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Old 10-04-2009, 09:44 AM   #1
squish OP
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Vintage TY transmisson questions

I debated between posting this here or in Old School...

But I figure there's more people here who know then there who would know.

I just picked up my second motorcycle ever, it's been in storage since the mid to late 80's

It's a two stroke and I've spent the last 15+ years immersed in 4-stroke street and dirt bikes.

So the question is
What should I run in the crankcase for oil?
When I drained it last night It smelled and looked to be some kind of thin gear oil,
but the manual calls for engine oil.

Also does this bike normally have a sealing washer on the crankcase drain plug?
Mine doesn't and I'd like to get one if it needs it.


And tips or tricks, anyone has
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:04 AM   #2
buls4evr
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Trials bike 101

OK Bling here you go.... The manual says 30 wgt. motor oil because there were no gear specific oils in the 70s. We use 80-85 gear-clutch oil in the trans...HP Honda, Bel-Ray, Spectro ,Maxima MTL all work great.
In regards to pre-mix you want to remove all of the old oil pump crap and mix in the tank. The ratio u want to use is 50:1 or 2.5 ozs of oil to a gal of mid-grade pump gas. I know your book says more oil.....not correct anymore.
You need to get a set of IRC TR011R Trials Winner tires and fresh tubes. These are radials for competition use. Use 5 lbs. of air per tire.
You need a new air cleaner element. You need footpegs that are wider, at least 1 7/8 in. wide whether you widen them yourself or go to a vendor.
You need a Domino slow turn throttle and all cables should be Motion-Pros so you get full clutch motion and braking. Make sure that steel gas tank is clean as well as petcock and carb.
As far as set-up goes the bars should be very far fwd. Look at the side of the bike and the bars should be 90 deg. to ground level. You want dog-leg levers and they should be set so the ball end is nearly halfway up the grip. They should be rotated so that they are just below horizontal on both sides. This is so they come easily to hand going up or downhill. The clutch should engage as close to the bar as you can get it and still release the plates. This is a good start. Questions? U know where to find me.... Also see bjracing.com for lots of goodies. UR Welcome
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:02 PM   #3
squish OP
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Awsome,
Thanks for the set up tips,

Just to get the bike running I've put in 10-30 M/C oil
in the crankcase but I'll be switching that out soon enough

I got the new airfilter and I'll look about getting the other stuff,

Carb, tank petcock and lines are all cleaned out.

Squish
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:32 PM   #4
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And more stuff

When you have recovered from the first set of expenses then you need to work on the suspension which is a joke on TYs. I like 13.25 in. Betor gas shocks to replace the junk stockers. The stockers are basically just all spring. Speaking of springs you will need better fork springs which generally come from WES in the UK. I run 125 wgt. modern cartridge fork oil in my bikes. While you wait forever for the springs you can temporarily put a piece of steel conduit in each fork spring to take up the slack.
I know this sounds like a lot but yousounded like a guy who might actually want to compete so you want a bike that actually works. Make yourself a list and call Bob Ginder at B&J Racing 615-789-5956...Central time (Dickson,TN). Know that this is $800 to $1000 in parts but they will dramatically transform this bike. This is a cyclesport where you need the bike correct right from the start.This gives you a massive headstart over other novices. Keep us posted.
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Old 10-24-2009, 09:24 PM   #5
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A couple of points.

The "crankcase" you speak of is the gearbox. TY's run a dry crankcase.

Use a fully synthetic gear oil. Mineral oil will cause the clutch to "self adjust" on you when it gets hot, dunno why but it's an old and known problem, easily fixed.

Run new breather hoses for the crankcase/gearbox and carby up the spine of the main frame tube, otherwise a good creek crossing will cause negative pressure (due to rapid cooling) and water gets sucked in to the gearbox - nasty.

While new suspension and all that stuff is nice, you don't need it as a novice, a working bike with set-up for you and smooth controls is sufficient.

When you junk the 2 stroke pump to go premix, don't forget to blank the hole in the carby manifold off.

Enjoy.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:17 PM   #6
squish OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodSilla
A couple of points.

The "crankcase" you speak of is the gearbox. TY's run a dry crankcase.

Use a fully synthetic gear oil. Mineral oil will cause the clutch to "self adjust" on you when it gets hot, dunno why but it's an old and known problem, easily fixed.

Run new breather hoses for the crankcase/gearbox and carby up the spine of the main frame tube, otherwise a good creek crossing will cause negative pressure (due to rapid cooling) and water gets sucked in to the gearbox - nasty.

While new suspension and all that stuff is nice, you don't need it as a novice, a working bike with set-up for you and smooth controls is sufficient.

When you junk the 2 stroke pump to go premix, don't forget to blank the hole in the carby manifold off.

Enjoy.
Thanks for the tips,
Yes you're right about the "crankcase"
I was using more as a term talking about the bottom of the engine.
Not the literal case where the crank is.

It's good to note that I was on the right track with the redoing my breather hoses up the spine of the frame.

I do need to get new suspension sometime in the near future.
As
A I weight around 80lbs more then I did when I was riding this thing before
B the "suspension" was never really that anyway
C the fork seals leak and I'm sure the shocks would to, if they had any oil to leak out. which I don't because there doesn't seem to be a lick of damping in them at all.

But it's going to have to wait until next season.
Right now I'm just trying to work out the bugs in the whole bike.
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:57 AM   #7
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Squish; go back up and read post #4. Betor rear shocks 13.5 in. nitrogens come with a 70/100 spring that covers riders from about 165 to about 220 lbs. Awide range. They are $255 from B&J Racing in TN.

fork springs are supposedto be soft remember. The seals I believe are the same as my KT takes and come from an RD350 road bike. check to see if your forks are 34mm.....they areprobably the same forks that a KT uses and you can readily get great NSK seals from any shop that deals with Parts Unlimited. I like 125-150 cartridge fork oil and WES springs. Revalving is really easiest while you have it apart too. B&J can also revalve those forks so they really work. Ginder knows his stuff on them.

Don't forget the wide footpegs too. Nothing improves control better than those.B&J has them but you can modify them yourself .
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:10 PM   #8
squish OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr
Squish; go back up and read post #4. Betor rear shocks 13.5 in. nitrogens come with a 70/100 spring that covers riders from about 165 to about 220 lbs. Awide range. They are $255 from B&J Racing in TN.

fork springs are supposedto be soft remember. The seals I believe are the same as my KT takes and come from an RD350 road bike. check to see if your forks are 34mm.....they areprobably the same forks that a KT uses and you can readily get great NSK seals from any shop that deals with Parts Unlimited. I like 125-150 cartridge fork oil and WES springs. Revalving is really easiest while you have it apart too. B&J can also revalve those forks so they really work. Ginder knows his stuff on them.

Don't forget the wide footpegs too. Nothing improves control better than those.B&J has them but you can modify them yourself .

I got new seals from B&J, sitting waiting for the intersection of time and inclination. I'm thinking pretty hard about those betor shocks,
I just have to save my nickles. and thanks for the tips on the forks.
I'll prolly have them rebuilt when I go to do the seals
I want to make sure the tubes are in good shape and straight as well.

The foot pegs will be an easy fix. again I just have to look for some that will fit. or just weld on the extensions. I'm floored by how tiny the stock ones are.
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:56 AM   #9
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FORKS and PEGS and OTHER STUFF

Time and Inclination is a very busy intersection for sure.

I would not worry about the sliders at all...just clean those up well in parts cleaner and put in seals.

The bigger issue is the fork tubes. Look at the area where the seal usually rides. That can't have grooving or big scratches otherwise you need new tubes. Most are OK and only need 1500 wet sanding and a good cleaning with hot soap and water. At this point with the damping rods hanging down reach up inside the tube and undo the spring clip. That releases the damping rod which is about 7 in. long. Send the rods to Ginder so he can make them work.

2 things to remember when working on these old forks:
1). Anytime you undo the fork caps the top triple clamp bolts MUST BE LOOSENED first. Otherwise you tear up that nice cap and will ruin the threads on some bikes.
2). Make sure you use the correct size and length of Allen wrench /socket on your air gun when removing the lower holding bolt. Have another party reach over the forks and compress the fork slightly then give it a reverse burst. It should come right out that way. When you put it back in later... watch the torque on that gun! They only need about 17 ft/lb back in. I like to use a fresh bolt each time but you can get by with the old one so long as you are careful.

Nothing on the bike will make as dramatic of a handling difference as widened and slightly lengthened footpegs. All you need is about 2 ft of 1/2 in. tall by 3/16 wide stock made of soft steel, agood welder, a big vice and a 4.5 in. rotary grinder or mini-grinder to finish them and put teeth on them. The longer peg lets you really get your wgt. to that side. Remember not to get any kickstarter interference. While you are at it remove those dangerous pins and cotter pins that hold them on and replace them with bolts w/ lock nuts instead. The fewer cotter pins the better as those sharp edges cut U if you fall on them (I also replace my axle nuts with Stovers or Nylocks same reason).

Feel free to PM me when you have questions.
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