KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

[Zwoehr]

How old is the battery? My Duke had the same problem when the battery was almost dead. I raised the needle one clip and replaced the battery at the same time so I'm not sure which solved it but everything is back to normal now.

Originally Posted by frdbronco8

I posted this last fall on the BST 40 section but I have since replaced the carb with two others with the same results and so I feel I can rule that out.

My 99 LC4 E starts fine and runs good when cold. After its warmed up fully and ridden around a little it starts to stumble at idle and occasionally die. Especially if you try to feather the clutch and go slow but it also does it just sitting there in nuetral. It starts right up each time after it dies but then does it again right away (assuming its stull warm). When I let it sit for a while it starts to run normal but quickly begins the stumble again (as it gets warmed up faster since it didn't sit long enough to become completely cold). Im thinking it has to be electrical. The plug is new and I just cut the tip off the plug wire and screwed the cap back on with no results.

Anyone experience the same thing? Im am all ears.

Or does anyone wanna buy this bike as is for a discount in the Seattle area?

[laramie LC4]

Originally Posted by frdbronco8

Im going to try to check the coil(s) tonight. Laramie posted what the ohms should be for me on TT. I have never done this and dont even know where to put the meter to test. Anyone have pictures?

just read the pig tails coming out of the coil. it's easy, the blue/white wire is obvious, use the green as a ground or any other good ground. the "ignition wire" is your plug wire.

since this happens when the bike is warm i would be concerned that you may get diff results cold.

in the mean time, i would be looking at every single connector plug and every wire. i know its hard to check all the wires without stripping the bike but do your best. pay close attention to anything that is close to the engine or exhaust.

good luck,

laramie

[frdbronco8]

Originally Posted by laramie LC4

just read the pig tails coming out of the coil. it's easy, the blue/white wire is obvious, use the green as a ground or any other good ground. the "ignition wire" is your plug wire.

since this happens when the bike is warm i would be concerned that you may get diff results cold.

in the mean time, i would be looking at every single connector plug and every wire. i know its hard to check all the wires without stripping the bike but do your best. pay close attention to anything that is close to the engine or exhaust.

good luck,

laramie

I keep getting all 000 on my multimeter. Dont really know what Im doing though as there are multiple setting on the meter for ohms. they all seem to read 000 when I touch the wires from the blue/white to the ground. This is with the bike off and cold.

[frdbronco8]

Theres another canister thats orange on the right side of the head with a yellow/red and a brown wire coming out of it that came loose one time and hit the head pipe. I put it back but it got hot would this be something related?

[laramie LC4]

Originally Posted by frdbronco8

Theres another canister thats orange on the right side of the head with a yellow/red and a brown wire coming out of it that came loose one time and hit the head pipe. I put it back but it got hot would this be something related?

this is a little more complex, you will need some alligator clips and a test lamp to do this. if the capacitor is bad, it could certainly cause some issues.

laramie

[frdbronco8]

Sweet, running out to the garage to do this now! I assume the bike has to be running and in my case probably warmed up for this test to be accurate? I may have to run a lead under the tank to the green/white wire to be able to test it while running since it is all hidden under the tank and whatnot....

[frdbronco8]

Originally Posted by frdbronco8

Sweet, running out to the garage to do this now! I assume the bike has to be running and in my case probably warmed up for this test to be accurate? I may have to run a lead under the tank to the green/white wire to be able to test it while running since it is all hidden under the tank and whatnot....

Ok scratch that, I just read on my meter that the power is supposed to be off to the tested unit. I tested the capacitor with positive results. The coil however Im am not sure of.

0,425-0,575 (is that the same as .425-.575 on the meter?) When I set the meter to the 200 range it reads .7 Any other setting on the meter and it reads 000.
The coil to plug wire give me a no read indicating no matter what setting its on. (On my meter its a 1 at the front of the display, same as when the leads are held apart and not touching anything).

[jonnyw]

Anybody got one setup on a ADV or any LC4? I was wondering about the side straps. Or if anyone can finda some pics. thanks

[mr. matteeanne]

Where can I buy "dash lights", neutral etc? On a 1997 Duke 620e?

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by ericswede

Check the valves too, I read somewhere it can be the issue if the LC4 dies or is hard to start when hot

+1

Check Creeper's valve lash inspection thread discussion; after my first inspection he asked me that very question.

[fastdadio]

0,425-0,575 (is that the same as .425-.575 on the meter?) When I set the meter to the 200 range it reads .7 Any other setting on the meter and it reads 000.


Yes. 200 will usually be the lowest range. Anything over 200 ohms will be infinity. In the 200 range on your meter, touch the test leads together and note the value. subtract that value from the reading you got from the coil. The test leads themselves have a resistance value which must be subtracted to get the true value of the coil.

[laramie LC4]

Originally Posted by matteeanne

Where can I buy "dash lights", neutral etc? On a 1997 Duke 620e?

i wired in my own LED's that i got from an electrical suppply store. works like a charm, very durable, and dont burn out. the only catch is you have to wire in diodes if you want the "blinker" indicator to work in both directions. pretty simple process though. if you need i can post a schematic of what you need to do.

here is what mine look like, i completely removed the speedo (i use the GPS) and then built an aluminum bracket to hold the lights.



laters,

laramie

[laramie LC4]

Originally Posted by frdbronco8

0,425-0,575 (is that the same as .425-.575 on the meter?) When I set the meter to the 200 range it reads .7 Any other setting on the meter and it reads 000.
The coil to plug wire give me a no read indicating no matter what setting its on. (On my meter its a 1 at the front of the display, same as when the leads are held apart and not touching anything).

yes, 0,425 is the same as 0.425 ohms. as for your settings im not sure, my multimeter does all that shit for me, i just have 1 ohm setting.

remove the ignition wire and read off the coil, see if that changes the numbers. you may have a bad plug wire.

laramie

[frdbronco8]

Thanks all for the info, I will check the plug wire tonight. If i get the same results I believe I will be ordering a coil. Looks like about 85 bucks on Bikebandit.

[laramie LC4]

Originally Posted by frdbronco8

Thanks all for the info, I will check the plug wire tonight. If i get the same results I believe I will be ordering a coil. Looks like about 85 bucks on Bikebandit.

you can get it cheaper on ktmtalk through Munn racing. i just checked....

laramie