XR650R Thread!

[RideFreak]

Originally Posted by Ridin Dirty

For the woods...besides suspension, I would lower the gearing for the woods. I'd also get very aggressive knobbies and upgrade the cooling system. Either fluidines or ktm fan. The woods I ride have alot of rocks and roots. I want a steering damper to help with the deflections. That would probably help my stamina quite a bit too.

I still take it back there with the Dunlop 606's and the stock gearing but my loops are shorter than I could otherwise do on a lighter bike.

I like to run the 15/48 gearing, I tried 14/48 for awhile but I like the Rs down lower, seems to make the bike less high-strung if you can call it that and it's not uncommon to come across a WFO trail or Arroyo occassionally No matter what gearing you run though, power won't be an issue The BRP can be a handfull on tight single track but in the desert it's perfect.


Local ride near the house.

[pigpen]

Header,
I am not a suspension expert! But I have set up many bikes for different applications. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself find someone local to you that is willing to work w/ you, Not just "I'll do your forks" ! Setting up a bike to your riding ablility and style can and will take some time. Most of the work is fairly easy until you get into revalving. I personaly leave that to the pros. You can do it youself, but I chose not to!
Don't know much you weigh?
1st thing, almost all bikes are set up from the factory w/ spring rates to suit approx. a 175lb. rider. If your 190 or more, respring the pig. Valving is a personal preference. Some like it soft, enduro style. This is my preference, cause I don't ride the bRP on the motorcross track. The first few inches in the stroke are easy, then the valving gets a bit harder to take the bigger hits, like unseen ditches etc. Mine was night and day different when I had mine done. As you prolly know by now, the whale snot Honda puts in the forks from the factory is shite!!!!!!!!!! Put the correct rate spring for your weight and get the old oil (Snot) out. It also has a tendency to rust the internals, some have seen this on new bikes. It works pretty well like that, just cleaning out the old oil and changing springs. Oil weight and height can have a dramatic effect on how the suspension works w/o revalving. Revalving can take that bump, bump, bump out that you will encounter riding cement highway when you hit the strip between sections.Change the rear spring to match you weight also.
Steering damper, is second. My preference is the scott's sub mount, goes under the bars raising them. If you like the woods, cutting the width down on the bars can help w/ avoiding the trees but It is a desert bike 1st.
Like some else said raising the tubes in the triples will help w/ turn in. Try this in small increments Start w/ 2 millimeters. It can affect the stability on high speed stuff, but given the rake, trail, and length of this bike, It's pretty damn stable upwards of the 100mph mark.
I've heard reports of headshake w/ certain tires. I'm running Dunlop 908rr front. The first tire I put on did this at 75mph on the road for about 100-200 miles the went away completey. The second and third, did not headshake at all???? I was not violent or dangerous, just got my attention!!
I roadraced for years, small changes in suspension made dramatic differences. Compression and rebound clickers are fun to change, they are easy to change for dii conditions. Easily done on the trail.Tires are different heights, compounds are different, sidewalls are different, knobs are different. All this together can change aspects of handling!! Keep a log of what changes you make and your impressions. DON'T change everything at once. Ride, adjust, take notes, repeat as needed.
Like someone said before nothing can replace seat time!!!!!!!! Go ride.
Good luck,
Pigpen

[PeteN95]

Originally Posted by header

I have it setup as a nice enduro bike but I was wondering if there is anything I should do to make it better in the woods.

Two best mods are a Rekluse auto clutch and a trials tire. Damper, skid plate, and hand guards are good too.

[header]

Originally Posted by PeteN95

Two best mods are a Rekluse auto clutch and a trials tire. Damper, skid plate, and hand guards are good too.

I remember reading somewhere about the recluse having problems with the torque from the bike. Has anyone ever heard of this, or is it just some rumor?

[Twotrak]

From what I have read guys who desert race the R tend to destroy the Rekluse. I have not read of anyone having any problems who uses them in the woods. I have one on my R and I like it so far but I'm old and don't ride the bike anywhere near it's potential. Due to an ankle injury I haven't been riding much but so far the Rekluse seems like a good addition to the R if you ride tight trails. I have the stock 14/48 gearing and with the Rekluse I stay mostly in second gear and can go from 0 to about 40 mph w/o shifting. And if I get out of shape or even drop the bike the thing usually stays running so kickstarting from odd positions happens less. And since it's a kickstart bike I don't worry much about not being able to bump start.