TuneECU for 990 - got tunes?

[rtadlock]

Originally Posted by PowerCell

To all who ordered a cable from me and are still waiting -

The female adaptor connectors have been held up in customs. I'm hoping to see them sometime this week - if everything goes well. Please allow some patience and I promise to get the cables built, tested and shipped within 24 hours of receiving the needed parts.

Please refrain from sending me a PM inquiring if your cable has been shipped. Having to respond to these messages isn't making my life much easier, or getting your cables delivered any faster.


Thanks ~ Ken

Thanks for the update. I for one, say take your time. I understand this isn't your full time job.

Rob

[924sas]

Originally Posted by rtadlock

thanks for the update. I for one, say take your time. I understand this isn't your full time job.

Rob

+1

[Tijuana_Taxi]

+2

[grinns]

Originally Posted by nevermind

Gents,

Wouldn't setting the 2nd Throttle table to 100 in every cell be the same as removing the butterflies?

Yep I did this on sunday trying to debug a stalling problem. Starting to look like a bad map sensor.

[nevermind]

Originally Posted by grinns

Yep I did this on sunday trying to debug a stalling problem. Starting to look like a bad map sensor.

Thanks Grinns...

[Tom-Hamburg]

Originally Posted by teti

I understand that for desabilitarlo it is necessary to remove the butterflies (round caps) or the entire 2nd Accelerator? or one or the other.
so
Thank youentiendo que para desabilitarlo es necesario quitar las mariposas (tapas redondas) o todo el conjunto de 2º acelerador ? o uno o el otro.
es asi
gracias

According to Alain, either or ..........

For security, you can self ask Alain.

BR, Tom

[MAXVERT]

Originally Posted by rtadlock

Thanks for the update. I for one, say take your time. I understand this isn't your full time job.

Rob

+1, I have all winter, a few days one way or the other shouldn't be
an issue with anyone.

Max

[twodollardoug]

i have a question. is the 15 minute reset necessary after every single map change? no matter how minute? for instance, raising the idle by 100 rpm.

[cyborg]

Originally Posted by mrbubblehead

i have a question. is the 15 minute reset necessary after every single map change? no matter how minute? for instance, raising the idle by 100 rpm.

In my experience, with over 30 map iterations on my 990S, no. There is an option in the Tuneboy software to Reset Adaptive Settings, which I think does the same thing as the 15 minute 'reset to fast learn' ECU function. TuneECU probably has the same thing, haven't messed with it much yet.

[barlytreat]

http://www.tomhamburg.net/TuneECU_En/Quick_Guide.html

[big-t]

There is an option in the Tuneboy software to Reset Adaptive Settings, which I think does the same thing as the 15 minute 'reset to fast learn' ECU function. TuneECU probably has the same thing, haven't messed with it much yet.

Not sure about the 990,but on the automotive side,we use the "Reset adaptive settings" to reset the "learned" memory back to the factory settings after a repair.Most PCMs have the capability of relearning as you drive but it takes a while.

Easier to just do a "Reboot" ( Reset adaptive settings)

[924sas]

when i got my new mapping was a 15min run done - it is a learning thing not a reset!

[cyborg]

Originally Posted by 924sas

when i got my new mapping was a 15min run done - it is a learning thing not a reset!

How do you know the "learning thing" (15min reset fast-learn mode) is not the same thing as a Reset Adaptive Settings? Do you have a source?
I think that's still a vague question we all have.

Dealers have to do the map and 15min idle because their programming tool actually has less options than a Tuneboy, as told to me by a KTM Service Manager. The only way they can reset learn mode is with the annoying 15min idle.

[tahoeacr]

I will try to explain this. KTM makes all the maps for say, sea level at 70 degrees. Your dealer installs a new map. But, you are at 1,000 elevation and 55 degrees. The idle trick(15 minute reset) is done so the adaptive settings can be set. In other words, while your bike is idleing, the ECU is looking at these sensors. The ECU sees that you are at 1,000' elevation by what the pressure sensor under the front mask sends back to the ECU. The temp sensor in the airbox tells the ECU that you are at 55 degrees(the reason you are suppose to do the idle trick on a stone cold engine). Also with the ECU seeing the Lambdas are running richer do to the elevation, the TPS, Manifold pressure with RPM data etc, etc. It then takes a pre-set formula to "fine tune" that map that was just installed to your conditions.

Now fast forward a couple months. Your dealer has a new map that is leaner in some areas. You go get it installed but your in a hurry and don't have time for this re-set. Plus, you just rode the bike down there. The new map is installed. You jump on your bike and scoot out of there. Here is what is happening in that situation. Your previous "adaptive settings" had leaned out your map because you are at 1,000' el. Now you just took off on a leaner new map. Those adaptive "old" settings are going to instantly lean out the new map. Plus, you brought your bike in "hot". The dealer installed the map straight away for you as you where in a hurry. While he was doing this, your engine heat completely "heat soaked" the airbox. Now when the ECU first starts up, it "sees" a ridiculous high temp in the airbox. What do you think that does to the adaptive settings then?

If you don't do a re-set the ECU will learn and correct with time. It is suppose to "look" to correct every 5 minutes but how much does it correct each time? Seems that it takes a few hundred miles.

My opinion is that the closer you get to a "proper" map the less you need to do a re-set. And since all of you FF's are on here reading this your map must really suck!

[cyborg]

Originally Posted by tahoeacr

I will try to explain this. KTM makes all the maps for say, sea level at 70 degrees. Your dealer installs a new map. But, you are at 1,000 elevation and 55 degrees. The idle trick(15 minute reset) is done so the adaptive settings can be set. In other words, while your bike is idleing, the ECU is looking at these sensors. The ECU sees that you are at 1,000' elevation by what the pressure sensor under the front mask sends back to the ECU. The temp sensor in the airbox tells the ECU that you are at 55 degrees(the reason you are suppose to do the idle trick on a stone cold engine). Also with the ECU seeing the Lambdas are running richer do to the elevation, the TPS, Manifold pressure with RPM data etc, etc. It then takes a pre-set formula to "fine tune" that map that was just installed to your conditions.

Now fast forward a couple months. Your dealer has a new map that is leaner in some areas. You go get it installed but your in a hurry and don't have time for this re-set. Plus, you just rode the bike down there. The new map is installed. You jump on your bike and scoot out of there. Here is what is happening in that situation. Your previous "adaptive settings" had leaned out your map because you are at 1,000' el. Now you just took off on a leaner new map. Those adaptive "old" settings are going to instantly lean out the new map. Plus, you brought your bike in "hot". The dealer installed the map straight away for you as you where in a hurry. While he was doing this, your engine heat completely "heat soaked" the airbox. Now when the ECU first starts up, it "sees" a ridiculous high temp in the airbox. What do you think that does to the adaptive settings then?

If you don't do a re-set the ECU will learn and correct with time. It is suppose to "look" to correct every 5 minutes but how much does it correct each time? Seems that it takes a few hundred miles.

My opinion is that the closer you get to a "proper" map the less you need to do a re-set. And since all of you FF's are on here reading this your map must really suck!

Good 'splainin Jeff. As you know we did re-set our adaptive settings with Tuneboy for the first map changes, but in the course of fine tuning many maps, sometimes twice a day, I often didn't even do the Tuneboy reset because I was at the same elevation and bike cold. Since the maps were just fine tunes, there was likely no danger of radically lean maps when doing that. With unknown maps and original map load conditions I would say it would be wise to re-set adaptive settings at least the first time you load a new map, either by 15-min idle or software reset of Adaptive Settings.