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Old 07-16-2010, 12:31 PM   #5206
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,030
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raging Redneck410
I would like to make my 1992 DR350 black without painting the plastic. does anyone know of any aftermarket plastics that fit the bike [IMG]images/icons/icon5.gif[/IMG]
Aftermarket tanks (larger) should be available from Acerbis, Clarke, IMS.

Front Fender can easily come from a 2001 - 2008 Suzuki RM125/RM250 (holes are already predrilled for a bolt on install).

A popular rear fender is this unit that Jesse sells:
http://www.kientech.com/MaierMXrearfender.htm

Don't know about side covers???

If you want some black fork boots (gaiters), let me know. I've got a pair in as new condition I'd sell you.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-16-2010, 01:22 PM   #5207
yondering
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Location: NW Wa. state
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
I think if it were me I'd put the jetting to your good at 3k' setting and then run higher octane fuel or just a touch of octane booster if you are already using the best they've got at the pump in your area. Also, make sure your plug, cap, wire and coil are in good shape - a weak spark can make jetting much more sensitive I've found, especially on the loading up issue. I've also read that some folks have found an improvement after replacing the resistor in the plug cap (take the cap off the plug then use a small flat bladed screwdriver to unscrew the brass bit you'll see when you look up where the plug goes, under that brass bit there's a funny little resistor) with a bit of wire. I just did my 250 and didn't notice a difference, but its worth a shot, you can always put the resistor back in if you want. I'd probably slide an iridium plug in there for good measure too as if you end up way rich the seem to tolerate it better than most - it'll be the same pt# you usually use but with an "EIX" after the heat range number IIRC.
Thanks for the tips, although I've already done the above, with the exception of the Iridium plug. I run premium pump gas, and have removed the spark plug cap resistor. Spark is still kinda weak, but from reading other posts here and on max suzuki, it sounds like that's just the way they are.

Oddly enough, the low-mid throttle seems fine with the altitude changes, at least from 0-5000 feet; it's just the 3/4-full throttle position that is sensitive.
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Old 07-16-2010, 01:51 PM   #5208
TexasShadow
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Location: Terlingua, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender
Front Fender can easily come from a 2001 - 2008 Suzuki RM125/RM250 (holes are already predrilled for a bolt on install).
Most aftermarket motocross/motard front fenders fit the DR. Will need to drill two holes, but that's easy enough. I like the smaller beak on my DR; it doesn't wave in the air anymore. ;)
Also better air flow to the engine.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:21 PM   #5209
oremike
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I got my project 99 DR 350 all done today except I still have to sort out the turn signals, they are there and work temperamentally so close enough for a ride. Went 10 miles with a couple miles of pot holed gravel thrown in. The bike runs right up to 70 mph and then runs out of beans, and has no problem lofting the front wheel off the line. Paid 500 for the bike then put about a grand in it so I think I'm in it right!

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Old 07-16-2010, 09:24 PM   #5210
oremike
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If you ride in mud you'll want the motocross front fender, with the super moto fender the front tire throws mud up in the air and you ride right into it.
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:27 AM   #5211
01roundcat
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Location: Ipswich Australia
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Choke problem?

Good afternoon all, I have a '96 dr 350 e with the pumper carb. It is only used every 6 weeks or so for trailriding and I have been having trouble getting it warmed up. I use the choke to start it and it will idle at a constant rev but once it is warm I will turn off the choke and it will surge or it will accelerate by itself. I take it for a ride with the choke on which means its slow and not responsive and turn the choke off and it makes no difference but all of a sudden after and inconsistant time ( up to 15 minutes) span it will clear itself and run fine and for the rest of the day it will start ok. I have tried draining the carb, draining the tank and dismantling and cleaning the carb. I didn't dismantle the choke part of it because i am not familiar with the non butterfly style choke but i guess that is my next step. How is the choke dismantled and do i need to get a kit for it?
Thank, Andrew
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Old 07-17-2010, 04:55 AM   #5212
SprintSix
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Roundcat, check for air leaks around the intake flange/boot. Mist water in that area while idling. If the rpms drop, you have a leak. Most likely the O ring behind the flange.
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Old 07-17-2010, 07:54 AM   #5213
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman
For some reason dairyland wouldn't accept me , maybe cause ima young driver with no expieeience. Ended up going with pacific specialty insurance company for a pretty good price, little less than dairyland actually, 223/year . I'm satisfied
Boy, I only pay $4 more per year for State Farm. Perhaps that's because I'm an old fart and have both cars, the scooter and the house insured with them as well. You got a good deal (IMHO).
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:00 AM   #5214
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering
Thanks for the tips, although I've already done the above, with the exception of the Iridium plug. I run premium pump gas, and have removed the spark plug cap resistor. Spark is still kinda weak, but from reading other posts here and on max suzuki, it sounds like that's just the way they are.

Oddly enough, the low-mid throttle seems fine with the altitude changes, at least from 0-5000 feet; it's just the 3/4-full throttle position that is sensitive.
I've been following along here and think you're asking a little much of your carb to be able to go from zero to 5K feet without noticing a difference in performance. After doing a bunch of research and discussing the issue with a few inmates over @ MaxZuki, I am prepared to change main jets for every 2-2500' of elevation gained/lost and a change of pilot jet for every 5K' gained/lost. Those guidelines were proven during my Trans-Am Trail ride (two years ago) when I traversed OK, NM and about half of CO. YMMV.
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:35 AM   #5215
Country Doc
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My pumper carb (TM33 Jesse's kit) is definitely more sensitive to altitude changes than the old jetted CV carb. I notice an obvious performance drop and rich condition over 4k feet (it's jetted for sea level). However it's probably a little rich even at sea level, will try moving down a size on the main jet next trip out to California, as the sensitivity I notice is always from 3/4 to full throttle, as mentioned by the previous poster.

dc
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Old 07-17-2010, 09:21 AM   #5216
rubberband
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Location: Michigan
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First post, long time lurker. But it's official I just picked up a 1997 DR350SE with 3500miles for $1300.00. It has a big hole in the top of the airbox, I still need to verify jetting. Also has a Supertrapp slip on, Renthal bars, Kuoba link #1 rear dogbones. The previous owner was not much of a Lakers fan, I got a box full of OE parts...all purple, and yellow.

After some quick maint> lubed whats left of the chain, bled brakes, cleaned airbox and filter, lubed cables, tire pressure, etc. Overall I'm ready to head out exploring. Insurance and a plate on Monday.....maybe a quick blast down some backroads wouldn't hurt. I'm kinda excited...always nice to have another bike in the stable.

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Old 07-17-2010, 11:35 AM   #5217
BikePilot
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Nice! It may also have upgraded suspension springs if the stickers don't lie :)

Bronco and Yondering, to keep it optimal jetting changes are definitely need at least every 2k feet, but that doesn't mean it should be as extreme as described.

In Colorado I'll go from 6k' to 13k' in an hour or two all in one ride. I keep my CR out there and haven't had the DR there, but I jet it so its about perfect at 8k feet and its really rideable from 6-13k'. just a tad surgey/lean at 6k and a bit blubbery at 13k, but really quite respectable all around. The guy I ride with out there is on a DRZ400 and his bike seems even less affected than my CR (which, being a two stroke with aggressive porting and a big carb ought to be pretty sensitive to jetting changes).

My guess, and its just a guess is that Yondering's bike requires rather rich jetting on the top end to prevent pinging so there's not much wiggle room to go a little leaner (pings) or richer ('cause its already extra-rich to prevent pinging). To test the theory try a tank of race gas or a healthy dose of octane booster and see if the pinging goes away with the leanish jetting at sea level :)
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BikePilot screwed with this post 07-17-2010 at 11:42 AM
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Old 07-17-2010, 05:43 PM   #5218
rubberband
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Yup, Eibach rear spring. I need to dig into the forks to see if anything has been done. Also the Renthals are bent....so new bars are on the way. I have put like 25miles on the bike...without a plate....god this bike is gonna get me in trouble.......flat tracking corners, jumping stumps....I can't stop laughing

I have looked around, but can anyone recomend a start point for jetting 140 main? slip on supertrap and 3X3 hole in the top of the airbox. Thanks
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Old 07-17-2010, 10:15 PM   #5219
Wylie
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Location: Shoshone, Idaho
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I just bought a TM 33 rebuild kit, 140, 142.5 MJ as well as a 37.5 and 40 pilot jets from PJ Motorsports. I've rehashed a Remus Dual system for a KTM 640 to fit my 94 DR 350 R so with the larger diameter piping I figured a 142.5 main jet may come in to play.

My experience with PJ was very accommodating, excellent correspondence, swift replies to emails as well a phone call they made to me to clarify a mistake I made.

I figure they deserve a plug. http://www.pjmotorsports.com/mikuni-jets.html

I have the TM 33 carb so the main jets were N100. 604 type jets and the pilots were VM28/486s

Damn you make these bike sound fun! I can't wait to get mine running!
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Old 07-18-2010, 11:44 AM   #5220
woolsac
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Question Carb Trouble?

Hey everyone. I have a quick question on an issue that just came up. I have read this forum from the beginning and never had any issues until the other night. I am currently running stock jetting, cv carb, exhaust, airbox. I previously had an issue with RPMs raising and lowing when I just let the bike idle. I thought it was an air leak but performed the carb cleaner spray check on the system and the engine never dropped RPMs. So, I checked my float height when I had the carb apart for cleaning and it all looked straight. However, when i put it back on the bike, i would do a fuel level check by using a small tube on the carb bowl drain and measured the fuel level that way. I have read in previous posts that the fuel should be very close to the seam of where the fuel bowl sits on the carb body. this was not the case, it was higher by what i gathered to be a significant amount. I took the bowl off and on while adjusted the tang on the float until the level was close to the seam. then i started her up.

I went out for a ride and it road like a dream. I adjusted the pilot screw about 3.25 turns out. it idled around 1200-1500. I road it around for about 25 minutes no problem at all until it started to backfire as i was kinda engine breaking on a downhill. took me by surprise, but i kept riding for i had to get back home. still the same problem, backfiring. at one point, i pulled in the clutch so i could just neutral cruise down a hill and the bike stalled. I then tried kickstarting her without avail until i pulled the choke 1/2 way out and hte bike started with no problem...

i continued my ride with putting the choke back in and still backfiring and another stall when i pulled the clutch in. Again, i had to kickstart with the choke 1/2 out and started right up with no problem. so i kept the choke pulled 1/2 the whole way home and hte bike would not stall but would have a hanging high RPM, which is expected with the choke pulled out with a hot bike.

so my question is what happened? what was causing the back firing? too rich? do i have my pilot out enough? do i maybe have a clogged air bleed in the carb? any help would much appreciated.... also, should i go back to my original float setting or should i maintain the height that i acheived with the manual leveling? Just wanted some advise before taking the carb apart again.

Thanks for the help!
Mark
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