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Old 02-15-2011, 09:51 PM   #16
hpsVFR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian-M View Post
I've been away from VFRs since 2004, but that's all I knew for the decade before that. I never heard of fitting a relay to the reg/rec ~ but they are WELL known for burning out the diodes (not all at one time) so the rectifying of AC to DC would stop. As mentioned, the plug between the Reg/Rec and the stator/battery/ground was a known failure point, to the point of melting/catching on fire. Clean/inspect/replace as needed. After burning my first, I never burned another (dielectric grease packed).
On my '94 (rather a different machine from the '86 in other respects), I simply removed this connector and permanently connected (and sealed) the wires together. It's a permanent modification, but I figured that the only time I'll need to pull that connector apart would be either:
a) to inspect and re-pack it with grease
b) because I need to replace the stator

I'm comfortable with cutting and splicing my wiring should I ever need to get into it, and now I don't need to ever inspect and re-pack that connector. It's an option to consider, anyway. Otherwise, absolutely keep that thing packed with grease and regularly inspected.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian-M View Post
Doesn't mean the Reg/Rec will stay alive. People have swapped in all manor of replacements, none worked better than OEM but since you can get them for about $10 at junkyards it's a cheap fix.
Whether or not you agree with Brian-M about the OEM R/R, the key here is that junkyards offer modern units (with cooling fins!!!) at very low prices. R/Rs are pretty much all the same sort of thing, so you don't need the OEM unit, nor even a bespoke replacement, in order to get a good one. So long as the charging system of the bike it comes off of is similar in capacity, you can make it work. You may need to modify the connectors and perhaps add a sensor wire to do so, however.

If you don't already understand 12V systems, a bit of study will help you avoid the signature problem of the VF and VFR series of motorcycle. If you do have problems, as already stated, VFRD, the garage here, and the VFR owners thread, are all great resources.

Enjoy that VF!
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:44 AM   #17
Tommy_J
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A used 30 dollar R1 regulator has been dead reliable for me. This pic shows how to wire it on a 5th gen. The fins were huge and had to be trimmed some.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:43 AM   #18
MikeinEugene
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If you haven't already found a good V4 forum I'd recommend checking these guys out:

http://v4hondabbs.com/index.php

A bunch of us Magna/Sabre/Interceptor owners on there. Current content & tons of archived stuff. None of the good stuff is searchable without an account though, so if you don't see anything it's because you're not logged in. I thought the site was dead when I first got my Magna until I got an invite from a member & was able to get logged in.
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:11 AM   #19
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Well, I make the 530 mile journey in the morning to go pick up the VF700F. Wish me luck. Weather looks great for the drive. Be back home Sunday night with my new basketcase addiction.

Headed to Jonesboro, AR to pick it up. Anyone around there that can recommend a decent place to eat?
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Old 02-18-2011, 12:46 PM   #20
chammyman
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Originally Posted by chambersc View Post
Can you explain a couple of these to the idiot newbie for me?

What are the "HT" leads?

How did you go about fitting a rely to the rectifier and what does that do for it?

And I hear some people say the rear shock can't be rebuilt and then others say to do it? I assume I can at lest tear it down and change the fluid in it nd possible replace seals?

Lastly, I've read a couple of things about people eliminating the fuel pump entirely and just running the bike as a traditional gravity feed system? Is this possible without issues?
As someone else mentioned HT leads are the plug leads or spark plug - coil leads or whatever you want to call them. I suppose this is another Anglo - American barrier.

Rear shocks I just drained and refilled them, they held air, no leaks and whilst soft compared to other bikes this is the spring not the damper. Also the seal I could get was ridiculously priced. Heres an exciting picture of me filling the shock back up, make sure the top bush is free and well greased



Rectifiers mine have cooling fins, all 3 VF's all have cooling fins on their rectifiers. Then again in their mid 20's they have all probably been changed at least once.

The rectifiers burn out on the yellow 3 phase wire side due to poor connection, tighten them up and they don't burn out.

The other plug has similar issues but in all honesty don't even bother with it.

My wiring mods are;

extra earthing which helps everything.

Earth the rectifier directly to the chassis or like me direct to the battery.

Black wire is from the ignition switch this switches the relay, the new wire direct from the battery goes to the relay which feeds the rectifier the true battery voltage.

This means it sees the battery voltage not the voltage drop after passing through the loom and ignition switch etc etc So the battery isn't constantly being charged and the rest of the things on the bike like the bulbs, cdi, pump etc get an easier time.

that's a pretty poor description on how to do it, I will get pictures of how I did it tomorrow if the weather holds. I do this mod to all my bikes as it works great.

Another good mod is a relay to the headlight, Means the bulb gets a constant stable supply and it takes the load off an ageing loom.

Gravity feed won't work, the tank design means even if you have the tank full and no hose connected it doesn't just run out, you need the pump to draw it out.

So you need the pump, you can mod them to make them last longer like the KTM guys but I have never heard of an issue with them on the vf's
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Old 02-18-2011, 03:30 PM   #21
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Thanks for all of the insight, Chammyman
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:27 PM   #22
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I'm home and things don't seem promising...

Got home tonight 1100 miles later round trip and I'm thinking I may have a boat anchor for a motor on my hands. Been parked for years, etc, etc. When we pulled it out of the shed, the spark plugs were out!!!!!

I asked why and he tells me "I had them out to check them and never put them back."

I loaded up the bike, came back home 532 miles, and began to tinker a bit. Got the carbs soaking in the magic pine sol mixture at the moment as they were very slow and sticky moving.

Meanwhile, I tossed it in gear and attemped to turn the rear when and couldn't! Pulled the stator cover, put a breakover on the bolt and couldn't turn it that way either! (Mind you, no spark plugs)

I pulled valve covers to check for cam galling and there's rust on a few places on the cams and holders.

Grabbed a 17mm wrench, pulled the drain plug, and got half a quart of water before I got oil. I'm guessing this thing is rusted seized. If that ends up being the case, I guess I'm going to part it out. Forks, swingarm, wheels, dash, carbs, hand controls, brakes, airbox, etc. Just gain back what I spent and call it a lost cause. We'll see.

Just as an attempt I hosed down the cams and holders liberally with Marvel Mystery oil and then filled the cylinders with it. Even if it does break free, I have a fear if I get the carbs cleaned up, stuff a battery and fresh gas in it, its going to be a ticking time bomb.

Let me add one piece of input to the scenario... I paid $250 for a 17,000 mile complete bike with a title. I figure I can recoup that in parting it out if I have to. Not going to recoup the trip, but the girlfriend and I had a good time and that was worth the drive and hotel. I'm not going to fret about that part.

Thoughts, input, cajoling, insults?
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:35 PM   #23
Brian-M
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Engines are cheap and easy to replace (so long as the rest of the bike is in presentable shape).
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Old 02-21-2011, 05:47 AM   #24
LuciferMutt
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If you can get the thing spinning you might be surprised how much longer it runs, and for $250 it's worth a shot, no? Sorry to hear it is such bad shape.
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:33 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by DevilNinjaDog View Post
If you can get the thing spinning you might be surprised how much longer it runs, and for $250 it's worth a shot, no? Sorry to hear it is such bad shape.
That's kind of my plan right now. I'll finish cleaning up the carbs, put them back on it, and in the mean time see if I can get it to free up and start turning. If so, I'll come up with a battery somewhere to use temporarily before I invest in one, put some fresh gas in it, and see what it does. If it DOES start and run and doesn't make horrible noises then I guess I decide then what to do with it.

If it doesn't want to free up or makes horrible top end noises then I guess its time to start parting it out. I suppose I could attempt to hunt down another motor but then I risk the same roulette I played with this one.
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:44 AM   #26
chammyman
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I forgot to get pics of the rectifier set up. sorry will do when the snow stops!

Anyway, seized engine, most likely it will run again, how well without opening it up is another matter.

I have freed off a few locked solid engines and some have gone on to do mega miles afterwards.

Horrible noises, one that a friend bought made terrible noises then it would stop eventually, I told him it was most likely the chain and guides but hes not bothered to repair it and it still motors on.

The one my sister uses I knocked together in the back garden out of a few engines. Works fine took no time at all either. The engine that was in that bike came to me with the carbs off and no plugs and the bores and inlet ports full of water. I have yet to actually look into it.

Heres some pics of the other engine I fixed to put in my sisters bike, no compression on the rear cylinders, turned out to be dirty valve seats, a quick lapping sorted.











I have more pictures, in fact I am a mod on another non bike site but have done reports over on it of my bike shenanigans. if anyone is interested in seeing them I can provide links to them.
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:47 AM   #27
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also heres a quick pic of the typical state of rectifier/regulator connector plugs as I mentioned in a previous post

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Old 02-21-2011, 03:09 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by chammyman View Post
I have more pictures, in fact I am a mod on another non bike site but have done reports over on it of my bike shenanigans. if anyone is interested in seeing them I can provide links to them.
I, at least, would like to see it if you have a chance to send it over to me. Worth checking out. I just re-doused everything with a combination of PB Blaster and Marvel a few minutes ago. We'll see what it does.

I'm not being overly hopeful, but maybe its worth the time and money...
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:21 PM   #29
chammyman
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Originally Posted by chambersc View Post
I, at least, would like to see it if you have a chance to send it over to me. Worth checking out. I just re-doused everything with a combination of PB Blaster and Marvel a few minutes ago. We'll see what it does.

I'm not being overly hopeful, but maybe its worth the time and money...
I sent you a private message

The secret with stuck engines is patience... or a big oven and a chest freezer.

The engine is not that hard to pull getting it back in is awkward, the easiest way I found to do it was to put the bike on its side. Of course if you strip it to a bare frame its easy just position the frame easily.

With the engine out the heads are off in ten minutes and contrary to what you read elsewhere the timing etc is easy enough to set up.
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:47 PM   #30
Hank.SD
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Fun thread.. hope you get it freed up!
I bought a matching pair (serial numbers are 12 apart) of 83 VF750Fs a month or so ago. Both are in excellent shape, but neither run but apparently did 3 years ago. Both have very very low miles. Tanks and carbs are varnished up but have no other known issues. I'll be tackling them soon!
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