of Vee owners how easy it was to slowly let the clutch out and let the bike "walk" itself in traffic. Even my DL650 and 1st gen FZ1 had no problem doing that (obviously, the big FJR did this easily too) and neither of them vibrated as much as the Vee does.

How much work is it to remove/install a new clutch basket? Is it recommended to use 20W50 with a Werks basket? Advice appreciated.
__________________
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:25 PM   #13
LexLeroy
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Do:
  • Four piston brakes
  • Fork brace
  • Fork gaiters
  • Eastern Beaver headlight relays
  • Mosfet R/R
  • Decent horns (w/ relay)
  • Seat actually designed for human beings
  • Scrap the stock mirrors for something that cuts the air cleanly
  • Address the windshield buffeting
Take a deep breath and start thinking about optional stuff.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:06 PM   #14
Jamie Z
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexLeroy View Post
Do:
  • Four piston brakes
  • Fork brace
  • Fork gaiters
  • Eastern Beaver headlight relays
  • Mosfet R/R
  • Decent horns (w/ relay)
  • Seat actually designed for human beings
  • Scrap the stock mirrors for something that cuts the air cleanly
  • Address the windshield buffeting
Take a deep breath and start thinking about optional stuff.
Though I haven't done all those things, that's an excellent list. A new owner shouldn't hesitate to do all those things and the bike will be well sorted from the start.

Jamie
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:44 PM   #15
roll_it_on
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superkram View Post
To roll_it_on: What year was your son's DL1000?

I'm definitely interested in the Werks clutch basket. I thought all 2005+ Vees had the improved clutch basket. Mine definitely doesn't have good low-RPM manners, which surprised me because I'd heard from plenty of Vee owners how easy it was to slowly let the clutch out and let the bike "walk" itself in traffic. Even my DL650 and 1st gen FZ1 had no problem doing that (obviously, the big FJR did this easily too) and neither of them vibrated as much as the Vee does.

How much work is it to remove/install a new clutch basket? Is it recommended to use 20W50 with a Werks basket? Advice appreciated.
His is a 2006. In 2003 they did a minor upgrade to the basket and since that they all have the same upgraded part number but it does not fix the issues that create the vibration/chudder. All years have the chudder possibility as they get a few miles on them. Pretty bad design which is fixed with the upgrade. If I bough another Vstrom it is the first thing I would do with it as it makes using the low rpm very nice. As to the work it is not to bad if you are so inclined and have the tools. There are some good step by step write ups on the web with a search but here is one
http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=7089.0

I don't think the oil weight makes much differences just use what is recommended.
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