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Old 05-18-2011, 06:14 PM   #556
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85
I think I might screw around with that these guys are using:

http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/view...hp?f=53&t=7933

Seems almost too simple, but worth a trip to the electronics store.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:52 PM   #557
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85
So, always one to add information..... I realized this morning that my carbs had no rubber boots on the tops where the cable goes in. First time I even thought of it, and those of you who have followed my progress have seen me bang my head against the wall trying to get the bike to idle. Anyways, I made some boots for the tops and fired the bike up. The idle immediately went through the roof, and it runs like shit now. But, I think I may be onto something..... and it might just run like shit due to the weak battery I discovered. At least ALL the vacuum leaks are sealed now, the throttle snaps shut like a trap for a change too.
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:19 PM   #558
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85
Ok, well I raised the needles again after going ahead and installing the rectifier the other guys were talking about ($12.99 at the electronics store). Bike idles mostly and I have a throttle again. I realized that along with doing the carb top boots I lowered the needles thinking I was running rich, and I was too pissed off over the way the bike ran last night to even realize I was starving it for fuel. Next up is another rewire so I can turn the lights right off with a big toggle to save on the charging system. Old bikes are fun..... Anyways, the rectifier is indeed the same as what the oregon rectifiers are, so it's a cheap and easy upgrade to the charging system. Easy install too, yellow and brown to the AC pins, battery to the positive pin, and just make a ground to the battery for the negative pin. These things are way smaller than our orange ones and you can put them just about anywhere. The one I got is rated for 25A at 400v, should be plenty. Go for it people....
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:35 PM   #559
.fisher
pissin' in the wind
 
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Columbus OH
Oddometer: 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler Weirdo View Post
Nice Bike! Have you checked the ignition switch? It has like three positions on it, and one of them makes the lights come on. Mine didn't have a switch so I put in another one and rewired at the plug so the lights come on when the key is on all the time. If I remember the white wire in the harness is for the taillight, brown is for the headlight, they are on the same circuit. There is a CB160 wiring diagram on here somewhere that lays it out, that's how I got mine going. Actually wait a minute...


There you go. Oh, I also wired mine so the second set of charging coils are on all the time, figured I might as well what with the lights being on and having indicators on the bike now. I charge at between 12.5-13v. Not a whole lot but enough to get by. I only have two wires coming out of my ignition switch (it is from a CL175), the rest of the changes I did at the ignition switch plug with spades so it would be reversible. Oh yeah. check your grounds.... there is one inside the headlight (green wire) and the headlight switch just grounds to the bars I think.
Thanks for the wiring diagram, and kind words. I've enjoyed watching your CL come to life in the thread! Gonna try to work on mine tonight, hopefully I can work out this bug with some of your input.
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:04 PM   #560
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85
Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by .fisher View Post
Thanks for the wiring diagram, and kind words. I've enjoyed watching your CL come to life in the thread! Gonna try to work on mine tonight, hopefully I can work out this bug with some of your input.
Wow, thanks man. I am glad some people got a kick out of watching all my half assery turn into something semi cool looking. I am sure some of my posts and pics left people laughing. And of course, if I can add to the wealth of information on the internet all the better. I will let you know how my own rewire goes. Good luck on yours man!!
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:37 PM   #561
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85


Ok guys, I need some ideas here. First off, new rectifier works flawless, so we all know we can pull off that cheap upgrade. I need some input as to why the hell my bike keeps flooding and dying out. Still won't really idle right, lower the needles and it won't hardly run at all, raise them to the center clip and it runs than floods out and quits. I have sealed all the vacuum leaks, the float height I think is correct, ignition is new, have set the valves, etc. It seems to be happening on the right cylinder. Oh yeah, it starts on the first kick with no choke so I know it is rich at idle, but dropping the needles doesn't change that. How does the airscrew deal work? Can I try lowering the needle on just one carb? Any ideas? I am stumped.

Regards,

Weirdo

Scrambler Weirdo screwed with this post 05-19-2011 at 07:34 PM
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:46 PM   #562
Marco Moto
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: surrounded by the Great Lakes
Oddometer: 1,141
Thumb carbs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler Weirdo View Post


Ok guys, I need some ideas here. First off, new rectifier works flawless, so we all know we can pull off that cheap upgrade. I need some input as to why the hell my bike keeps flooding and dying out. Still won't really idle right, lower the needles and it won't hardly run at all, raise them to the center clip and it runs than floods out and quits. I have sealed all the vacuum leaks, the float height I think is correct, ignition is new, have set the valves, etc. It seems to be happening on the right cylinder. Oh yeah, it starts on the first kick with no choke so I know it is rich at idle, but dropping the needles doesn't change that. How does the airscrew deal work? Can I try lowering the needle on just one carb? Any ideas? I am stumped.

Regards,

Weirdo

Hey Weirdo,
I have been lurking and enjoying your build as well, I like both fancy stuff and more simple things as well, so we're on the same page here.

Your carb issue kinda sounds to me like a float valve not closing properly or a leaky float. Have you noticed if the floats get gas inside? You have to remove the floats and shake them, if there's gas in them you either dry them out and solder them or replace them altogether.

Also make sure you adjust the float height to the correct specs, it cannot be guessed.

...oh, yea the needle only matters off idle.

Keep up the good work, with a bit of patience you'll get it running right!


Marco.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:22 PM   #563
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoPolo View Post
Hey Weirdo,
I have been lurking and enjoying your build as well, I like both fancy stuff and more simple things as well, so we're on the same page here.

Your carb issue kinda sounds to me like a float valve not closing properly or a leaky float. Have you noticed if the floats get gas inside? You have to remove the floats and shake them, if there's gas in them you either dry them out and solder them or replace them altogether.

Also make sure you adjust the float height to the correct specs, it cannot be guessed.

...oh, yea the needle only matters off idle.

Keep up the good work, with a bit of patience you'll get it running right!


Marco.
Cool man, thanks for the props. I know you are one of the guys that have been around since the beginning when I couldn't even post pics. Much appreciated.

The floats are solid, I have had them out and check for leaks. The float valves are good too, one had a small ridge that I polished out and they both seal. I have kinda been guessing at the float height... Can I measure it with the carbs on? School me.
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Old 05-20-2011, 05:08 AM   #564
Marco Moto
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: surrounded by the Great Lakes
Oddometer: 1,141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler Weirdo View Post
I have kinda been guessing at the float height... Can I measure it with the carbs on? School me.

nope, you have to get them out... again! I know, right? PITA, but it has to be done. remove the carbs and check with a caliper, I do have the specs in the manual at home, but i believe you could find them with a little online search, if not, let me know and I'll look it up.
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:29 AM   #565
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoPolo View Post
nope, you have to get them out... again! I know, right? PITA, but it has to be done. remove the carbs and check with a caliper, I do have the specs in the manual at home, but i believe you could find them with a little online search, if not, let me know and I'll look it up.
It idles!!!! Number one, thanks Marco. I didn't measure the height the way I was supposed to... but I did lower the float just a bit and that took care of the flooding. THe other part turned out to be very interesting. Time and again have seen people post that you need to put the slides in facing the right way, with the ramp on the correct side. Well, duh, thats pretty easy..... after finding another thread on here about a CL175 that didn't run I learned that there is ANOTHER ramp on the slide, on the bottom and it faces toward the throat. Somehow either I or the PO had flipped the slides from side to side. So, while they fit that little ramp on the bottom was facing backwards. Explains why I had to put the idle screws all the way in to raise the idle, and why is was so eractic after setting it. Fucks sake.. I never would have found it if it wasn't for that other thread. Flipped the slides, lowered the float... idles like a champ now. And rides a whole lot better. Seems to have a small miss still, but I think another set of plugs will cure that. I have to take the seat off to look at some wiring so I will post pics of the rectifier, etc when I do. Thanks for the input Marco, it got my bike rideable.... Hell Yeah!!!
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:56 AM   #566
Marco Moto
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: surrounded by the Great Lakes
Oddometer: 1,141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler Weirdo View Post
It idles!!!! Number one, thanks Marco. I didn't measure the height the way I was supposed to... but I did lower the float just a bit and that took care of the flooding. THe other part turned out to be very interesting. Time and again have seen people post that you need to put the slides in facing the right way, with the ramp on the correct side. Well, duh, thats pretty easy..... after finding another thread on here about a CL175 that didn't run I learned that there is ANOTHER ramp on the slide, on the bottom and it faces toward the throat. Somehow either I or the PO had flipped the slides from side to side. So, while they fit that little ramp on the bottom was facing backwards. Explains why I had to put the idle screws all the way in to raise the idle, and why is was so eractic after setting it. Fucks sake.. I never would have found it if it wasn't for that other thread. Flipped the slides, lowered the float... idles like a champ now. And rides a whole lot better. Seems to have a small miss still, but I think another set of plugs will cure that. I have to take the seat off to look at some wiring so I will post pics of the rectifier, etc when I do. Thanks for the input Marco, it got my bike rideable.... Hell Yeah!!!

Nice! Now get out there and ride the snot out of it! (bring a screwdriver with you though, you're gonna have to adjust those air screws...).

Cheers!
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Old 05-20-2011, 07:05 PM   #567
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcoPolo View Post
Nice! Now get out there and ride the snot out of it! (bring a screwdriver with you though, you're gonna have to adjust those air screws...).

Cheers!
I just swapped the plugs and rode all over the place for hours!! Going to do a plug chop tomorrow, but the bike feels great throughout the whole band. And it IDLES at a stop now, so I can expand my circle rather than riding around unused streets hoping I don't stall out at a stop sign. The bike sounds entirely different now too for some reason.... And, wonder of wonders, I need to use the choke to start it. Yes!!! Anyways, some updates...

I needed something to use for tank badges. I intend to get some Honda wing decals at some point, but the dollar store again yielded up something useful....



Also here is a pic of the $12.99 rectifier. I know I go on about clean wiring, but I wasn't able to weld a mounting tab in on the day that I installed it, so it is what is is for now. I tested the battery after riding and it is at 12.5v with the bike turned off after riding and using all the lights. I think I am going to do some LED bulbs in there to lower the draw, but at least I know it can stay charged now. I would prefer to see 13-13.5v at the battery at rest, but 12.5 will do for now. You can see the big fat ground to the battery I added in there.



And a random working on the bike pic.



Idle!!!
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:55 PM   #568
mike-s
2 squeaky wheels
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Sydney, Aus
Oddometer: 609
b.t.w I would have gone and put a small heat sink on that rectifier just to make sure it doesn't overheat. There's a hole through the middle of those things for a reason.
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:35 PM   #569
Scrambler Weirdo
Espresso Racer
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Somewhere in Ontario
Oddometer: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-s View Post
b.t.w I would have gone and put a small heat sink on that rectifier just to make sure it doesn't overheat. There's a hole through the middle of those things for a reason.
Agreed, well whenever I get that mounting tab made for it..... right now it has quite a bit of air cooling, so that should keep it for a while. Tab is in the to do list though.... Maybe a small chipset heatsink as well. I should put my hand on it after a ride come think of it. Hmmm....
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:34 PM   #570
mike-s
2 squeaky wheels
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Sydney, Aus
Oddometer: 609
Another suggestion is to use a peice of metal attached to the frame, but use mica washers between the rectifier and the peice of metal being used as a heat sink on the frame. If you do this don't forget to put washers under the head of the bolt/the nut as well just to make doubly sure there's no electrical contact between the two.
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