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Old 03-05-2011, 01:20 PM   #1
joeysmoke OP
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Scooter Noob with POR 15 Questions

Hey gang. Thanks to some help from some scoot brothers I've tracked down a POR 15 cycle tank kit and will do that to my 85 Elite while I change the brakes on my car today. Since I've read that duct tape is useless, what can I do to plug or cap the holes to get the job done right? Any other tips to make this go smooth and successful? Thanks so much.
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:37 PM   #2
Warney
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I wouldn't use POR15, Cream, Creme, Kream, or any other "sealer" as that stuff sucks. The goop that is used to "seal" the tank will eventually break loose of the tank wall and plug up the fuel pickup or worse. If you have a rusty gas tank pour it full of an acid etchant like Yamaha 2-part gas tank cleaner/neutralizer (follow the directions to the letter) or there are online homebrew methods of doing the same thing at a fraction of the cost. Google "cleaning rusty gas tank on Motorcycle" or similar search term and you'll be happy with the results.

Edited to add that I've done this on several Motorcycles and Scooters with rusty tanks, with excellent results.
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:45 PM   #3
joeysmoke OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warney View Post
I wouldn't use POR15, Cream, Creme, Kream, or any other "sealer" as that stuff sucks. The goop that is used to "seal" the tank will eventually break loose of the tank wall and plug up the fuel pickup or worse. If you have a rusty gas tank pour it full of an acid etchant like Yamaha 2-part gas tank cleaner/neutralizer (follow the directions to the letter) or there are online homebrew methods of doing the same thing at a fraction of the cost. Google "cleaning rusty gas tank on Motorcycle" or similar search term and you'll be happy with the results.

Edited to add that I've done this on several Motorcycles and Scooters with rusty tanks, with excellent results.
thanks for the input. i did a days worth of research and people recommended por-15 as the overwhelming favorite vs Kreem. I've already bought the kit and want to know how I can cap or plug the holes without leaking.
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:01 PM   #4
ivantheterrible
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I've also used por-15 with very good results. I plugged the holes in the tanks I've done with a piece of plywood cut in a circle (used the correct size hole saw) used an old piece of inner tube as a gasket, and a toogle bolt to secure it to the tank. Let mr know if that's too convoluted, and i'll try again.
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:02 PM   #5
nedc
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I've never had a bad experience with various tank sealers. Follow the directions and the POR 15 will work like it's supposed to. I have a variety of rubber plugs, etc. that i use to stop up the holes. Probably even corks would work. Look around and see what you have.
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:50 PM   #6
kirkster70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warney View Post
I wouldn't use POR15, Cream, Creme, Kream, or any other "sealer" as that stuff sucks. The goop that is used to "seal" the tank will eventually break loose of the tank wall and plug up the fuel pickup or worse. If you have a rusty gas tank pour it full of an acid etchant like Yamaha 2-part gas tank cleaner/neutralizer (follow the directions to the letter) or there are online homebrew methods of doing the same thing at a fraction of the cost. Google "cleaning rusty gas tank on Motorcycle" or similar search term and you'll be happy with the results.

Edited to add that I've done this on several Motorcycles and Scooters with rusty tanks, with excellent results.
I'm going to have to completely disagree with this post. If done properly, POR-15 will outlast the tank, and it will never chip or flake. If you have some excess, pour it in a small plastic cup and let it harden. You can't even crack it with a 3 lb. hammer.

I used POR-15 exclusively for about 15 years or so while custom painting Harleys. Customers would often buy a new aftermarket stretched tank and I would always seal a new tank with POR-15.

I never had one single "come back". Ever.

Just follow the directions to the "T".

Every step has it's purpose. The etch included in the kit will allow the sealer to adhere. When rinsing out the etch, be careful around concrete, because it will etch that as well.

I have the exact same scooter, so I am familiar with the tank design.

Make sure to remove the float for the fuel gauge so that you do not ruin it.

For the bottom threaded bung, use a small piece of plastic sheeting and rubber bands. Even a plastic grocery bag will work.

Use more plastic (or grocery bags) on the float hole and tape it well. Duct tape is fine. Leaving the filler cap open is fine. Don't install the cap while sealing, or you will ruin it, unless you plan on buying a new cap anyway.

When rotating the tank around, try to imagine what it is doing inside. Get every square inch covered with etch and sealer. After etching, the tank needs to be 100% bone dry before sealing. Otherwise, you will have adhesion problems. A good trick here is to rig up a flexible hose from a shop vac with duct tape. It takes HOURS for it to dry this way. It takes DAYS to dry on it's own in the sun. This is critical. That's why some people say these products suck. They rush, screw up, and have poor results. Therefore, this product sucks. That's just not the case.

When ready to seal, again, imagine what it's doing inside. You may be rotating the tank for a hour or so. Pour out the excess. You may have to pour out the excess multiple times. This product tends to swell and foam a bit. Keep in mind that it doesn't dry instantly. If you flip it around a bit and then say "all done!", it will run down the sides, puddle, take forever to dry, and probably block the bottom bung.

After you think you have sealed it the best you possibly can, prop the tank on it's side for 15 minutes. Lay it on it's top for 15 min. Do the other side for 15 min, etc. You get the idea. It will run and puddle, and you want to prevent this as best as you can.

This stuff is stinky, and messy. Pick a nice day where you can be outside. Wear crappy clothes and disposable gloves.

Good luck! Take your time and pick a day where you don't have to rush, and you'll be fine.
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:03 PM   #7
joeysmoke OP
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Thanks Kirkster! Will the fuel strainer that sits in the tank atop the petcock have problems going back in once you've ran sealer down it's spot?
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Old 03-05-2011, 08:20 PM   #8
kirkster70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeysmoke View Post
Thanks Kirkster! Will the fuel strainer that sits in the tank atop the petcock have problems going back in once you've ran sealer down it's spot?
Possibly. Just let the sealer cure then carefully use a rat tail file to remove enough for the strainer to go back in.

I had to install a new strainer in my tank because I couldn't remove the old one without damaging it.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:52 AM   #9
HandKPhil
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No problem with Kreem

I did my Elite 150 tank with Kreem and had zero problems. I used rubber stoppers from Ace Hardware to plug up the holes in my tank, and an old, sacrificial gas cap to seal the top. I did have to replace the in-tank filter screen though. I used a drill bit after the tank dried to remove the hardened sealer from the bottom hole, and the new screen slid right in.
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:48 PM   #10
kirkster70
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I wasn't trying to imply that Kreem is a bad product, but it is totally different than POR-15.

POR-15 is like a two-part epoxy and it cures and hardens and bonds well. It is meant to permanently seal pin holes.

Kreem is more like a flexible latex membrane, and stays flexible after curing. Much like lining the inside of your tank with a balloon.

Both are good products when applied properly.

I've had to fix two tanks that were Kreemed by previous owners. They could very well have rushed the steps and applied them incorrectly. The liner was peeling in large chunks.

I've spilled POR-15 the floor accidentally, and had to use a chisel to get it off the concrete floor. (after it had cured)
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