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Old 08-27-2010, 07:20 PM   #16
KShow
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I took the no relay route, #15 pin cut and cap the wire from the harness side, splice a wire from the pin to the blue output wire on the alternator, quick, simple, and has worked flawlessly for almost a year now.

Heres a question though, now that Ive done that mod, I havent been able to disable my ABS using the normal routine. Havent played with it much (at all) but is there a combination that still works to cancel the ABS? Thought about wiring in a switch so I can turn it on and off on the fly, but havent got around to it yet.
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Old 08-28-2010, 04:08 PM   #17
Poolside
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The 'no relay' method holds pin 15 on the ABS controller to ground until the alternator output becomes active. That is the only difference the ABS controller 'sees'. I don't remember the ABS button not working.

Here's something. Are you holding down the button until the alternator comes online? Because with the rewiring, the ABS isn't 'on' until the alternator is active. Before the rewiring, the ABS is active as soon as the ignition key is switched on.


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Poolside screwed with this post 12-25-2012 at 12:30 AM Reason: Clarity
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Old 08-29-2010, 11:53 PM   #18
switch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KShow
I took the no relay route, #15 pin cut and cap the wire from the harness side, splice a wire from the pin to the blue output wire on the alternator, quick, simple, and has worked flawlessly for almost a year now.

Heres a question though, now that Ive done that mod, I havent been able to disable my ABS using the normal routine. Havent played with it much (at all) but is there a combination that still works to cancel the ABS? Thought about wiring in a switch so I can turn it on and off on the fly, but havent got around to it yet.
Sounds easier than splicing an entire harness.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:42 AM   #19
switch
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After a lot of research and poking over the various corners of my 1100gs, I modded my ABS power system.

I chose a mixed path:
- find the harness splice indicated by the Holland modder
- locate the harness wire going to the ABS connector pin #15
- connect that single wire to the blue alternator wire (using similar gauge wiring - less than 3 inches of wire)
- reconnect everything back the way it was

A quick test indicates that everything is fine: ABS starts up nicely, with the self-test done after the battery warning light goes off (i.e. alternator running smooth). Even 5 starts in a row worked. Quick tested down the alley and both ABSs engage normally.


I'm off to test it.



I was too frustrated after half an hour juggling the ABS connector loose to take any pictures, but I'll happily post a log using the existing pictures in the three tutorials I've seen.
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:34 PM   #20
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Good deal!


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Old 09-02-2010, 02:51 AM   #21
switch
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Allright, I've done about a hundred miles with my the modded ABS and I dare say it worked flawlessly.


Here's what I did (on a BMW R1100GS, prod yr 1997):
1. Remove seats, fairing (GS only has like one piece) and fuel tank
Tip: If you have a tall chair available, put it on the right side of the bike, next to the rider footpeg. You can rest the tank on the chair to avoid having to disconnect the fuel lines. Be extra careful in securing the tank!
2. Disconnect battery terminals -- for the sake of the bike's electronics

3. Locate and disconnect the ABS connector: it's a large connector going into the the left side of the ABS unit just in front of the battery
TIP: the connector is held in place by a latch on the bottom end. A flat screwdriver can be used to release the connector's bottom clamp. Hard to explain, even I don't get it after doing it twice. Bottom line is that you don't need to undo anything else, just push the clamp out of the way and unplug the bottom end of the connector. Top end just wiggles out.

4. Locate and pull out the wiring harness splice point #15: it's behind the alternator, left side.
TIP: The splice point is likely hidden behind the rest of the harness when you look at the bike from the left side. Here's some pics, courtesy of a guy that did a similar mod on his R1100:

5. Remove the insulation and find the large bundle of 9 green wires. Cut the crimping and isolate each of the wires





6. Locate pin #15 on the ABS connector
TIP: When looking at the abs connector pins with the wires coming out the bottom, pin #15 is on the right row, second pin from the bottom up



7. Determine which of the 9 wires from the bundle connects to pin #15 on the ABS connector
TIP: Only one of the 9 green wires in the bundle connects to pin #15. It's one of the THIN wires. MARK IT.

TIP: After identifying the wire, mark it (did you mark it yet?) and reconnect the ABS connector -- you're done with it.
8. Bundle the 8 wires not connected to pin #15 and solder them back together. Take extra care to make sure they are ALL soldered together properly.

9. Solder the wire going to pin 15 to your 5-inch piece of wire; isolate all solder points, check integrity then run your wire out of the bundle and tape the bundle back together
TIP: Don't push the bundle back in yet!

TIP: In the picture, the wire is brown (indicated by the RED arrow), despite the fact that it's not a BMW standard ground wire.

TIP: The BLUE arrow indicated the wire coming from the alternator's D+ connector.


10. On the rear-left side of the alternator, locate and remove the D+ connector with the BLUE wire
TIP: In the picture above, the blue wire is indicated by the BLUE arrow.

11. Splice into the blue wire and solder the other end of the 5 inch wire you connected into the bundle (step 9). Carefully isolate everything after soldering.
TIP: At this point, the electrical diagram for the ABS has been modified to:

12. Test everything (you DID re-connect the ABS connector and alternator D+ terminal, right?). If it appears ok, isolate everything nice and tight, and reassemble the bike. Prepare for a test-ride.
TIP: The ABS lights will behave differently during startup! This is expected and suggests you did things right.

That's it. Test ride and slam the brakes to check for abs functionality.

Now, during start-up, the ABS lights work differently:
- when you turn the ignition, the top ABS light comes on solid
- during tick-over, I *think* the top ABS light goes out -- didn't pay attention, sorry
- after the engine starts and the battery light goes out, both ABS light blink in unison (indicating the ABS is initialized).

That's the only difference. Note that disabling the ABS requires you to keep the ABS button down until the engine starts AND the battery light goes out.


EDIT (one year later): I've done about 7k miles with this ABS mod. No issues, never had the ABS fault.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:08 AM   #22
usmanet
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The instruction is it for R1100GS or R1150GS !!
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:23 AM   #23
switch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmanet
The instruction is it for R1100GS or R1150GS !!
It was done on a '97 R1100GS BMW. Remembering a 1150 I saw a while ago, I'd dare say it's the same thing.
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Old 09-02-2010, 02:22 PM   #24
Poolside
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmanet
The instruction is it for R1100GS or R1150GS !!
The ABS power bypass works for both the 1100 and 1150.


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Old 09-02-2010, 09:31 PM   #25
usmanet
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Hi Switch,

For point 10 on your instruction i can't find the BLUE wire that located at rear-left side of the alternator and the D+ connector. Can you take the picture of the D+ connector and the rear-left side of the alternator wire.

Many Thanks for the help.. Cheers
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:39 AM   #26
switch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmanet
Hi Switch,

For point 10 on your instruction i can't find the BLUE wire that located at rear-left side of the alternator and the D+ connector. Can you take the picture of the D+ connector and the rear-left side of the alternator wire.

Many Thanks for the help.. Cheers
I spend 15 minutes on that one. There's three wires coming out of the alternator: two THICK ones (bundled up) and a thin one. Sadly, with the bike assembled I can't take a picture of the alternator.

Imagine looking at the alternator from behind. You'll see a pair of thick red wires coming out at approx 11 o'clock and a single, thin blue (might be very dirty blue!) wire coming out at about 10 o'clock. It's a bit hidden, about where the wiring harness splice point (see first picture in my previous post) is tucked in behind the rest of the harness.

Basically the D+ is a single black terminal with a short blue wire that is connected to the rear-left side of the alternator, some half-an-inch below the two thick red wires. If you can't find it, simply feel for it on the rear left side of the alternator.

If you DO find it, we'd all appreciate a picture.


EDIT: Whoa, one of the pictures previously posted shows the blue wire. I've updated the pic and tutorial (check out the blue arrow):
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:42 AM   #27
usmanet
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Hi Switch,

Just wonder whether after the ABS Power modification done on the bike, the ABS reset that on the Hall Of Wisdom can be follow or working if the ABS is need to reset. Can you confirm on this.

Many Thanks.
==========
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:05 AM   #28
switch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmanet
Hi Switch,

Just wonder whether after the ABS Power modification done on the bike, the ABS reset that on the Hall Of Wisdom can be follow or working if the ABS is need to reset. Can you confirm on this.

Many Thanks.
==========
The ABS reset must be done with both lights blinking in unison. After the mod, you need to start the engine and rev it once (if you have a low battery), THEN do the ABS reset thingie.

Also, disabling the ABS means holding the ABS button from key-on throughout cranking, until you rev the engine slightly and the battery light goes out.

Actually, I'm not sure if you need to hold it from key-on -- might work if you just press it before cranking.

...sucks if you don't have a neutral sensor
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:53 AM   #29
Dan Căta
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The abs on a 1100 can also be disabled if the bike is off, you keep the green starter button pressed, switch ignition key on, the bike starts, then release the green button :)
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:27 AM   #30
toecutta
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Hi All

Finally just got around to doing this to remove the "multistart ABS" my 96 GS has.... errr... had

I just created a piggyback blade connector off the blue charge wire from the alternator
found pin 15 of the ABS connector (after 1st eying off the motronic connector in error)
as my wiring loom is starting to disintegrate my access was a little easier
combination of spade connectors, solder and heat-shrink made the connections
used some spirax and some more heat-shrink to armor it all up again

MUCH simpler than the relay solution... 20 mins in total... should of done this YEARS ago, would of saved a HEAP of wear and tear on the starter cct

worked 1st time... works a treat

thanks heaps

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