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Old 01-22-2011, 04:17 PM   #6856
frdbronco8
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Thanks for all the help and ideas (and encouragment). Ill start working through them one by one. I just got back from trying the 45 pilot and it seemed to want to idle for an even shorter amount of time. Going to go back to the 40 that was in it and start from there.

I have the idle at about 2k. Ill try to lower it to adjust the fuel screw but Im not sure it will run long enough to get a reading. I guess this means its not the problem though too
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:06 PM   #6857
yondering
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Hmmm. If it already had the 40 jet in it, and you adjusted the mixture screw right, I don't think jetting is the problem.
I'd suggest changing the plug first, and making sure it has good fresh gas. I assume you've put fresh gas in it by now? Check the valve adjustment too, they need to be adjusted occasionally, and could cause idle/starting issues.

Also make sure the pink carb vent lines aren't blocked with something. If you had it in some deep mud, those lines could get blocked and cause issues.

This is a dumb question, but you don't have the choke on at the first detent do you?

yondering screwed with this post 01-22-2011 at 07:36 PM
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:09 PM   #6858
shearboy2004
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Clutch Cover Questions

There seems to be some difference in clutch covers that I was totally unaware of .

I have been having some wet sumping issues with my DR450 and while I had the cover off to replace a kickstart seal I had a look at the oil check valve and discovered that I didn't have one in this bike and that the 98 does ! I bottom ends seem the same but there is certainly a difference between covers .

The first pics shows the cover I have on the bike and the second is one of a 98 cover I had laying around , in the second pic you can see the rubber insert and behind that is a spring and ball stop valve .

What i am wondering is , would it be ok to swap covers and have the stop valve working on my 450? or could it cause major issues??







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Old 01-24-2011, 04:46 AM   #6859
johnnyandjebus
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Hey all

My master kill switch, start button assembly is dieing a slow death, the start button is not making solid contact. Some times it works others not so much. The original assembly has been dis-continued any suggestions for an after-market replacement?

John
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:48 AM   #6860
Wylie
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Akey, like here

If you have electric start I think the same place might have something for you.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:04 AM   #6861
Drif10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyandjebus View Post
Hey all

My master kill switch, start button assembly is dieing a slow death, the start button is not making solid contact. Some times it works others not so much. The original assembly has been dis-continued any suggestions for an after-market replacement?

John
Not uncommon on an older bike, they get dirty and built up with carbon. Every time you use it, there's a little arc as it makes contact. Eventually, it stops conducting.

You can pop it apart and clean the contacts. If you're not comfortable with that, just take the unit off the bar and bring it over, I can clean it for you. Once you've seen it done, you'll have no problems doing it yourself in the future.
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:38 AM   #6862
Pablo83
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Does the '98 kicker model (no starter, no battery) have AC or DC current?
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:03 AM   #6863
BikePilot
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If it truly has no battery (from the factory - some came with batteries and folks swapped in capacitors in their place) its AC. A DC regulator won't work without a battery or capacitor of some sort as far as I know. I've not owned a dirt model to say from experience with the specific bike though.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:52 AM   #6864
Pablo83
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I'll also be dealing with this shortly on my DR project. To be safe, you could swap the oil pumps too. Do you know if there's any difference between the two pumps?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
There seems to be some difference in clutch covers that I was totally unaware of .

I have been having some wet sumping issues with my DR450 and while I had the cover off to replace a kickstart seal I had a look at the oil check valve and discovered that I didn't have one in this bike and that the 98 does ! I bottom ends seem the same but there is certainly a difference between covers .

The first pics shows the cover I have on the bike and the second is one of a 98 cover I had laying around , in the second pic you can see the rubber insert and behind that is a spring and ball stop valve .

What i am wondering is , would it be ok to swap covers and have the stop valve working on my 450? or could it cause major issues??







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Old 01-24-2011, 09:08 AM   #6865
dtp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyandjebus View Post
Hey all

My master kill switch, start button assembly is dieing a slow death, the start button is not making solid contact. Some times it works others not so much. The original assembly has been dis-continued any suggestions for an after-market replacement?

John
You can try cleaning it as suggested or what I did was go to Cycle Gear and bought a new one. Any after market switch will work. I chose one that is much easier to read for on and off than the stock switch.
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:22 AM   #6866
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
I'll also be dealing with this shortly on my DR project. To be safe, you could swap the oil pumps too. Do you know if there's any difference between the two pumps?
Think I have it sorted Mate , I went online looking at pics of all year DR's and came up with this .

Seems all DR's prior to 94 didn't have the check valve then along with the start of the electric start they began putting them in so if you have an electric start model it should have this type of cover , mine didn't and it was my fault as I built the engine my self using what I had around and choose the wrong cover .It didn't really have any bad effects apart from it always wet sumping .

It is easy to see the right cover from the outside as the oil channel that runs down from the filter housing to the bottom of the cover is straight and smooth on the earlier models but on the later ones it has a round bulge and something that looks like it wanted to be a sight glass molding .
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Old 01-24-2011, 11:12 AM   #6867
Wadester
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Guess what? SeatConcepts is offering Group Buy on their foam&cover kits (fits your stock pan):

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...1#post15019104

"we are offering a 10% discount for the first 10, 15% for 15 and 20% if 20 guys sign up.
All riders will get free shipping within the continental US. Everyone else we will give a discounted rate.
Also we can not extend these offers to "Custom" builds. (IE tall or low seats on models that we do not offer a kit that already is tall or low , or models that are not listed in our model line up) These are handled on a per order basis.
I will add riders to each list as they confirm!
For the standard kit buy be sure to give your make and year model of bike, and preference for softness or firmness of foam and seat cover style.( a rider weight will do if you are not sure, we will consult with you about firmness)
Either pm me or respond here to be added to the lists! But PM me with payment detail please."

Their DR350 kit is in final stages of completion. All reviews of their kits are positive. Base price is $150. I'm the first DR350 requester. Let's shoot for the 20% discount!
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:09 PM   #6868
frdbronco8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering View Post
frdbronco8, a couple further thoughts: I think it has the 37.5 pilot jet in it, try the #40 (there's on in the jet kit). It was running best in the late summer/fall with the 37.5, and I rode it in November in the snow with no idle issues, but maybe my riding style is enough different?

Also, along with checking the plug cap and wire, check for any loose electrical connections in the ignition circuit. It's possible something started to vibrate loose when I rode it last, and I never noticed.

One other thing, that shouldn't matter: Stock, there's a resistor in the plug cap. I took it out, after reading about it in this thread, and put in a piece of copper wire. Check that it isn't loose (flathead screw inside the plug cap). The stock resistor is the little grey piece in the bag of jets, looks like a short chunk of brazing rod, you could try putting that back in if you want; I didn't notice much difference.

Keep posting details; I'll help however I can. I hate that it's giving you trouble.

Just to help me (or us) give the right advice, what's your experience level with carb tuning and troubleshooting; are you an expert, or just learning the basics?
Bought a new plug today and started pulling things apart. The air filter was pretty dirty so I cleaned it (just to eliminate everything i can) and am waiting for it to dry as we speak. As I pulle the spark plug cap off the plug it practically fell off the wire when I let go. Not sure if this has something to do with the resistor you speak of. Ill mess with it when i get back into the garage.

Ill keep ya updated, thanks for the help.

To answer your question my experience with carbs is on the low end. I have had a BST 40 all the way apart but never been deep into a pumper carb.

PS any one have prefence with the DPR9 over the DPR8 spark plug or visa versa?
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frdbronco8 screwed with this post 01-24-2011 at 03:11 PM Reason: added plug stuff
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:21 PM   #6869
fletchbee
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Eek DR350 jetting kit and Muffler conversion

Hello guys,

Has anyone bought that DR350 Stock Muffler Conversion from Kientech?

If so had it made any differents to power?

what about the combo deal he has going with the stock exhuast mod and jet kit?
Iam thinking of getting the jet kit but might get both?
It's about 100 US dollards plus shipping. [from Australia, might cost as much to ship it there and back though]

Just wondering if it's worth getting the stock pipe converted or getting an after market that is lighter and maybe better?

What are your thoughts?

Is there a good aftermarket can that works with his jetting kit?

Thanks for your time and help

kind regards

Andrew
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:34 PM   #6870
mel brooks
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Andrew,

I recently got a modded stock pipe from Jesse at Keintech.

I replaced a very loud Cobra aftermarket pipe, so I can't compare to a stocker. Power seems to be equal to or even maybe a bit better (seat of the pants testing only) than the Cobra. Jesse will send you a jet kit and instructions on how to mod your airbox.

I really like the sound, nice and mellow at idle, a good sound, but not too loud under power. Nothing obnoxious like that Cobra I had on it previously.
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