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Old 07-09-2010, 07:55 AM   #1831
SilverBullet
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Location: Harmaston, TX
Oddometer: 402
Quote:
Originally Posted by fysio_man
Sorry guys I did mean the countersprocket guard, anyways, there has been a minor (cough, cough) setback in my sprocket situation. I should have just waited, but no, phoned my mechanic brother, he said take it off put the old one back on, see if it rubs. Okay, no problem, go to take one of the bolts off that attaches to the sprocket, SNAP!! I won't repeat my words here, but I was letting fly, poor neighbours. That put a stop to that, parked the old girl, going to have to get some new bolts, see what else is out there (any suggestions??), hopefully get the bolt out of the brand new sprocket and try again tomorrow. Again, if there is anything that you can think I was doing wrong, the feedback is appreciated. Thanks.
I agree with your brother. It should not rub the cover so something wasn't installed correctly. Removing or cutting the cover only is not the solution. After you have it back installed correctly without rubbing then you can remove the cover as some suggest. Maybe the bolt that broke was crossthreaded and not fully seated.
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:22 AM   #1832
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Why would anybody ever want a bigger front sprocket on a DR anyway?

The stock one is too big to begin with!
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:18 PM   #1833
puntoMX
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Cool2

Today I'm putting on my KLR650 2008-2010 rear-shock, I never found anyone on the net
who did this before so it could be that it hits the air-filter box and the yoke down on the
rear-bridge. So, let's get started!

Before I started I thought to check how much space there was around the yoke:


From the top


From the bottom


There isn’t much space…

Lifting the bike on some milk-crate and some wood... 5cm clearance for the rear wheel...
Good.

First I had to remove the two side fenders and the seat, followed by removing also the battery.
Then I have to loosen the battery holder for some extra millimeters of play. After that, the
air-box can be moved some 2cm backwards, sure I need to detach the air-box from the
carburetor and the 3x M6*16mm. Now, finally I can remove the bolt and nut from the upper
part of the shock; at Suzuki they could have made the air-box just a bit smaller so you
would NOT have to do all the darn steps I described before.

Now, I just have to remove all the bolts and nuts from the down section and the yoke. While
I'm removing all, I inspect all the bearings; all seem to be fine. Shock comes out smooth and
o man it's a mess. Cleaning all up and applying new "super-grease", the yellow/orange
one, in every hole and bearing. there is a lot of empty space between the 2 needle bearings
so I'm filling that up as well.

Now, let's compare those shocks:



The KLR shock is about 18mm longer but I would not see why that would be a problem.
So, let's continue greasing the fresh made bushings in and see if the shock fits with the
upper part.

The bushings came in yesterday and they fitted perfectly:


Lower part, bushing from 15 to 10mm, and 3mm spacer, one on each side


Bushing placed


upper part, bushing from 12.1 to 10mm, and 4mm spacer, one on each side


Bushing placed

So, I´m placing the bushing in and see if it lines up in the upper section... well... it does not.
Bushing are perfect but something is hitting the frame... darn. Upon inspection, I see
that the KLR650 shock isn't as rounded as the DR650 shock so... I need a bench-grinder...
I don't have one so let's go to the shop to get one with some clamps to set it on my office desk
(I don't have a workshop like most of you guys ). There, got one, will be handy in the
future any way, now, let's start grinding that sucker.

This is what needs to be done:


Red part will be gone

Now, 20 minutes later I'm done, even a better job than Kawazaki did I would say :


Finish with 320 grid paper





Now, let's put that sucker in!


Snug as if it was made for it!

I thought I needed to mod that air-box but all fitted well, as you can see, the spring
adjuster bolt I kept on the left side and not on the right side as it would be originally placed
on a KLR650. Now the down section:



Nice, compared with this:



The seat height went up by 2.5-3cm and even some 5cm at the back:



And one shot from behind the bike:



Now, the test drive! When sitting on it it feels smooth, way less bumpy for sure as the other
shock had no oil in it any more. It feels a bit too plush almost but I'll be adjusting it little by
little till I find the right setting for my type of riding style.

I hope that this could help fellow inmates here to have an alternative when their shock goes
AWOL. I paid in total, shock, shipping (43USD from the USA to Mexico), bushings and some
small parts, a total of 200USD.

EDIT:
Quote:
Originally Posted by puntoMX View Post
Part II on the KLR650 shock:



I just did it with a handdrill, starting will a small 1mm drill, followed by a 4mm drill, 7mm drill,
and finally a 9.9mm drill, I got it 0.5mm on the left side so I had to do it the same on the
other side, most won't even see it.



This is how it looks now, I could have cut the lower parts off but it doesn't border me to
have those holes there.



This is how the bikes looks now, the highest point at the back is now 101cm and seat height
at the lowest point is 87cm. Shock is now set at 3 for pre-load and the max for rebound,
I don't know what the KLR guys are complaining about but when that shock is lubricated and
NOT under load, it's easy to set the pre-load to a higher level (Design fault my ).
I also lowered the front by 12mm and see how that goes. I'm pooped, it's 01:26 AM .

Will post back tomorrow... well, later today.
EDIT II:

Preload is set at "4", after using the setup for some time I can see that the rear shock does touch a little bit the airbox, but it's not damaging anything. I'm still happy as a kid (wait, I'm still a kid ) with it...
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[Mods to do] Luggage system w/ Pelican 1520 (Thanks to inmate 685), or softbags
[Mods in the make] Tool tube with tools
[Mods done] 1 1/8" handlebar - KLR650 Shock on DR650s - ZX-10R directionals on DR650s - RMZ450 muffler on DR650s - Acerbis Mollsoft taillight - Trailtech Vapor – Twin Air - Metzeler Tourance - Tusk sealsavers - more to come

puntoMX screwed with this post 01-19-2011 at 11:42 AM
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:05 PM   #1834
fysio_man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet
I agree with your brother. It should not rub the cover so something wasn't installed correctly. Removing or cutting the cover only is not the solution. After you have it back installed correctly without rubbing then you can remove the cover as some suggest. Maybe the bolt that broke was crossthreaded and not fully seated.
Simple correction, got the new 16t on, bumped up my cruising speed to 110km/hr will work out better for me for my commute to work. It will be very easy to swap back to the old sprocket once I start doing more off road riding (which won't be until next year).
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:48 AM   #1835
685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fysio_man
Simple correction, got the new 16t on, bumped up my cruising speed to 110km/hr will work out better for me for my commute to work. It will be very easy to swap back to the old sprocket once I start doing more off road riding (which won't be until next year).
Once you get the routine down, you'll be able to have sprockets to suit your days needs. 14 teeth for when you want to be able to wheelie over snow banks () 15 teeth for racing between stop lights, 16 for getting out on the superslab. I think you could reasonably expect to be able to change out the front sprocket (and adjust the chain) in 20 minutes or so.
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:58 AM   #1836
685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puntoMX
Today I'm putting on my KLR650 2008-2010 rear-shock, I never found any one on the net
who did this before so it could be that it hits the air-filter box and the yoke down on the
rear-bridge. So, let's get started!

SNIP!

Now, the test drive! When sitting on it it feels smooth, way less bumpy for sure as he other
shock had no oil in it any more. It feels a bit too plush almost but I'll be adjusting it little by
little till I find the right setting for my type of riding style.

I hope that this could help fellow inmates here to have an alternative when their shock goes
a-wall. I paid in total, shock, shipping (43USD from the USA to Mexico), bushings and some
small parts, a total of 200USD.
Too plush? Is that possible?

The soft shock helps make the ride of the generation 2 KLRs really comfy out on the highway and around town. For serious off road one sets the damping to the highest setting and the spring preload to at least the middle setting. Mine is on the leastest settings, and on the bumpies, it tends to bottom out (part of that problem is my big fat ass, tho.)

There should be a pretty good supply of lo mile used shocks--while the KLRistas like to think they're cheap, they tend to replace these with shocks from Progressive or Cogent Dynamics (Moab.) Which brings the thought, for those with fat wallets and don't know where to spend all their spare bucks, you could put a Moab shock on your DR--they really are very good I hear. And at about $600 are certainly affordable for a $1500 motorcycle.

Anyhow, nice write up, where'd you get those bushings? And for what you want (2 up touring in Mex.) the shock will be much more than adequate.
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:00 AM   #1837
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Oh, btw:

GO NETHERLANDS!


(My ancestors were Dutch, too.)
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:45 AM   #1838
fysio_man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 685
Oh, btw:

GO NETHERLANDS!


(My ancestors were Dutch, too.)
+1!!!!!!!!
I went to university in Holland, Gio van Bronkhorst and Nigel de Jong were patients of mine for a while!

I now have all three different sprockets, and I have so much practice changing them, I have it down to 10min. tops.
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Old 07-11-2010, 01:52 PM   #1839
puntoMX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 685
The soft shock helps make the ride of the generation 2 KLRs really comfy out on the highway and around town. For serious off road one sets the damping to the highest setting and the spring preload to at least the middle setting. Mine is on the leastest settings, and on the bumpies, it tends to bottom out (part of that problem is my big fat ass, tho.)
For serous offroad I would get a much lighter bike, something in the 140kg/308lbs with a full tank, this bike is just a travel bike. This morning I tried if I could bottom it out but I could not, plus the font suspension bottoms out way earlier. Now, I still have to test the bike with some extra weight on it (or female passenger ). It's a huge improvement over the old shock, even before that shock was leaking oil. And about the big fat ass; I'm working on my weight, 80kg/176lbs at the moment and still a few kilos to go. I can imagine that a 100kg/220lbs rider would have it set at 3 of 5 and not like me at 1 of 5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 685
There should be a pretty good supply of lo mile used shocks--while the KLRistas like to think they're cheap, they tend to replace these with shocks from Progressive or Cogent Dynamics (Moab.) Which brings the thought, for those with fat wallets and don't know where to spend all their spare bucks, you could put a Moab shock on your DR--they really are very good I hear. And at about $600 are certainly affordable for a $1500 motorcycle.
Now I must say that I almost bought a used Progressive, but the bidding went up to almost 200USD I believe, that was the older model that can be bought for some 350USD or even less new. Now, they also say that an aftermarket shock is lighter, but I wonder how much lighter you can make it; steel can be replaced with alu for the casing but that all you can win with it. I used to drive mountainbikes and o man where people ripped off by getting a 20 gram lighter part. I didn't weight the KLR shock but I'm sure it's not over 4kg/8.8lbs. Sure the shock looks heavier with the thin galvanized top part and plastic cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 685
Anyhow, nice write up, where'd you get those bushings? And for what you want (2 up touring in Mex.) the shock will be much more than adequate.
Those bushing were made in a local workshop and they charged me 150 pesos, say 12USD for it . It seems that this shock will do for my needs, if anything needs to get improved on suspension I'll better get a different front system.

Now, there is a downside of a longer shock; The chain slides more over the upper chain-guide so that must be replaced more often (say it needs to be replaced 20% earlier). The second thing I found out is the lower roller; it's noisy when you brake on the engine and the chain pushes harder on it. Now I must say that those stock rollers are basically crap, no ball-bearing in them and way to hard for my liking, so, the lower one will be replaced by some racing roller soon!

While the back came up some 5cm over the stock shock, I also needed to adjust the headlight height AND the chain-slack. I'll be replacing the stock rear light soon with the DR250 light as I tent to kick it when jumping on my bike. I'm just 1.74m tall on a good day with an inseam of 76cm, seatheight is now 96cm , that's where still the rear light is; takes me a karate kick to jump on the bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 685
Oh, btw:

GO NETHERLANDS!


(My ancestors were Dutch, too.)
0-0 Still at 69 minutes! Not that I care much about soccer. Seems it will be penalties!
__________________
Suzuki DR650 '92
[Mods to do] Luggage system w/ Pelican 1520 (Thanks to inmate 685), or softbags
[Mods in the make] Tool tube with tools
[Mods done] 1 1/8" handlebar - KLR650 Shock on DR650s - ZX-10R directionals on DR650s - RMZ450 muffler on DR650s - Acerbis Mollsoft taillight - Trailtech Vapor – Twin Air - Metzeler Tourance - Tusk sealsavers - more to come

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Old 07-11-2010, 03:58 PM   #1840
Bnd1t02
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klr rear shock?

Hey PMX?

quick question. You said that the height difference of of the two shocks was
18mm. If the over all heighth is possibly causing other wear issues, I was wondering if you thought about putting a new lower bolt hole on the lower part of the shock where your picture shows the
new bushing.




By the photos, it looks as though there is enough material to do so and by doing so you would be able to make the hole the proper bolt size for the DR.? This would eliminate the bushings and you would just need spacers.? I like your idea and execution and am interested in how it will perform for you. My stock shock is wasted and I am going to need to upgrade. When I am riding it looks like a dualsport lowrider. I am going to see if I can adjust it enough to get me off the ground for alittle while.

Jeremy

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Old 07-12-2010, 12:45 PM   #1841
puntoMX
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Location: Santiago de Querétaro, Mexico
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Cool2 Re: klr rear shock?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bnd1t02
By the photos, it looks as though there is enough material to do so and by doing so you would be able to make the hole the proper bolt size for the DR.? This would eliminate the bushings and you would just need spacers.? I like your idea and execution and am interested in how it will perform for you. My stock shock is wasted and I am going to need to upgrade. When I am riding it looks like a dualsport lowrider. I am going to see if I can adjust it enough to get me off the ground for alittle while.
Hello Jeremy, yes it is possible and this is what I'm going to do:


This is just a quick and dirty drawing, the gray part is the current assembly

Now, from hearth to hearth (center to center), it will be 20.5mm; drill a hole of 10mm on both sides but they need to be exactly and straight. Now there is no need for bushings on the down part as the "legs" are spaced 30mm from each other, but you will need a 3mm longer bolt (could be that the old one fits without any problems). I'll be doing this in the next week or so, no way I'm going to do this with just a hand-drill so I need to take it to a workshop (a friend of mine has one ). I can live with a 2.5mm shorter shock.


Upper Bushing

You see in the drawing it's 13.97mm long but that's 14mm, the 6mm radius is more like 6.5mm but that could be a tight fit.


I use a KLR650 2008-2010 shock, I believe that the older KLR650 shocks are a bit longer but can't confirm that. I used bushings as future changes to an after-market KLR shock would be easier. I paid 140USD at eBay (plus shipping), mine has some 8500 miles on it they say but it is in a mint condition. After-market shocks can be found as low as 350USD but I couldn't find anything for the older DR.

Replace your shock as soon as you can, corners are such a challenge with no oil in the shock as the tire would bounce and skip all over the place.

-Ronald-
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Suzuki DR650 '92
[Mods to do] Luggage system w/ Pelican 1520 (Thanks to inmate 685), or softbags
[Mods in the make] Tool tube with tools
[Mods done] 1 1/8" handlebar - KLR650 Shock on DR650s - ZX-10R directionals on DR650s - RMZ450 muffler on DR650s - Acerbis Mollsoft taillight - Trailtech Vapor – Twin Air - Metzeler Tourance - Tusk sealsavers - more to come

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Old 07-12-2010, 02:54 PM   #1842
Bnd1t02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puntoMX
Hello Jeremy, yes it is possible and this is what I'm going to do:


This is just a quick and dirty drawing, the gray part is the current assembly

Now, from hearth to hearth (center to center), it will be 20.5mm; drill a hole of 10mm on both sides but they need to be exactly and straight. Now there is no need for bushings on the down part as the "legs" are spaced 30mm from each other, but you will need a 3mm longer bolt (could be that the old one fits without any problems). I'll be doing this in the next week or so, no way I'm going to do this with just a hand-drill so I need to take it to a workshop (a friend of mine has one ). I can live with a 2.5mm shorter shock.


Upper Bushing

You see in the drawing it's 13.97mm long but that's 14mm, the 6mm radius is more like 6.5mm but that could be a tight fit.


I use a KLR650 2008-2010 shock, I believe that the older KLR650 shocks are a bit longer but can't confirm that. I used bushings as future changes to an after-market KLR shock would be easier. I paid 140USD at eBay (plus shipping), mine has some 8500 miles on it they say but it is in a mint condition. After-market shocks can be found as low as 350USD but I couldn't find anything for the older DR.

Replace your shock as soon as you can, corners are such a challenge with no oil in the shock as the tire would bounce and skip all over the place.

-Ronald-

Geez, even your quick and dirty is clean and pretty. Skillz. Mad Skillz. I could print these and run them down the street and the machine shop would impressed. Awsome work. Keep us posted on the the ride caracteristics and what kinda weight you put on her and what kinda sag you get with the weight.

Jeremy
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:07 AM   #1843
Bnd1t02
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Front Wheel?

Hey Ronald,

In your pics your bike kinda looked like you had a smaller than stock front wheel? Is that right, or ya just runnin a more street friendly tire? Looks like you have a 18" (sportsman class sumo) although it could jsut be the angle.

Just curious.

Jeremy
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:33 PM   #1844
puntoMX
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Stock wheel

Hello jeremy, it's just the stock rim and a 90/90 - 21 M/C 54S Metzeler Tourance, rear is a 130/80 - 17 M/C 65S. They are cheap here, say 150USD for the pair, made in Brazil where most tires are coming from today (or from China). They do a great job on the pavement, best tire I ever have used, but... the sidewalls are a bit soft compared with the knobby ones. Here, off-road is mostly stone/rocks and compacted dry dirt, so, knobbies won't do any good for me.

I'm still testing the KLR shock and I'm going to modify indeed the shock so the bike will be lower. Darn DR rollers are noisy so, I'll change those any way for ball-bearing ones. Control of the bike is so much better than before, yes, even before the old shock was leaking. It's worth it I would say, no need for an 400USD after-market shock.
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Suzuki DR650 '92
[Mods to do] Luggage system w/ Pelican 1520 (Thanks to inmate 685), or softbags
[Mods in the make] Tool tube with tools
[Mods done] 1 1/8" handlebar - KLR650 Shock on DR650s - ZX-10R directionals on DR650s - RMZ450 muffler on DR650s - Acerbis Mollsoft taillight - Trailtech Vapor – Twin Air - Metzeler Tourance - Tusk sealsavers - more to come
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:56 PM   #1845
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fits '91? (Says 96-08...)
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