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Old 11-08-2010, 09:57 PM   #16
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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corbin's are 1" lower than stock and interfer with your legs when you stand. i sold mine because of this & bought a sargent.

sargents are stock height and do not have this interference. when ordering a sargent specify a topstitch on the fabric so it's smooth vrs the standard raised welt.
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:48 AM   #17
ShadyRascal
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Location: the Root, Western Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
who's doing that rear rack shelf?
That's something I drew up and had a buddy cut out on his water jet cutter, bent the lips on it and powder coated. He'd do another one if anyone was interested, I'd check and see what he needed for it if you want. I bolt it right to the Suzuki luggage rack.
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:57 AM   #18
SkunkWizard
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: "the Planet"
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A shameless plug for my friend Rocky
a ride in assures a seat fitted to "your" butt

Bill Mayer Saddles

http://billmayersaddles.com/october25homepage.html
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:47 PM   #19
bumblebee1
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Ottawa
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Had a Corbin but didn't like it.(too hard)

Bought one from Seat Concepts and love it.

Sold the corbin.
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:50 PM   #20
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Any seat is better than the stock torture rack. My Corbin has worked out well.
Newer ones look different than this one bought in '06. It's leather and quite firm. Took months to break in. I've done many 400 mile days, back to back.
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Old 11-25-2010, 02:01 PM   #21
mr openroad
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I would like to hear more about peoples experiences with the Seat Concepts seat.
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Old 11-25-2010, 04:42 PM   #22
sandwash
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Location: Flagstaff Az
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This was repadded and recover
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:24 PM   #23
greenlizard
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Chapin, SC
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I took delivery of the first Pro-Cycle/Saddlemen seat for the DR. I like it. Similar to the Corbin in that it needs a bit of break-in. After about 500 miles it is now quite comfortable and basically goes unnoticed. It is wider in the area I actually sit on, yet fairly narrow in the front so as to not interfere with standing. It does not have a grippy top surface and at first I wasn't sure I'd like the slightly slippery feeling. After some miles, though, I find being able to slide up and back is better than being anchored in one place. YMMV. I am pleased with the seat and would buy another.



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Old 11-28-2010, 09:12 AM   #24
Krusty ... OP
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Some have found relief from the stock seat with the Stearns ATV cushion, often referred to as the Walmart pad, although they are available at many outlets. At around $18, it's far cheaper than most other options. Reviews are mixed.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stearns-Bl...Cover/10727537

Some have found relief from adding a sheepskin cover to the seat. Companies such as Alaska Leather sell sheepskin pads cut to fit dirtbike seats. Deluxe-http://www.alaskaleatheronline.com/s...-Deluxe/Detail
Rally Special- http://www.alaskaleatheronline.com/s...e--dsh-/Detail
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Old 12-25-2010, 06:48 PM   #25
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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I have mostly found my bike seats too low stock, being 6'3" or so. On my DR I got and XT600 seat form the wrecker for $20 and removed the foam. After removing the DR cover, I used some tools to turn it into a saddle for the stock foam. Sharp knifes, including an electric carving knife and coarse sanding stuff works. I then got my local upholsterer to add a strip around the stock cover so it fits. He then added a strip to my sheepskin too, with a return on the edge which has a length of elastic cord in it so it comes on and off easy.

Doing it this way allows you to test and trim, and glue bits back if you trim too far, and get it just right for you.

I have some pics of this process from when I did my Berg seat if interested. The finished DR seat can be seen by clicking the link in my signature. Cheapest way to get a great result, especially if a taller seat is your objective.

Steve
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:08 AM   #26
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post15002116
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:56 AM   #27
kobudo28
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Location: New Hampster. Live, Freeze and Ride.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenlizard View Post
I took delivery of the first Pro-Cycle/Saddlemen seat for the DR. I like it. Similar to the Corbin in that it needs a bit of break-in. After about 500 miles it is now quite comfortable and basically goes unnoticed. It is wider in the area I actually sit on, yet fairly narrow in the front so as to not interfere with standing. It does not have a grippy top surface and at first I wasn't sure I'd like the slightly slippery feeling. After some miles, though, I find being able to slide up and back is better than being anchored in one place. YMMV. I am pleased with the seat and would buy another.



I picked up a 97 DR650 late this fall and I have bought this seat for it as well. I am anxious to try it out this spring.

I had a Corbin on my Wee and did not like the width at all. Not being blessed with long legs, I found the width splayed my legs out so far when I stopped that it was actually painful.
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:29 AM   #28
Kranked
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Location: northern Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 37
Talking ProCycle Saddlemen Gel foam & cover kit

I replaced the stock seat with the ProCycle Saddlemen Gel foam & cover kit for $165 USD from Procycle.us just a few days ago. http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html

I ordered it Thursday before Easter weekend and received it Tuesday after Easter weekend, shipped from Oregon to northern Ontario. USPS is much, much more efficient than the Canadian postal service in my experience. Also bought the Powermadd 2" handlebar risers from ProCycle but that review will be for another thread.

The seat kit comes without instructions but it's pretty obvious what you have to do to change the seat foam & cover. [Edit: Procycle states on their website: "Just stretch on the cover and staple it in place."]

The bike before the seat install but after the Powermadd 2" handlebar riser install.


Arrival of 2" Powermadd handlebar risers (small box) & gel/foam seat cover kit (bag)


Comparison: Seat kit vs stock seat on stock seat pan


After pulling the stock seat off the bike I used a tiny flathead screwdriver to remove the old staples from the seat pan, and also removed the metal L brackets that anchor the seat pan to the bike. After fitting the new seat to the seat pan I used a staple gun to affix it to the seat pan - it didn't take more than a half hour from start to finish. If you can recruit another set of hands to help stretch the seat vinyl it will go much faster. I put the stock metal L brackets back on the seat pan and wrenched it back on the bike. I added blue threadlocker to the threads holding the metal L brackets. After owning a 2008 KLR650, that everything rattled off of... the rule is if it's a single cylinder motorcycle and it has threads on it - all threads get blue threadlocker.

New seat kit stapled to old pan


After shot


Close up


Fit and finish of the seat kit is quite good. Looks great. Only had a chance to go for a quick 20 minute ride after installation. The seat surface is a bit slippery, I like that. The front of the seat at the tank junction is slightly wider than the stock seat and is slightly lower than the stock seat. I can touch the ground a bit better with my feet than I could with the stock seat. [Keep in mind I have a 31.5" inseam and Kenda Trakmaster knobbie tires] The new seat is noticeably dished at the front (compared to stock) sliding you towards the tank, which will be a bonus when trail riding, when not standing on the footpegs. On even, flat ground, like the street, I only have to shift my body back slightly to stay where the seat is wider, the extra butt support is certainly welcome. The seat feels hard but supportive to my posterior since the seat is brand new - I know it will require a break in period for it to soften some. Also my twig and berries are happier since they don't feel slammed into the front of the seat anymore.

I'll edit this post to add more info once the seat has been suitably tested. All in all a necessary (for me), inexpensive upgrade for $165 USD and a little of my own labour.

Thanks ProCycle & Saddlemen.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:56 PM   #29
Adv Grifter
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You didn't mention the process regards removing the old, original foam from the stock seat pan. Was it glued on? Hard to peel off? So ... essentially ... you left out the whole middle of the installation.

Also, did you not GLUE down the new Pro Cycle foam to the pan .... or does it just sit there, held by the cover staples only?

I'm thinking its very good the new foam is stiff to start off. It will definitely break in ... and if it's proper seat foam it won't clap out after a year of use like the junk foam does. Let us know!
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:11 PM   #30
Kranked
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Location: northern Ontario, Canada
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Wicked Oops forgot the glue!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
You didn't mention the process regards removing the old, original foam from the stock seat pan. Was it glued on? Hard to peel off? So ... essentially ... you left out the whole middle of the installation.

Also, did you not GLUE down the new Pro Cycle foam to the pan .... or does it just sit there, held by the cover staples only?

I'm thinking its very good the new foam is stiff to start off. It will definitely break in ... and if it's proper seat foam it won't clap out after a year of use like the junk foam does. Let us know!
I'm glad you mentioned that. The old, original foam from the stock seat pan was barely glued on, a little across the back and a spot or two down the sides. It took a few gentle tugs to pull the old foam off the seat pan. So little glue was used on the old seat that I figured it wouldn't matter, for a bit, if I didn't add any to the new seat until I saw/tested the finished product. Not using glue would allow me to easily adjust the seat in the future, should it be needed. I doubt it will ever be need to be adjusted. After some real world, light and non-destructive future testing it would be very easy to pull staples & cover, add glue between seat foam and pan then re-staple, but I have an easy way to apply the glue without tearing things apart (read below). The new seat vinyl is stretched tightly (perfectly?) over the foam/pan and my overabundant/liberal use of staples should keep it tacked down well. The pan also fits into small foam ridges down the sides of the seat & under a flap of vinyl at the top of the seat which will help keep it from shifting. Should have taken a close up photo of those but didn't. I intend to check on the staples periodically and watch for any foam shift. Hasn't shifted in 20 minutes of use... road, highway and light off-roading.


I was paranoid I was going to bugger something up so I avoided making anything permanent, didn't use any glue between the cover and foam. I've readied/riggedup a syringe with IV tubing to stick up between the foam and seat pan to apply glue when/if needed, so I don't have to tear anything apart. [Edit: Procycle states on their website: "Just stretch on the cover and staple it in place."]

Thanks ADV Grifter.

[Edit: photos/ After 200+ kms of riding on the new seat I'm liking it even more, what a difference compared to stock. No shifting of the cover or seat foam, everything's in the same place]

Above: old stock Suzuki foam and small, flathead screwdriver used to remove staples
Below: new ProCycle foam seat kit with cover - not yet installed on old Suzuki seat pan


Evil, old stock Suzuki seat foam without seat pan and old, not-so-evil cover
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2009 Suzuki DR650 - Black
*Barkbusters w/ Storm handguards *SW-Motech bash plate *SW-Motech rear rack *Procycle Saddlemen Gel Foam Seat *Powermadd 2" handlebar risers
SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX

Kranked screwed with this post 05-07-2011 at 11:05 AM
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