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Old 01-25-2011, 09:19 PM   #46
nomad guy
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is the immobilizer an add on option or a must on your model ?.
i am pretty sure there is a way to tell the ecu to ignore the immobilizer.
so this is the R model that comes without an ABS because its race ready,
but has an immobilizer...you know them kangaroos have some nasty sticky hands
i can understand your unhappiness with the bike.
it takes a very customer friendly and consistent dealer to make the factory recognize the bike as a "lemon".
keep documents of everything that goes on with this bike.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:02 AM   #47
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How are the immobilizers set up? Meaning is it something that sends an electrical current to the ECU? I'm just wondering if there's a way to wire in a resistor like on the canisterectomy and if this will convince the bike that the correct key is there. It'd be similar to making it an "Always On", where on = the right key is in the ignition.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:00 AM   #48
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Just look up EWS over in the BMW GS forums and you will find all these questions answered regarding the immobilizer systems.


Pain in the Ass, and no work arounds were ever found to shut it off.

There was one test cable that could be left in the bike with your extra key and an immobilizer antennae under the seat. This would effectively defeat the antenna problem, but if the ECU part goes corrupt you're still SOL

Is this an European anti theft requirement?? Don't know.


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Old 03-13-2011, 03:07 PM   #49
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I'm in the process of buying a 2010R and this thread has made me question that decision. I will seriously consider the thread about swapping a 990 from EFI to carbs.
I have had quite a few bikes with EFI. My current bike is a Honda CBR1100XX that is modified with a turbo and I have never seen anything from any of them even remotely similar to what was described here.
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Old 03-13-2011, 05:46 PM   #50
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The Blackbird's pretty old school. This immobilizer stuff is fairly recent. Just since '09 on the KTM. KTM doesn't generally add electronics unless it has to to meet gov't regs in one of their markets. I suspect all the mfrs will eventually go that way. Auto mfrs have been doing it for much longer. My wife's '00 Toyota Avalon has it.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.


cpmodem screwed with this post 03-13-2011 at 05:53 PM
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:20 AM   #51
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So.......theoretically it would be possible to replace the '09-'10 ECU with an '08 and that would effectively get rid of the immobilizer feature.
Fuel maps ect would probably need to be changed but that could be accomplished with TuneECU.
Does anyone know if the plugs on both ECUs are the same. That would be handy.

Next question would be where to buy an '08 ECU and how much are they
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Old 03-14-2011, 08:35 AM   #52
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The ECU and wiring harness is the same from '08 through '11. The immobilizer is an add on part that plugs into the '09 -'11 ignition lock. It looks like you can buy an '08 ignition lock to replace yours and eliminate the immobilizer. The ignition lock is the same since '03 and cost $150. If the '09 - '11 ECU isn't copacetic with that just load the TuneECU map of your choice. There's '08 LC8's running '10 Tunes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XX4me View Post
So.......theoretically it would be possible to replace the '09-'10 ECU with an '08 and that would effectively get rid of the immobilizer feature.
Fuel maps ect would probably need to be changed but that could be accomplished with TuneECU.
Does anyone know if the plugs on both ECUs are the same. That would be handy.

Next question would be where to buy an '08 ECU and how much are they
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 03-14-2011, 08:46 AM   #53
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TuneECU are you listening?

Isn't ECU is still going to be looking for it? The purpose is so you can't bypass the ignition and hot wire the bike, you need the real key that has been previously programmed to the ECU. There should be a way to turn off this feature, maybe the Tune ECU will be able to at some point. This must be required in Europe because my Westfalia Sprinter has the same feature and it crapped out and was expensive and hard to get and no way to get around it.
If the ECU is losing communication with the ant. ring, we should be able to replace it with a spare one, the key is the same so it should still be recognized and be able to start the bike. I hope.
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:21 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catalina38 View Post
Isn't ECU is still going to be looking for it? The purpose is so you can't bypass the ignition and hot wire the bike, you need the real key that has been previously programmed to the ECU. There should be a way to turn off this feature, maybe the Tune ECU will be able to at some point. This must be required in Europe because my Westfalia Sprinter has the same feature and it crapped out and was expensive and hard to get and no way to get around it.
If the ECU is losing communication with the ant. ring, we should be able to replace it with a spare one, the key is the same so it should still be recognized and be able to start the bike. I hope.

That was my thought too. If the '09 and later ECUs have an additional programed "switch" that has to be tuned on via the antenna ring for the bike to start and the '08 ECU is the same just without the encrypted "switch" why not just yank the ECU and replace with an earlier model.
I bet it would start and run enough to get home. Maybe not the same level of performance but one could add the new R map via TuneEcu and there you go.
Might be cheaper and easier than swapping out the EFI for carbs.

I don't know why but this whole immobilizer thing irritates me. Seems more ridiculous considering I haven't picked up the bike yet. Anyway why is it that manufacturers never seem to focus on improving the problem areas of a product while leaving the parts that aint broke alone?
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:09 AM   #55
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I did a little research and the immobilizer looks to be a separate part from the key lock/barrel. It plugs into the lock with a short cable and plug that runs under the frame glove box. The question is, is the ICU or immobilizer control unit as it is called in the KTM parts list being programmed to the keys and giving the ECU the OK to start and thus maybe able to be fooled, or is it sending the key code to the ECU and might not be able to be fooled with a resistor or dummy plug. This part is listed a being for the 990SM since 2008 as well and list price is around $450.
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:12 PM   #56
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A possible weak link.

My mechanik recently found out the HID ballast could interfere with the immobilizer antenna. Seems the ballast should be in some distance from the keyhole. Suncruiser did you have HID headlights installed?
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:23 PM   #57
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FWIW mine and my riding partner's 990R's both have HID's and so far no issues. I'm waiting for a way to turn off this feature via the ECU.
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:26 PM   #58
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Immobilizer + HID's

Gefr, thanks for that interesting point, yes I've got HID's installed for both, headlight and high beam, two ballasts installed about a foot away from the ignition right under the front alu plates supporting the head light. does your mechanic recommend a safe distance for the ballast ?
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Old 04-18-2011, 01:01 PM   #59
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I guess you have a safe distance.

My mechanic mentionerd that for installation of the ballastas close to the key. He found it creates problems on Ducatis, where the ballasts were mounted on a beam supporting also the key. I also have my ballasts mounted at the aluminum plates of the subframe, however I do not have immobilizer. I think the distance is safe but if you encounter another problem, keep it in mind for another thing to check. You never now with these complicated things...
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Old 04-18-2011, 01:44 PM   #60
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Ballast solution

I'll install a simple on/off switch for the head light. at start up I'll switch off the head light so the ballast won't interfere with the immobilizer antenna or the key. that should do the trick.
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